This is an intricate route, completely different in character than the others on the DC boulder.  Start out by climbing the arete for a move or two to gain the slabby face.  From here, climb up moving left, then right, finding a sequence to link good holds on a thin face.  Above the 4th bolt, you'll hit the crux.  You can go straight up or go a bit left then up to reach the 5th bolt.  After this, make use of the slanting crack to reach the 6th bolt and shuts.  This climb is much better than it appears!  It would greatly benefit from more traffic to keep it clean.  Certainly worth doing, especially since it stays in the shade all day in the summer.

Spider Needs a Thesaurus (Dinosaurus Clitoris)

Pro-Vision

The Route of All Evil

La La Land

Vaseline Vision

Angle of Attack

Power Outage

Climb On

Process of Elimination

All the Way Baby

Psycho Babble

Delayed Stress Syndrome

Skinny Legs

Climb the short arete to the chains.  Very interesting moves & fun climbing - the only problem is that it's not 500' taller!

Beware of the first moves - a fall off the deck could end badly (you have to step across a gap just shy of two feet wide - the gap has a short drop of no more than 8' but a boulder juts up inside of it...)  It's easy climbing, but the holds are unique and unlike most climbs at Summersville your back isn't to the water!

Climb the easy flake in the middle of the wall to the slopers above, pull a couple of very hard moves on bad slopers to gain the anchors of this climb.

When I got on this route it was the Summer of 05 and I was visiting my girlfriend (now finacee) in the NRG where she was guiding for the summer. We were finishing up at the Lake and I wanted to get on something challenging but not impossible so I asked where there wa a fun short overhanging 5.11, she said there where some on the DC Memorial Boulder. We headed over and she thought that the one in the center of the face with the very moderate looking flake for a start was an 11. I said OK and proceded to climb my up this climb until about 2/3 hieght I run smack into a seriously hard move off a sloper that to this day I can't move off of. We tried and tried the move off the sloper over and over but we couldn't pull off the sloper at all, truly a humbling experience to have on a climb that I though "wouldn't be that hard". Once I got down to the ground a climber and fellow guide came along named Chad Umbel and told us it was a 5.13 and "not a good one", the stare I gave Nuria was priceless, or so I'm told. I've tried the route since and I still can't do the move, maybe someday...

Start at the chalked up holds and get up to the flake. Looks a bit more straight forward than Process of elimination.

Climb the slabby face on the back right corner of DC Memorial Boulder. The top was full of lichen as-of Summer 2020 but the climb is still quite enjoyable.

Start on the large right facing dihedral, make the same starting moves as Delayed Stress Syndrome, clip  the 2nd and 3rd blts off the jug then rest. Out of the rest grab the horn, cross to an undercling, go big up to the mini-heuco, match, throw up and right and keep the pump at bay to clip the anchors way above your 3rd bolt.

Think the routes on the D.C. Boulder are a joke because of their diminutive stature?  Well There is nothing funny about Angle of Attack.  This route, short and insecure, is raging with Napoleon complex.  Its angry, really angry, and it will try to spit you off every chance it gets.

Travel up the 45 degree arete, slapping slopers with your left hand, heel hooking, and utilizing some nice pockets with your right hand.  A technical and commiting crux awaits you just below the anchor.  Take care in clipping the dicey third bolt.

It may be short, but its much more action packed than most 100' sport lines.

This is an overlooked line, despite the fact that everyone passes it en route to the Lake crags. If you can catch it when it's dry, it's a worthy outing. Save for one section at the no-hands, the rock quality is excellent, and the moves are great.

Begin with an engaging boulder problem to a no-hands rest, and then pass a couple overhangs before a distinct crux pulling up onto a face. Keep it together for the tricky section on iron-band holds to the anchors.

Start on sloping jugs under a sloping ledge, throw a high heel, lock off and use the crimps to gain the slopers on the ledge (1st crux), latch the crimp go up and right to a jug, then continue up the super pumpy flake to the top horn (2d crux) for a pumpy but easy anchor clip.

Start on jugs, make a couple of powerful moves up to the big sloper (or the finger lock to the left) then move up past a couple of crimps to the sloper to make hte last clip before the anchors. Make the crux move out right to the flake then either dyno to the top or match on the flake and go up.

This climb is one of my hardest yet, took one day of work to figure out the moves (there are a million sucker holds) then got it as my first climb without a warmup the next day. I love this climb, no tendon busters but crimps and big powerful moves.

On the vertical, right face of the boulder, when looking at the overhung wall that most of the routes are on. Start climbing past a left angling rail and jump right into a series of technical moves involving heels, hand-foot matches, and a fair bit of nimble finger work. Though it rarely sees much chalk, this is a great, sustained route and climbs rather well.

5.8 your way up the overhanging corner then out to the right(campus or crimp with heel-hooks) get into a sitting rest that is almost no-hands, then use the big undercling and crimps to continue up the corner making one stopper move tat with the right beta becomes easier. There is a jug above the anchor to make the clip...for the brave.

Cater rated this one 5.11a, but it is harder.

Skinny Legs is the epitome of power endurance climbing.  The line consists of twenty agressive moves without a single resting hold and takes you straight up the 35 degree angle wall.  The hand hold selection is one of the coolest around, highlighted by slopey pinches and two finger pockets.  The hardest moves are at the second bolt, but you may not notice since the route is so consistently difficult.  One last boulder problem, revolving around a demoralizing sloper, guards the anchor.  Clip the anchor from a right hand edge just below the lip of the boulder.  The route is quite condition dependent so do it during those two good weeks of weather we get each year.  The route gets morning Shade.

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Location

Protection

Routes in DC Memorial Boulder