An old route that has recently been retro fitted and cleaned. 1 aid pitch  (an old dead tree that was climbed) turned free and 2 new pitches make for a sustained 5.10/5.10+ route that goes up clean featured stone to the top of the Diamond.

P1: 5.6 Follow the left-trending crack.

P2: 5.10d Follow the corner to another ledge. Climb directly above the ledge pulling bouldery moves on bolts. Belay below the obvious corner in Hell Bent.

One could also climb the second pitch of Sabbra Cadabra to get to the Ledge (5.10).

P3: 5.10  Long, continuous left-facing dihedral. A stunner! Double rack from .75 to 3". A single .5 and #3 as well. The only gear you need after this pitch is a single rack to 2".

P4: 5.10 Straight up off the belay to two bolts. Right traverse to a dike.

P5: 5.10- Follow the beautiful leftward traversing dike.

P6: 5.10  Climb left out of the glory hole. Slightly cryptic climbing to start leads up good holds on steep white granite.

P7: 5.10 Climb easy terrain to a bolt. Follow the short corner to fun blocky overhung terrain to an out of this world exposed roof finish that sits over the whole wall! Very useful to extend the bolts to prevent rope drag.

Hell Bent for Glory

Dreamweaver

The Dark Crystal

Master of Reality

The Nug

Sabbra Cadabra

Nothing but Net

R. O. U. S.

A National Acrobat

Centerfold

Dog Fight

Megalomania

Hell Bent For Leather

The Black Radish

Nativity in Black

Earth's Clitoris

The Black Radish is an improbable, beautiful line that connects the thinnest features of the Diamond. A technical crimping masterpiece, with rock coarse enough for even the hottest days.

P1/2 - Climb P1 and 2 of Hell Bent

P3 - Climb the corner immediately left of Hell Bent. Easy traditionally protected climbing leads to a steep technical corner. Gear, Bolts 5.11a.

P4 - Start up the sloper rail and follow the bolt line out left. Outrageous climbing on thin edges, pinches and side pulls will bring you to the anchor. Bolts 5.11b.

P5 - Start off the anchor stemming and break right. Follow a rad symmetrical vertical triple seam into enjoyable face climbing. Gear, Bolts 5.10.

P6 - Dubbed the Sucker Fish, this pitch packs a punch. Pull off the ledge through a small overhang and it’s immediately game on. Big moves between small holds and some jaw dropping exposure bring you past the first 2 long crux sequences to a thank god rest ledge. One last crux on some bigger holds brings you to the chains! Bolts 5.11c.

Rap the line. It’s easiest to wrap straight down from the P5 anchors to the anchors for The Earth’s Clitoris. Although without too much struggle, you can rap the line exact.

Ascends the steep side of the huge rock leaning against the Diamond, then up the face. Crux is near the 3rd bolt.

Follows a flake-dihedral system to the left of the giant dihedral. First pitch is strenuous (11b), the second much easier (5.7), and the last one technical (11b).

Master of Reality is the roof crack to OW that breaks right at the fifth pitch of A National Acrobat.

P1-4: Climb A National Acrobat

P5: The Master

The Nug is a stunning overhung dihedral to a low angle slab. The dihedral is funky and strenuous with a crux reach to the lip and a mantle onto the easy slab above. It's simple to set up a toprope but I think it's preferable to lead this due to the sharp angle of the slab transition.

This route is short and could be done as a bold solo with a couple of crashpads and good spotters, but why?

A climb for the ages. Sabbra has everything from full pitch face splitters to blank slabs, cryptic face to beautiful corners. Linking this with Planet Caravan or Man in the Box on the Duck will be sure to not leave you wanting! The route dries very quick after the rain, there are 3 small seeps and can be climbed around without any issues. The route is climbable year round.

P1 5.6 : Climb the first pitch of Hell Bent for Glory.

P2 Most likely harder then 5.10+: Continue the first 15 ft of Hell Bent's 2nd pitch, break left at the bolt line. Bolts/Gear.

P3 5.11- : Above the belay, climb straight up to a traversing pitch of techy yet powerful climbing that leads to the base of the finger crack. Bolts/Gear

P4: 5.11- : Follow the long striking finger crack. Thin Gear

P5 5.10-: Start up the corner system and break right onto face climbing that leads to Eyelid Ledge. Bolts/Gear

P6 5.10+ : From the belay, follow a ramp and break through the left side of eyelid roof. Fun climbing on highly featured stone. One can skip the rap anchor and belay at the base of the corner on Lovely Lady Ledge. Bolts

P7 5.9 : Climb the corner. Break right at the roof and belay atop of the slab. Gear

P8 5.10 : Start up the overhung hand crack and pull the roof. Place small good cams and climb left into the face. Gear

A face route around the corner, left of Dark Crystal.

