The route at the entrance to the Grotto (gully 30m R of sixtoe crack)

Stellar

Picture Perfect

Fresh Fruit For Rotten Vegetables

Chocksucker

Six Toe Crack

Over easy

No Mercy

Easy Street

Dead Precedents

Easy on

from half way up chocsuker, take a steep handcrack to a chain anchor (Fixe SS, 2x12mm x75mm Triplex). 2nd pitch is the meat, bust up the steep slab via some balancy moves on water runnels, to finish steeply via technical nibnobs

R of the Gulley with all those Ian Katz R routes..

Begin about 20' up left of a prominent, right-leaning, flared chimney. Jam a classic, right-leaning hand/fist crack, then ascend a short section of easy face climbing to the summit.

Dihedral just to right of 6 Toe Crack. Strenuous lie-backing is the character of the route.

Well protected, but fairly old school 5.9. Lots of moss/lichen at bottom of P1 makes me think it is not climbed very often, but I'm not a local, so who knows.

First 25' of P1 are probably the crux. Top of P1 is build your own anchor at approximately same vertical height as 6 Toe Crack. Then continue upwards...

At top of P2, we stepped left to share the 6 Toe Crack slung belay, then ran up the 3rd pitch of 6 Toe Crack to top out. Maybe better climbers would stay in the dihedral/lieback system...

Rappel down 6 Toe Crack with a single 60m rope for the descent.

This route follows a continious crack system for two good pitches up Six Toe Rock. Pro is good and widely available. Rock quality is excellent and the line is direct.

Pitch 1: 100' 5.8Start with a tricky move off the ground to get situated in the crack above. Follow the crack for 90 more feet to a bolt anchor.

Pitch 2: 95' 5.8+Continue up the crack until you reach a short section of offwidth (#4 camalot) just before the anchor.

Descent:2 Raps with a 60m rope from fixed anchors.

Takes " easy on " to the 3 old bolts, step left and gain the R trending crack system to end at the same abseil as sixtoes second pitch. There is a big tree growing out the crack at the top. Onsight 1st ascent. Best route in this area IMO!

Using stemming, jamming, or whatever else works, climb the severely flared, right-leaning chimney. When it peters out after 50', switch to jamming and continue up a fist crack that curves up left to a small flake/ledge. Face-climb to the top from here (run-out).

Not so easy and surprisingly awesome. 2 or 3 pitches. Climb crack farthest L of sixtoe 20m up the gulley, starting at a small rooflet. There are an optional set of loweroffs at just below halfway before the hard crack section. Finish the pitch at the tree with slings. One short pitch to the top.

an alternative 3rd pitch to Sixtoe crack. Step R from the belay and go up a thin seam past 5bolts

The obvious right-leaning crack that merges with Six Toe Crack at its midpoint. Originally done in 2 pitches. 1st pitch ended at the 3 dodgy old bolts and white tat, (death wish to use, just do it in one 60m pitch).

1 or 2 moves feel a bit airy, a bit above your gear...

and u get to do the cool OW bit on 6toe again!!

Description

Protection

Routes in Six Toe Rock