This route ascends the steep, west-facing wall just up and right from

Charon's Boat

. Start a short distance up the gully at a big block with a J-shaped tree.

Climb straight out of the gully via sidepulls and gain a series of underclings. The steep initial moves may be avoided by stemming across from a huge block to clip the second bolt. This is a pretty good route either way.

Knight of Swords

Charon's Boat

Dragon Direct

Sorcerer's Apprentice

Merlin's Enigma

Hike to the Wall of the Goddess on the Third Tier of Avalon. Continue around to the east and descend slightly to a gully full of boulders. Identify two obvious dihedrals capped by a roof. The route ascends the right side of the arete just right of the right dihedral, about 30 feet right of Mystery Ship.

Climb straight up past two bolts, then finger traverse left (very cool).  Stretch up and clip the third bolt, then work straight up to a tiny stance with a 2-bolt anchor.  Lower off.

Look for 2 bolts up and right from the

Knight of Swords

.  Make steep moves past the bolts, then cruise on gear to a 2-bolt ring anchor near the top.  One may also continue to the beautiful ledge at the top of the ramp that runs along the Wall of the Dragon.

I had a sling with a good locking carabiner around a tree here so you could rappel back into the gully, but some assohole ripped it off.  I thought this was Avalon in Boulder Canyon, but maybe it's just another Third World country.  You park your car for a little while and when you come back the wheels are gone, the battery's gone, the spare tire and jack are gone, and the clothes you left in the back are gone.  Oh, and the seats are gone too.  The next thing you know, we'll have rigged elections.

This fun little route ascends the west-facing wall behind  the Wall of The Goddess buttress.  Approach as for Wall of The Goddess, then continue around (east) to the boulder gully at the bottom of

Charon's Boat

.  Hike to the top of the gully and turn left.

Step left from a flat block and climb excellent rock to the top of the wall.  It is possible to climb past the 2-ring anchor and belay from a tree on the ledge beneath the Wall of The Dragon.

Hike to the Wall of the Goddess on the ledge above the second tier of Avalon.  Continue around to the east and descend slightly to a gully full of boulders.  Identify two obvious dihedrals capped by a roof.  The route ascends the right dihedral, maybe 5 feet left of Charon's Boat and joins that route above the roof.

Stem straight up the V-shaped dihedral past two bolts, then power right to good holds on the arete (very cool). Stretch up and clip the third bolt, then crank straight up past one more bolt and gain a tiny stance with a 2-bolt anchor.  Lower off.

Description

Protection

Routes in West Gully