Ascends the gully/tunnel below the Dark Crystal.

A National Acrobat is beautiful route that connects The Diamond's most striking features. It is a physical journey that is sure to test all of you're granite skills.

P1 5.9: Climb R.O.U.S., a fun, dark bolted chimney.

P2 5.11: The fight begins. Start up the Dark Crystal (Seasonally wet, usually dries in early June), climb to where the original route breaks left. Instead, climb straight up, clip a bolt and pull the roof. A couple boulder moves lead to a pumpy hand traverse. Save a hand size piece of gear for the end.

P3 5.10: Climb the short tricky arête of the Dark Crystal. This could easily be linked into P4.

P4 5.12- (5.10+ A0): The pitch of eternal sadness. Break right from the ledge into a shallow right facing dihedral. After a somewhat moderate start, a short but devastatingly granite crux, followed by more easy climbing brings you into the Dihedral.

P5 5.11-: Dubbed the Book of Earth Mother, this pitch offers some of the best corner climbing Index has to offer. Perfect.

P6 5.11d: If the corner didn't get you giddy, this slightly overhung 40 meter pitch leads up the glorious Zebra Headwall. Discontinuous cracks, jugs, and a sloper crux is sure to grab your attention.

P7 5.0: Move belay up and right to the next anchor.

P8 5.11: Climb steep rock to a slab crux. Continue up the slab and pull the fat roof on sexy slopers.

P9 5.9: Fun climbing top's you out on the highest point of The Diamond.

"Just remember love is life and hate is living death. Treat your life for what it's worth and live for every breath. Looking back I've lived and learned, but now I'm wondering. Here I wait and only guess what this next life will bring"

One of the best moderate multi-pitch routes at Index.

P1: 11a. Start in an often wet left-facing flake-dihedral system, then at the 2nd bolt move left onto the face. An older variation went straight up from the 2nd bolt before going left, but a key hold broke off, making it significantly harder.

P2: 10d. Face moves to a corner.

P3: 10d. Short pitch to a ledge at the base of the long final dihedral. Crux face moves to easier moves over a roof.

P4: 10d. Follow the thin dihedral.

Can use one 70 m rope to rappel. Otherwise, use two ropes.

This route follows a dike on the right side of The Diamond. The pitch has cruxes stacked on top each other all the way to the belay, but one can find a good rest before each crux. Very cool face pitch.

P1: 10d -  Climb the first pitch of Centerfold/Sliding into First. Climb the face clipping bolts, the pitch traverses left at around the 60 ft mark.

P2: 10d - Clip the first 3 bolts of Centerfolds 2nd pitch. Where Centerfold starts veering right onto gear, trend slightly left and upward following the bolt line and perfect lower town wall style edges. This will wrap back around to the top of Centerfolds 2nd pitch anchor.

P3: 10b - A short pitch with some fun moves go out right and meet back up with the anchors for the 3rd pitch of Centerfold.

P4: 10d - Break onto the arête of Centerfold. Arête slap and heel hook up to an anchor on a great pedestal belay.

P5: 11a  Continue up the arête. Outrageous movement and position on this pitch.

The only bad thing here is there isn't the first two pitches complete yet. But you can reach it if you climb HBFG to the top then rap in.

A project eyed for years, NIB follows a stunning dyke system. The route has supreme face climbing that is not to be missed.

P1 5.9: Climb R.O.U.S., a fun, dark bolted chimney.

P2 5.11: The fight begins. Start up the Dark Crystal (Seasonally wet, usually dries in early June), climb to where the original route breaks left. Instead, climb straight up, clip a bolt and pull the roof. A couple boulder moves lead to a pumpy hand traverse. Save a hand size piece of gear.

P3 5.10: Climb the short tricky arête of the Dark Crystal.

P4 5.11d: Break left and follow the obvious rail. Techy, powerful and sustained climbing makes up this all time classic pitch.

P5 5.10-: A short catwalk move brings you into a chimney like feature.

P6 5.10-: Start in the chimney and follow your way up a perfect face climbing following dykes, knobs and jugs.

P7 5.7: A short pitch brings you to the ledge.

P8 5.10+: Follow the corner until it opens up into a hand crack through a roof. Straight in jam you're way up this beauty.

P9 5.8: Top the wall out on easy climbing.

Start on the first few bolts past the p3 crux of Sabbra. Vear right where sabbra breaks left and follow a faint dike/shallow rail straight up. The movement is wonderful and their are just enough holds to keep the line going. Fine crimping and highsteping! The crux is a deadpoint to a crimp about 3/4 way up.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Diamond