After reaching the ledge on top of the detached slab, bust a dead vertical finger crack sidepull, with unique edges to flake jugs. Top out by connecting to the top 2 bolts of Virginia.

Southwest Farthing

Virginia

Back Crack

Original Route

Saruman's Ruffians

Start in the wide crack to the left. After the wide crack finishes on the ledge, begin technical face climbing with powerful crux sequences. Use the undercling flakes for rest. After the face, use the thin crack seam to the top. Finish in the corner crack system. Easy 5th traversing to the anchors of Virginia.

Follow the clearest crack up the south face of the Shire Spire, working from thin hands to fingers. The climb is slabby, and face holds provide good feet for much of the route.  After about 35 ft the crack peters out, and you can move up and left onto juggier terrain, protected by two bolts. The climb has a great alpine feeling, with interesting rock and fun moves.

Nice finger crack for the first 20ft, takes all sorts of nuts.  Crux is probably down low, with good feet in the crack and nice finger locks.  The finger crack tops out with a loose death block that is very tempting to pull on, but can be avoided.  After that it is a wide easy crack up to the top of the spire, from the top you can traverse left about 6 ft to a two bolt anchor with chains.  Save a number 2 camalot for a directional before traversing to the anchors.

Consistently overhanging, this route changes from steep hands to sporty climbing between cracks, made possible by a number of juggy holds and a few good rests. The rock is hollow in spots and shows scars from recent rockfall, so climb delicately. After the first twenty feet, the climbing changes from bomber cracks to tenuous face climbing, making protection difficult. I would recommend topping the route before leading this, even if you are used to climbing at this grade.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Shire Spire