Starts just left of Dino's Stubble Trouble (5.10+), next to the 8th metal post.Stem up the left-leaning ramp feature past two bolts, then cast off into the steep face with incut crimps and occasional jugs. Two overhung bulges mark the crux(es). Finish right to an anchor shared with Dino's Stubble Trouble.

What's Up Dino?

Raspberry Arete

Lost Dino

Best Deal in Town

Unknown

Pocket Rocket

Unknown 2

Dino Found

New Wave Dino

Son of Dino

Dewpoint

Dino's Milkmaid

Dino Remembered

Best Deal in Town (P2 Variation)

Chop Shop

Mama's Boy

Dino's Stubble Trouble

Suffering Simians

Dino Who?

Amazing Dino

Dino Later

Flight of the Raven

Chop Shop starts in an 30 degree overhanging corner with the crux down low. Clip the first stainless bolt with gray hanger 7' off the deck then another two feet higher.  Pull the lip and get onto a vertical face where the difficulty backs off. Follow nice stainless protection past another bulge higher on the route before the run out anchor. Bring a tarp for your rope because the ground is completely covered in a layer of goat shit.

A fun lead up the greenish arete that tops out at the same anchors as Best Deal in Town and others.  Fun easy climb!  2 rope rappel or sketchy one bolt rap off the belay bolt on Best deal.

Start just to the left of a waist level belay bolt on purple and green rock. Climb crimps and cool fins on rock that is becoming better with traffic. There is a small runout between the 4th and 5th bolt on easy climbing. A good warm up and beginner lead.

A fun two pitch climb that has a great second great pitch.  Lives up to the name!

Start in a small alcove with a metal rod 20 feet right of Flight of the Raven. Climb a loose chimney to a face. After the face the climb angles left over easy ledges. Bring a bunch of slings for the top. Two raps will get you to the ground with one rope via the anchor for Flight of the Raven. Great view from the top!

Pocket Rocket starts above where the hand rail makes a turn toward the highway.  Begin down low on ledges with horizontal white stripes of quartz. Then follow bolts onto beautiful, smooth rock up the middle section of the climb.  The quality goes down a bit near the anchor but this is still a fun climb. If you want to keep your rope out of the goat crap a tarp is a MUST.

To access this line follow the main trail to where it meets the cliff then cut right along the rock face 200'.  This route starts 10' to the right of Dino's Milkmaid.  The first bolt is located 10' off the deck on a face of crimpy sharp holds that lead to an easy aret.  Follow this up and past a large ledge with midget pines to a second face.  Climb this to an anchor missing on hanger.  You may be able to rappel off the large pine located twenty feet right of the top of this route or scramble down the gullys and ledges.

Begin on green colored rock with small crimps. Balance your way up to the first bolt and make a tricky traverse right. Pull through a slightly overhanging flake and continue direct on easier ground. This is a new route so watch for lichen and crumble. Another fun warm up.

New Wave Dino starts under a small roof.  The first bolt is located seven feet high and is painted black.  Clip this with a runner or unclip to reduce rope drag.  Pull the first section of steep climbing, shake out on a middle section of less than vertical then get your pump on with a second section of purple collored overhanging rock with bulges up to the anchor.

This route starts at a nice belay on top of the wooden dam that dot put in to keep the trail from falling down to the highway.  Climb up a white streak on crimpy holds.  Clip two bolt before gaining the ledge.  The upper section of this climb is the crux with smooth, steep climbing just below the anchor.

Dewpoint is the furthest right route at Dino Head and is reached by walking a ledge system past Dino Milkmaid  The route starts about 300 right from the base of the lare pine tree located at the anchor of Milkmaid. This line climbs up the left side of a purple colored gully past a number of roofs on the aret. There is a belay bolt at head height on a white streaked rock.  The belay ledge is comfortable with a nice rock shield to protect you form rock knocked down by the leader.  Start up and left across the gully to an aret that get progressively steeper until a ledge located about 65' up.  Clip past the roof with loose rocks and on to the anchor.

Starts from a decent ledge with a belay bolt. Climb the left bolt line through funky moves with rock that is becoming more solid with traffic. Strange little traverse at the end. The anchor was recently upgraded with ASCA hardware.

Dino Remembered starts on the first bolt of Dino Who then trends out right on bolts up the face.  Cut back left near the top to the anchor shared with Dino Who.

Starting on the ledge atop P1 of Best Deal in Town, this route tackles the face to the left of the massive corner system. Reaching the first bolt involves some commiting and difficult moves, and is a sketchy proposition. Bring your "A" game for this lead. Sustained slabby face climbing past four bolts leads to some loose flakes/blocks, tread lightly here. An airy escape move out left under the roof and onto the arete marks the highlight of the route. Above, join Raspberry Arete (5.7) to the top.

Mama's Boy is located 45' right of the first two upright handrail bolts.  Start up white, broken rock and climb loose holds to the right of a crack.  The first bolt is located 13 feet up the cliff.  Some small gear can be used to protect the start of this route and keep climbers off the highway.  Follow bolts past smooth bulges and onto the upper aret that leads to a anchor 150' up the cliff.  This route requires a two rope rappel or a hike off.  Look out for falling rock when pulling the rope.

One of the better offerings at Dino's Head. Across from the 7th metal post/handrail. Climb up the obvious white streak marked with sharp and plentiful calcite "pimples" andcool finger pockets. This textured surface is super solid and provides some excellent friction.

Steep start into a horizontal crack, then some remaining 5.10 face to a set of chains which are quite a ways left of the route, shared with Dino Later. This route has an extension that continues straight up from the 7th bolt to a two bolt anchor.

Near the left end of the cliff, locate the dramatically overhanging green-and-purple colored corner. Technical stemming, palming, counter-pressure and layback moves will get you up one of the finer routes on the highway. Very steep, and each move gets harder until the crux finale. Lots of cool moves packed into one short route.

Amazing Dino is located just right of the wooden berm that keeps the trail form rolling down to the highway.   The first bolt has been drilled into a perfectly smooth section of rock.  Climb a steep face with lots of protection to a small ledge.  Shake out then continue up past a few more sections of smoothly polished face fetchers near the top.  The last 10' before the anchor consists of fun, steep climbing.

Climb pumpy crimps and fun stemming up the red streak of rock to the left of Suffering Simians. Exit left from the bulge onto Pocket Rocket or right to the anchors.

At the moment this is the furthest left line at the cliff. Climb a couple of ledges to a polished face. Stay directly on the bolt line after the 5th bolt for the best rock quality.

A very nice area that escapes a little of the noise that the highway is notorious for.  Can be very windy however so bring a shell even on a warm day.  Typically you are the only one hanging out with the goats on this crag.  The rock type is typical of the Seward Highway with loose rock being common.  Most stuff around the area is bolted so trad gear isn't necessary but on a few climbs.  A gorgeous view somewhat makes up for the wind and noise!

Description

Protection

Routes in Dino Head