There are two different starts to the route. The cleaner start follows the first two pitches of the The Cruise/Scenic Cruise and then traverses left to the start of the third pitch of the Goss-Logan. The original start takes a bushy chimmey about a hundred feet left of the Cruise start. Allow at least ten hours for the route, if not more. We did it in 11 hours rim to rim with me leading all of the pitches but the third. This is a serious route with some big fall potential on pitch seven. Not as classic as the Scenic Cruise but a lot more demanding. Once past the first three pitches the climb becomes cleaner. I didn't climb the route for years because of the "rep" of pitch seven. Thanks to whoever replaced the bolts on that pitch. They don't make the runouts any shorter, just a little more comforting.

Pitch one and two: 5.9 Start as for the Cruise and climbing up 200 feet to a belay just below a large ledge at some fixed slings. This can done as one pitch using a 200 foot rope. Use long slings to avoid rope drag. Traverse left for 100 feet to a bushy corner system.

Pitch three: 5.8 Climb up the bushy corner past a couple of fixed pins with slings to a ledge just below a blocky section.

Pitch four: 5.9 Go left up the corner system and reach a belat at a bolt and fixed stopper.

Pitch five: 5.9 Go left and then down a for 10 feet. Climb up the wide crack/chimmey to the top of a large block. Use caution gaining the top of the block due to loose rock. Belay from bolts from the river side of the block.

Pitch six: 5.10 Climb up the obtuse thin corner with small gear to a belay at new bolt and bomber yellow alien.I would almost give this pitch an r-rating.

Pitch seven:5.11R The runout pitch. There are two long (20-25 feet) runout sections on this pitch with very bad fall potential. Traverse up and right into a small corner, place gear (small stopper and green alien) and then go right (scary 5.9) on fairly good holds to the first bolts (one modern/one old button)take a deep breath and traverse right on small edges (scary 5.10) to the second bolt. Clip the bolt and climb straight up past two more bolts (5.11) tending right to a crack (wild exposure). Belay about 15 feet up the crack or continue another 30 feet to a good ledge. I belay in the crack to keep my second in sight. A wild, wild pitch.

Pitch eight: 5.10+ Climb the obvious flaring hand and fist crack with good gear up to a good ledge. A hard pitch.

Pitch nine: 5.10 Climb up a hand and fist crack that leads into a wide chimmey. Follow the chimmey and veer left onto a flake. Climb the flake and then go right up a shallow, narrow groove (green alien at the top of the groove) and mantle onto a good ledge that meets into the "the Cruise/Scenic Cruise. Climb up a short slab to a good belay below a huge flake. Option: 5.10+ Traverse left under the overhang and then climb up a thin corner that leads directly to the shallow groove. I got off route on this pitch and did the above option.

Pitch ten: 5.8 Climb up blocky rock and then a short corner with a thin crack. Step left and go behind the huge flake. Climb up the flake and then flip the rope around to the front side of the flake. Climb up a short crack to a new three-bolt anchor.

Pitch eleven: 5.9+ Traverse right on a fairly good holds then up a short corner to a bolt (1/4 inch) on the right. Go right and then reach a new bolt and make a hard move past the bolt reaching a crack system. Follow the crack up to a great ledge below a small overhang.

Pitch twelve: 5.9+ Crank over the overhang and angle left up a good ledge and belay.

Pitch thirteen: Traverse left on good flakes for 25 feet to a corner. Follow the corner straight up (5.9+) to a good belay just below a red-colored overhang.

Pitch fourteen:5.8 Climb through the overhang and up a short corner. At the top of the corner veer right into a slot with a flake/crack on the left. Crank up the flake and over a small overhang to a large ledge system and the end of the climb. Traverse up and right to another ledge system. Go left for 300 feet to just below the overlook. climb up to the top.

