A-rester

Coyote Corner

Dressed to Kill

Dance to the Music

Midlife Crisis

A Stunning feature that has a little bit of everything. Start up a crack that leads into a ramp with a left facing corner. Continue up ramp until you must negotiate a wild feature that has many options. Clip the bolt and bust a few insecure moves up to a small stance where you get your last bolt. Rest up and launch into the meat of the route with fingers locks and some big dynamic pulls until you reach the final crack system, then rejoice in the final patina jugs to the chains.

Coyote Corner is not located on the upper west face of Rabbit Rock up the hill and north a good distance from the popular Red Tail(11a) in a large left facing corner.  Follow the trail around the north end of Parking Lot Rock.  The large upper west face of Rabbit rock is across from the north end of the east face of Parking Lot Rock.  The base of the climb can be identified by locating some large detached blocks.  The route starts at the right edge of these blocks and continues up the vegetated dihedral.  From a distance this looks like a classic corner.  Unfortunately it isn't; but it is fun to climb anyway.

The standard descent for the north end of the west face of Rabbit Rock is a rappel from chains on the north end; or to scramble down the north end. We did not do this.  We located some chains just slightly to the south(right) and down the face about 15 feet from the top of the climb.  A 60m rope made it safely down from these chains.

The crux is about two-thirds of the way up the second pitch. It is thin and balancy.

An under appreciated gem that needs more traffic. Start with a committing and fairly improbable traverse, then move up nice clean patina to a small alcove. Cop a rest and lay back up into the stem box/open book. A great route to know when to tip toe and burl your way through!

This route has a little bit of everything with good rock quality and sustained technical climbing.  There were four distinct cruxes for me that all involved tricky slab footwork and delicate balance.  The Classics guidebook calls this route 11b but I thought it may push into the 11+ realm (my partner and I found it more challenging than Spud Meets Hammerhead, 11c).  Overall, a neat combination of face and slab climbing with well-spaced bolts.

Description

Routes in Rabbit Rock -West