Just to the right of the face with the Keyhole crack problems there is a small covered alcove with a crack running up and right in the back to where it meets a horizontal crack below a low roof.  There are two overlapping problems:  the Gill Pinch Roof, and Larsen's Problem. 

  For Gill Pinch, start with your hands in the crack, and reach out to the two black stained pinches at the left lip of the roof (dont use the left wall of the alcove, it is off).  Use the higher pinch to reach the good handhold and undercling two feet above the lip.  Get your feet up and reach way right.  Shift your weight and work up to the horizontal 7 feet above the left.  Traverse off right in order to descend. 

  Is there a move on this problem that isnt completely incredible?  A very satisfying send, and when youre done, get on Dirty White Boys and Puerto Ricans which starts at the same spot. 

Gill Pinch Roof

Keyhole Offwidth

Stacious

Keyhole Crack Left

Keyhole Crack Right

Winter's Agony

Clune Crank

Larsen's Problem

Gill Crack (AKA The Brat Gill Variation)

Cronin Face

Three Fools

Dirty White Boys and Puerto Ricans

The Gill Egg (AKA Gill's Route)

Dr V

Start on the giant crack under Gill Pinch Roof (GPR). Reach out to holds on the lip of the roof and then dyno to a good edge, like GPR. From that point it differs from GPR: go left to a bad sidepull, bump left higher, then right to another bad sidepull. The top is a high jug straight up. Traverse along the horizontal crack to the right to downclimb.

According to the grey Dick guide to the Trapps, this goes at 5.7 as a trad climb.  While I wished I had a nice #4 above me, I was very glad that I wasnt wearing my steel skirt.  I found this problem considerably more difficult than Keyhole Left and Keyhole Right, which Dick rates as 5.9 and 5.9+.  Climb the 4 wide off-width crack to the horizontal 15 feet up and traverse off left or drop.  Use the chock stone, a chicken wing, a foot jam or levitation to get to the top and remember its only 5.7.

Climb the left-hand arete of the Clune Crank boulder.  Start at the small upward and right facing edge that leads to the horizontal.  Work up the arete to the top out.  Avoid the tree.

Climb the Y shaped system of cracks 10 feet to the right of the Clune Crank boulder to the horizontal.  Traverse off left.  Dick Williams lists this as the 5.9 G variation 2 of the Keyhole in the grey Trapps guide.

Climb the left leaning finger crack 5 feet to the right of Keyhole Crack Left to the horizontal 12 feet up.  Traverse off left.  Dick Williams lists this as the 5.9+ G variation 1 of the Keyhole in the grey Trapps guide. 

  This is an absolutely great problem.  If you only do one of the three Keyhole problems, dont miss this one. 

Start on the big chalked jugs, move up with leg/heal trickery to climb to the jug that is straight up and slightly right.  Very thin, razor edge like holds, but good and balancy. Surrounding cracks are "off", if you care about that sort of thing (easier if used).

The Clune Crank is a great little warm up with some fun moves up the face of a boulder.  Start at the horizontal 4 feet up the boulder to the right center, move up onto the holds on the face and shoot for the top.

Larsen's problem is sometimes confused with the considerably harder Gill Pinch Roof. It climbs the roof just to the right of the climber in the picture, right where the spotter's hands seem to be. 

  Start on the slab under the roof to the right of the crack where the Gill Pinch begins. Reach up and grab the flake right by the climber's right foot in the picture, and then climb straight up from there, ending up at the same handhold the climber is reaching for in the picture.

Starting from the low horizontal, undercling, jam and lunge your way up the left-arching crack at the far right-hand side of the keyhole cliff face.  Holds continue above the crack and on the right-hand face to a dark hold 17 feet off the deck.  Traverse off right and down climb the slabby face (very carefully) or drop to your pad.  It's done.

The Cronin Face is a thin cranking master piece of a problem. Located in between Keyhole Offwidth and the Gill Crack. Power through back to back gaston moves to a high final dead point. Hit the jug, and down climb the tree. 

  This was one of my favorites.

Start with your hands on the thin crimps a the lip of the roof.  Use a few higher crimps and a shallow dish (crux) to move up and right to a big pocket.

Are all of John Gill's routes this good, or did he have the good sense to only attach his name to the classics? I guess it doesn't matter; as is the case with the other problems that bear his name in this area, this is a must do. Start on the rock below the egg. Work your hands up to the small incut holds on the lip of the egg. Climb to the top. If only it were that easy!

Start with your hands in the shallow slot under a very small roof.  Move directly up through roof to top out or traverse left and up, both variations are easy.

The Keyhole area is the first band of cliff that you find directly abutting the Undercliff Road as you walk north from the Trapps bridge.  There are a number of great warm-ups intermingled with classic not-to-be-missed problems.  Named for the 5.7 trad off-width crack climb and its two variations (5.9, 5.9+), all three of which are worthwhile V0s.  Highlights in the area include the               

Sticking the toss on The Gill Egg      , Clune Crank (V1), Gill Crack (V2),               

Tyler at the crux of Dirty White Boys and Puerto Ricans (V7).       and the Gill Pinch Roof (V4).

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Keyhole Cliff area