Blue Heron is definately the best bolted route on the rock.  It's also the only quality bolted route with quality rock in the Twin Coves.

Climb up the gently overhung face using large (sometimes) hidden pockets with excellent feet and excellent clipping spots.  There's nothing real suttle about the route, but the rest and holds are excellent.

To reach this route walk around the rock to the right around the corner from Seagull Arete.

Blue Heron

Calimari

Seagull Arete

Wrist Slitter Traverse

South Side Center Top Rope

This route starts on top of a rock at the highest point on the rock.  This is the easiest bolted way to the top of the rock.

Climb up the initial one move wonder bulge to the first bolt, and then head up the slabby arete to the top bolts.  The first move is intimidating, but not hard.

Kinda ho-hum, but it gets you to the top to set up a top rope.

A hard start on loose rock leads up to the first bolt, and then into a really slippery sloper move up to the slab.  This links up to the second bolt of the Seagull Arete (5.6) via some easy moves on the slab on garbage rock.  Climbing on the upper section of Seagull Arete is 5.0, if that.

This is just right of Seagull Arete.

This is the best problem we found at Twin Coves.

Starting 20' left and downhill from the beginning of Seagull arete you will find an overhung section that allows for a great bouldering traverse.  Start on the large jug in the slot, and move steadily uphill on the arete. Continue uphill with hands and feet on the arete and mantle out just before the large bulge around the corner from Seagull Arete.

The final moves are guaranteed to slit your wrist.

Located in the center of the South wall on the sport rock, this route was is the most varied climb on the rock.

This excellent top rope heads up the right side of the cave on  overhung rock, mantles out of the cave to some easy slab climbing, which makes for an excellent break.  After 15' of slab, dive into the slightly overhung face (go up 6' left of the large dihedral feature where there are two sidepulls you can see from the ground) where hands get small.  A final lunge puts you to the top using a sloper that's not quite as good as you expect.

Lower or rappell off the top.

Description

Protection

Routes in Sport Rock (aka North Pointed Rock)