Climb 10ft right of the pillar, following the large chickenheads and crystals to the vertical cracks. From mid-station anchors, follow large crystals and bolts to the anchors

SGT Baker

Apollos Crack

American West

Things that Shouldn't be

American Life

Southbound Pachyderm

Green Ranger

Climb the hand crack past the dihedral to the bulge. At the bulge, go right and follow the series of vertical hand cracks to a ledge

Locate the wide crack on the right side of the wall (right of the large roof) 

  P1- Climb the wide crack, passing the first grassy ramp, and continue straight up the beautiful chimney. Set up a belay on the second grassy ledge (140') 

  P2- Move up the grassy ledge and step into another nice chimney with a crack in the back. Follow this to its end. Continue up and left to the summit. (80')

Work up through the lower schist bulges and trough, then up between the wide left crack and the thin right to left slanting seam.  The crux of the first pitch, which is a little deceptive, lies between bolts 6-8.  There is a two bolt hanging belay anchor just after the steep section.  The second pitch is much easier (5.7+).  Start up the unprotectable crack, clip a bolt, and work right onto the face.  Follow 6 more bolts and finish using the crack to the left (rather easy) to gain the final anchors.  The route can be descended with a single 60m rope using two rappels or a single double rope rappel. The route is best done in one pitch using 16 draws and the necessities for the final anchor.  This avoids the hanging belay.  The first pitch anchors are set-up well for a top rope if your party wants to just work the first pitch.  There is an optional walk-off off the back.  A belay from the second pitch achor is recommended to reach the final "gully" if choosing to walk off.

Best done as 1 full pitch (155ft), but it can be broken up in 2 using the mid route anchors. The climbing is sustained, but perfect for those looking to get into the 5.9 grade. I wouldn't say that there is a distinct crux... a little route finding goes a long way and trusting your feet is essential. If anything, going from the bolt before the mid route anchors to the bolt after the anchors is the crux. Great climbing on great features, get on it!

P1:5.11- Start by doing some weird moves past two bolts to gain a little right trending 15ft runout ramp to the third bolt. Its easy but climb carefully.  It gets cruxy getting past third, then is moderate past the next two bolts. After that place some small-medium cams in the right rising  cracks. There is very cool rock throughout this section. Clip one more bolt then scamper up the 5.7 crystal slab to the chains. 95  This pich starts out dirty but gets better and only worth 1 star.  But it gets you to the second 

  P2: 5.11- This thing is way cool.  Rap or down climb behind the giant flake that is the top of the first pitch. Then start up the thin cracks with very cool side pulls and insecure feet in between good hand/finger jam rests (5.10). When you hit the grungy roof at about 55 feet extend your slings and make very exposed face moves out right and start clipping bolts.  Getting past the second bolt is the bulgy thin crux. Continue on the killer crystal face (5.9) for a handful more bolts trending rightward till your on the beautiful ledge with the anchor. 115  The crack climbing is quite verified in style yet pretty sustained in difficulty. Very fun. Will become a 4 stars route with some more traffic. 

  Getting down: With a 70m you just rap twice.Knot your ends. We never tried a 60m rope from the top anchor but it should be extremely close. Be very carefull. 

Start by climbing the first 10 ft of SGT Baker. At first bolt make a hard right on solid patinas towards a bolt at the base of thin crack. Follow finger crack, past the bulge, and onto some fun face climbing. Bolted anchor up top. Super fun crux moves!!

Beautiful secluded area worth checking out.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Primal Wall Area