Start with some bouldering moves up and right to the highest large stance on Rob's Ravine.  Climb on small face holds up and left to the edge of the main wall that defines Toothpick and Close to the Edge and continue up to the steep crack on Far from the Edge.  Climb the remaining section using hand holds that make up the right side of the crack and the edge of the main wall.  Or just climb the crack which is fun 5.9.

AKA David Evans

Short Stack

Social Distancing

The Big Lie

Rob's Ravine

Vertical Therapy

Toothpick

Blueberry Corner

Far from the Edge

Joy Ride

Face N' Finger

Blueberry Face

Hand Crack

Competitive Edge

Interproximal

Peach Cobbler Pie

Fat Chimney

Close to the Edge

Power Surge

Hot Donna

Reach for the Sky

Zenith

Blueberry Jam

Start just to the left of the arete below the upside-down Y crack. The right branch of that Y is your goal, focusing on the face.  A lot of balanced face climbing.

Several variations exist depending on how you want to clamber over this small pillar. The original guidebook shows a route on the left side in the corner

 This is a short climb that will get you to the top of Toothpick with a bit more effort than the chimney around the other side of the short pillar. This is a good practice climb and more realistically, its another ladder to get between the top and the bottom of the Toothpick Wall

Climb the overhanging blocky start to a technical mid-section.  Shake out before another pumpy overhang up the left leaning crack topped by a short flared corner. Face holds left of the crack are helpful, especially through the flared corner.  Climb easier terrain straight up to the anchor chains (installed October 2021).

Look for the line of bolts that protect a unique left slanting rail and bulging headwall. The crux is well protected by the third bolt. Anchor chains are not easily visible from the ground but are just below the big block near the top.  For those not into 5.11s, use the Interproximal corner through the crux section which reduces the difficulty of the climb to 5.10 (The Little Lie).

A dihedral in between "Far from the Edge" and "Competitive Edge". This will be the dihedral between the slabby face and the right bolted arete that houses Competitive Edge. You can make it more or less difficult by favoring the face. Often dirty and overgrown

Really fun climb and super accessible. good tree for anchor and easy rappel down. Use a directional to avoid getting rope stuck in top crack, which is super annoying when jamming the sweet but all too short hand crack at the top . from this anchor spot you can climb "power surge" just to climber right

Nice looking thin crack with a spooky start. 

Dirty. This utilizes the corner right of Blueberry Face. Start on the right-most flaky crack and go up into the corner (into the tree). This takes you into a shallow groove dihedral to get you to the top

This is the bolted face climb just to the right of Blueberry Corner. It starts right below the overhanging roof. After the roof crux, stay to the left of arete. Continue up to the anchors

This starts with a wide crescent shaped crack and turns into a wide ledged face with jugs along the way. Crux is the last bit at the top. The oldest guidebooks have this marked as 5.9. Perhaps with some contrived variations to the left or right of the crack, that focus on just the face, you can find that difficulty.

Climb the clean face right of Blueberry Jam, knowing that there is a fair bit of wandering around for this route to stay on grade. You can start on the step-up block towards the right side of the face. Once stepped up on the ledge, you should traverse left to the crack before heading back up and right towards the bulging arete. Work that arete up and then back left to the top

A slabby climb featuring a prominent crack. There is a tree right up top to use as an anchor

Series of compression and balance moves up the arete 

This general area of Toothpick Wall required extensive cleaning including removal of a couple cooler sized blocks from the Interproximal crack system. The result is a nice addition to the list of quality routes on Toothpick Wall.Climb the slightly overhanging right facing corner up to a horizontal roof crack capped by a pod.  Work your way into the pod and stay in the same crack system that diagonals slightly to the right.  The climb is a little easier if you use some of the neighboring holds on Social Distancing on the left through the pod section.  Climb over big flakes and ledges and check out the Smart Car sized block suspended overhead.  Rap chains for The Big Lie can be used here if the block is too unnerving.  Otherwise, continue up the overhanging crack on the left side of the block through another pod and over the top.  Climb out of the boulder pit to the tree anchor up by the trail.  The right side of the block also goes and is a little harder than the left side.  Another variation is to go left from the upper pod on face holds to a nice finger crack (5.11-) leading to the Social Distancing anchor chains.October 2021 update: anchor chains installed above the upper pod courtesy of Josh Elliott.  

This starts on the ledge above the lower starting ledge for climbs like Blueberry Jam around the corner. Climb the face between Reach For The Sky and the wide corner crack. Thin ledges that slant leftward and down will urge a particular tiptoeing beta

This is an easy fat chimney that would work well as a practice climb. More realistically, its a ladder to get between the top and the bottom of the Toothpick Wall

5.11+ in guidebook - slightly harder than Toothpick, but not by much. Excellent sequences on bullet hard rock. This is among the best cracks in Portland. Climbs right arching crack to the left of Toothpick.

 Navigate the initial moves off of the pedestal to a great jug. Rest up, pull a challenging boulder problem (crux) then jam the satisfying finger locks to the top.

 Gear after first 15 feet is G. Would be inadvisable to fall above your first piece of gear (pg13 section) - given the bad landing onto the pedestal and marginal quality of the placement. Beginning section may require quick gardening (vines tend to grow up the pedestal - but they are very easy to clean)

Climb up the shallow corner on dirty small holds to the crux bulge, pull a reachy move up and climb into the dihedral. lots of water rushes down this area during the winter so be prepared for a dirty, messy climb through the last section. bring a brush

Start under the over hang for Joy Ride. Move right around the over hang(first bolt). Ascend a small ramp to next bolts. Work your way through some easy terrain to the next bolt. Gain a small ledge and another  bolt. Go strait up to the crux with a nice lay back with a bolt in the crux. Meet up at the anchor for joyride. They share an anchor. Anchor is about 15 feet below top of cliff.

Start on the lowest ledge. Ascend left of the arete until halfway up, where you meet a wide ledge, then move to the right side of the arete to finish up

Climb the face and pass the left side of the small ceiling near the top

Blueberry Jam is a steep, clean crack on the left side of the Toothpick Wall.  The traditional start begins to the right of the crack on easy terrain and traverses left on good edges.  Small cams or RP's protect the traverse reasonably well.  An alternate direct-start is bouldery and fun though much more challenging than anything else on the route (bumps the grade up to 5.10a).  Once into the crack the climbing gets really fun. Relatively steep climbing with great jamming and frequent face holds.  Near the top of Blueberry Jam the crack gets wider but also less steep.  Most will run this section out though a C4 #6 can be used.

Toothpick Wall is a clean and quiet area with about a dozen climbs. A trio of excellent cracks (Blueberry, Toothpick and Vertical Therapy) garner most of the attention. Very few climbs on the Toothpick Wall have fixed anchors though all are top-ropeable using adjacent trees and/or your own gear. This area also includes "Easy Street" with basically the same top access, which is great for beginners as it has short, easy routes. This area is divided from Mean Street to the south/left by the water drainage and a steep incline, and from Breakfast Cracks by another steep hillside which includes up-down access via the cave scramble.

Description

Location

Routes in j. Toothpick Wall