This is an adventurous summit route to the top of North Butte. Don't expect clean, Indian Creek style cracks on this climb as it has choss, soft rock, good rock, mud, and splitters. This climb NOT recommended for those seeking clean, aesthetic classic summit lines; however, it is recommended for those seeking solitude, adventure and some of most amazing scenery in Utah.

I do not recommend starting from the old yellow truck as that is a longer, steeper hike. Instead, park at the start of an old mining road leading up North Butte located at 38.6927, -110.9784 (~0.3-0.4 mile further up the road from the truck). Hike up the old mining road to the abandoned uranium mines on North Butte's southwest flank. From the mines, hike directly up talus to the base of North Butte's south-southwest face. Expect ~25-40 min hike.

Pitch 1 - 5.9, 100 feet

. Locating the start of the climb can be difficult. Try to eyeball the large ledge where pitch 2 starts. Begin up the cleanest crack that leads to the base of the right side of the large ledge. Start the climb 20 feet  up a crack then traverse 8 feet left to another crack system that leads to the ledge. This second crack can also be climbed directly from the ground but appears to have more loose rock. Watch for loose rock near the top of the pitch. Belay off bolts.

Pitch 1.5 – Class 3 100 feet

. From the bolts, scramble up the ledge (class 3) to the start of pitch 2 which has the obvious left facing dihedral.

Pitch 2 – 5.11 C1 PG-13 140-150 feet.

Traverse right on technical face to the dihedral where small gear and RPs protect this poorly (5.10 PG-13). A large questionable large block (we yarded on it pretty hard) guards the final 5 feet to the dihedral. Continue up the dihedral with a very hard layback that has slick feet to a small ledge (5.11). Now for the worst 40 feet of the climb. Climb up a crack with loose rock, so be careful, and enter a mud veneered, slick chimney. Battle the awkwardness to a small roof (C1). We could not free this but it will likely free at 5.11-5.11+ slick mud.  Now that you're fully covered in slime, your reward is 50 feet of amazing hands to a bolted belay.

Pitch 3 – 5.10 C1 135 feet

. From the belay, hard offwidth (C1 or 5.11-) leads to a a pod. Exit the pod through a roof and continue up the crack (5.10). Be careful of loose rock through this section. Near the top of the crack, veer right onto the face and climb below a large right facing dihedral to a bolted anchor.

From the bolted anchor, scramble to the tippy-top. The views are astonishing.

TWO

ropes are required to rappel the route.

Rap 1:

Rappel from the top of pitch 3 to the top of pitch 2 (~120 feet).

Rap 2:

Rappel from the top of pitch 2 to the ledge (~140-150 feet).

Rap 3:

Rappel from the anchors at the top of pitch 1 the ground (~100 feet).

Aspiring Meth Addicts

Ninja Tape Gloves Version 2.0

Echo Crack

Samurai Piton

Yellow Cake - Radiant Dihedral

Follow an obvious ever changing crack system to anchors.  It's still kinda dirty in the crack and the route still needs some cleaning, but is significantly cleaner than first ascent.  Multiple cruxes and very sustained.  Second pitch has two bolts to finish the route before the chains. First anchors are about 75 feet up and second anchors are about 160 feet up.   It ends just shy of the black streak about 25 feet below it.  First pitch has been freed at 5.11d, second pitch still needs red point.  My favorite first ascent in the Swell.

This Crack is located on North Butte, just above the old truck cab in Red's Canyon. You can barely see the crack from the road. It's very light colored sandstone, but is in the lighter colored area of rock. The approach is a burly hike. This one is wide, mostly off-width and overhung. The crack is dirty inside, but on solid rock. Would probably go free at 5.11d, but I haven't had a chance to try the red point again.

First Pitch goes at 5.11b, follow a thin crack with one piton to a nice ledge.  Then move from the ledge to an open book very thin crack with a piton in it (5.12b?).  This pitch finishes on a another great belay ledge.  Watch for rope drag when pulling the rope from this pitch. Finishes with a 5.11c off-width pitch. Rappel the route. I wore through one of my harness gear loops on this one, squirming in the off-width pitch.

This obscure butte/tower is between Tomsich Butte and Square Top on the east side of the Reds Canyon road (Park in a wash off the Reds Canyon road at 38.74205, -110.94416). Yellow Cake comes from the abundance of uranium mining in the area. The rock quality on this pitch is excellent and clean (kind of rare for the area) except for 8 feet of soft rock near the top. Expect a steep ~45 minute approach.

The route begins on the northwest corner of the formation and is obvious. Climb the splitter to a small ledge (5.9 with optional belay if short on cams). Be careful there is some loose rock on this small ledge. Continue up the crack to the top which has a tricky mantle with soft rock. Finding anchors on the top tricky due to the poor quality of the rock.

Walk 100 feet east from the summit to a bolted rappel anchor and rappel south 70' to the ground.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Reds Canyon