This is the hikers route to the summit of the South Rabbit Ear and is also commonly used as the descent. It climbs up a shady gully on the Northwest side of the rabbit ear, starting from a point near the top of the saddle between South and Middle Rabbit Ears. There are definitely portions where you need your hands free, and where there is pretty good exposure. Also, some basic "common sense" route finding should be applied to sniff out the "easiest" way up (or down).

Northwest Face

South Face Pinnacle (historical)

Balls Away

Inner Arc

West Ridge

Normal West Face

South Rib

Mom's Apple Pie

The description below, found in NMSU archives, was created by the legendary Southwest Mountaineers. It is at a minimum twenty years old and may date as far back as 1970s. The rock itself may have changed since that time. The rating certainly has. You will want to add at least a point to it. Treat what follows as a rough guide to an adventure, not as a solid and current info. If you do climb the route, sharing of what you learn would be appreciated. 

  Climb up to the pinnacle in one medium length pitch from the South Rabbit Ear/Rabbit Ears Massif saddle. This pinnacle was first reached by rappelling from the summit (J. Goncz and T. McCalla.)

The description below, found in NMSU archives, was created by the legendary Southwest Mountaineers. It is at a minimum twenty years old and may date as far back as 1970s. The rock itself may have changed since that time. The rating certainly has. You will want to add at least a point to it. Treat what follows as a rough guide to an adventure, not as a solid and current info. If you do climb the route, sharing of what you learn would be appreciated.

 A fine route on steep, firm rock.  

  P1: The first pitch goes straight up some 30 feet, then traverses left to the top of a shoulder on the face.  

  P2: Next pitch traverses right some 20' to a bolt, then oozes around the bottom of a prominent rib, then up a dihedral and over the top of the rib to a good belay spot about 40' above the bolt.  

  P3: The next pitch is an easy diagonal traverse up and to the right along a large fault, but only about 30' long (to a scooped out place with a bush!).  

  P4: From this belay climb straight up about 20', and go up very steep rock to the left of an overhanging bit (a great hold, once you get high enough). You arrive at a comfortable ledge. Mantle onto a chest-high crescent crack and clip into the bolt. Then search to the left for any avail¬able holds. The secret here is to ooze leftward, then get the left foot high onto "The Great Grey Foothold," which certain negative spirits have classified as a mere discoloration of the rock. You go up some 10 to 15 feet without any decent holds, then seize a good finger hold and traverse left to security. The summit is 20' away. 

  Apex Variation of P4: (first ascent: Dick Ingraham, George Goedecke, 5.6) When the "overhanging bit" is reached, go up right for a very steep section of 10 to 15 feet with a sort of layback. Thus you get into a V-shaped cleft, descending from the apex of this triangular face, and occupied by a clinging tree. Chimney out at the top through this tree. 

  Frank's Variation: (First ascent: Frank de Saussure, Ron Thomas, 5.6) When the belay spot for the forth pitch of Route 3 is reached, go right along the "large fault" another 30 feet. Then traverse left and up toward the "Apex" on small holds. You arrive at the cleft, occupied by the clinging tree. Finish as in Apex Variation above.

The description below, found in NMSU archives, was created by the legendary Southwest Mountaineers. It is at a minimum twenty years old and may date as far back as 1970s. The rock itself may have changed since that time. The rating certainly has. You will want to add at least a point to it. Treat what follows as a rough guide to an adventure, not as a solid and current info. If you do climb the route, sharing of what you learn would be appreciated.

 From a point about 200 feet to the right of the great gully, blackened and smoothed by water runoff from Mom's Apple Pie Gully above, take to the rock. A steep section, employing hand traverses, gets you up the first 20'. Then go up fairly steep rock to a good belay spot about 100' above the beginning. Continue along the lower lip of the great innermost arc-like fault on easy, but rotten, rock to the meeting with the Mom's Apple Pie Gully. The Outer Arc parallels this one about 200 feet up and to the right.

Slightly longer and slightly more technical than Northwest Face. The West Ridge is fairly broad and was described by Ingraham as fourth class, but you're likely to encounter a few steep walls with good exposure that may lead you to think this route has some fifth class terrain. When I first climbed the route, I ended up in a large right facing corner for 100 ft. However, it seems futile to try to pin down one correct way to climb the west ridge. Instead, enjoy simply meandering through the block ledges.

The description below, found in NMSU archives, was created by the legendary Southwest Mountaineers. It is at a minimum twenty years old and may date as far back as 1970s. The rock itself may have changed since that time. The rating certainly has. You will want to add at least a point to it. Treat what follows as a rough guide to an adventure, not as a solid and current info. If you do climb the route, sharing of what you learn would be appreciated. 

  From the top of the first pitch of Balls Away (go straight up some 30 feet, then traverses left to the top of a shoulder on the face), go straight up one easy pitch on phenomenal holds, then follow a great fault slanting up and to the right to the summit.

The description below, found in NMSU archives, was created by the legendary Southwest Mountaineers. It is at a minimum twenty years old and may date as far back as 1970s. The rock itself may have changed since that time. The rating certainly has. You will want to add at least a point to it. Treat what follows as a rough guide to an adventure, not as a solid and current info. If you do climb the route, sharing of what you learn would be appreciated.

 The South Rib forms the right-hand boundary of the West Face. Climb straight up it, through a succession of easy problems.

The description below, found in NMSU archives, was created by the legendary Southwest Mountaineers. It is at a minimum twenty years old and may date as far back as 1970s. The rock itself may have changed since that time. The rating certainly has. You will want to add at least a point to it. Treat what follows as a rough guide to an adventure, not as a solid and current info. If you do climb the route, sharing of what you learn would be appreciated.

 Climb up three pitches over fairly good holds but some loose rock to the great gully descending from the South Face Pinnacle. To return, it is best to reverse this ascent route by rappel.  

  This route also serves as the best way off for climbs on the East Face of South Rabbit Ear.

The South rabbit Ear is the smallest of three towers at the ridge of the Rabbit Ears group. Despite being smaller than the Middle and North Rabbit ears, the South Rabbit Ear offers a summit that can be accessed by adventurous hikers, and often is. There are also a number of routes on the myriad of faces which facet the peak. It provides a great vantage point to view routes on the Middle rabbit Ear's southern wall as well as looking out over big windy canyon to the south. 

  When viewed from the East side of the Organs (from Aguirre springs) there are a number of large faces which have only begun to be explored such as Pyramid of South Rabbit Ear.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in South Rabbit Ear