Goss-Logan

Stoned Oven

Kama Sutra

The Cruise

Kachina Wings

Journey Home

Twisted

The Scenic Cruise

Happy Ending

Musical Partners

Moveable Feast

Bloodsport

Qualgeist

Leisure Climb

The Hallucinogen Wall

Eighth Voyage of Sinbad

Movable Stoned Voyage

The Apparition

A Midsummer Night's Dream

Dylan Wall

The Black Sheep

The Diagonal

The Free Hallucinogen Wall

Straight Out Da Projects

The Free Nose

Walk of Shame

Trilogy

Highway 61 Revisited

Air Guitar

827 Go! (AKA Job Site Dogs)

Air Voyage

Colorado Welcome Party

White Devil

Air Jordan

The Free Nose is a spectacular long free route.  The climb attacks the steep and dramatic central prow of North Chasm View Wall in roughly 14 pitches of sustained, technical, and sometimes devious climbing. There is unprotected 5.10, mandatory 5.11, and four sections of well-protected low-end 5.12.  It is possible to retreat with 2 ropes from as high as the top of the 5.12 corner pitch, but above that retreat would be very difficult, although not impossible.

P1 and P2 (5.8 or 5.9). Start at the

Scenic Cruise

corner, and climb this to the large terrace. Walk left and belay.

P3 (5.7). At the left edge of the terrace climb a bushy crack to a small ledge.

P4 (5.9). Step left and climb the left corner of the large flake to a good ledge (rap anchors, good bivy site).

P5 (5.11c R). Now climb the clean corner past a flake, and continue past the hanging belay on the

Goss-Logan

free route (the

G-L

free route traverses out right just below the obvious roof). Climb through the roof at stiff 5.11 with thin gear, a bit necky, to a nice stance at bolts.

P6 (5.12a with 5.10b R). Climb the obscenely beautiful corner above past 3 bolts to a runout 5.10 section. Step left at a #2 Friend placement to a hidden stance at 2 bolts and belay. This is one of the finest pitches of climbing in the Black, very thin and technical stemming.

P7 (5.12a with 5.11a R). Climb up past a tenuous, frightening flake (the Ghost) clipping some ancient bolts if you choose. These bolts were added after Goss and Logan's first aid ascent. Now ascend a steep bulge past 2 bolts, doing some difficult moves on sloping holds, while hand traversing a bit right and into a corner with poor rock and marginal gear, 5.10+. (This is where Goss and Logan pendulumed right and escaped onto the Kor-Dalke

i.e.

Cruise on their first ascent.)  Move left out of the corner past a hidden bolt, then climb tricky face up and left on dark rock past 2 more bolts, 5.11c. Belay at 3 bolts (the third bolt is pro for the next pitch). A butt bag is nice for this hanging belay.  A hard lead.

P8 (5.11c with 5.10b R, 5.8 X for second). Step down and then traverse straight left, each move easier than the last, following a tiny ledge past a rotten corner. Continue left to a rotten 5.10- section leading into a 5.10+ hand and fist crack, bad rock, scary. Unfortunately x does not equal x, as this pitch is dangerous to follow, at least on the moves after unclipping the protection bolt at the start of the lead-there is no gear from the bolt to the 5.10- section, about 40 feet, although most of the traverse is easy. Belay at a perfect ledge (Pigeon Ledge).

P9: (5.11d with 5.11b R).  Climb unprotected, awkward 5.9 up a sharp flake, then clip four bolts through a 5.11d section (some fragile holds). Climb up with no gear (5.10) to a good .5 TCU placement, then punch it further on runout 5.11 following a weird crack that eventually has good pro. Belay at 2 bolts (hanging). This is a difficult, heady lead and is very exposed.

P10 (5.12b with 5.10c R). Climb up and right with RPs to protect 5.11d climbing. Now climb into the corner (you are now on the original Nose route) and do a difficult boulder problem past a fixed wire or two. Smaller fingers may help with this section- you may be able to just lie it back. This is very technical, powerful, 5.12b, and the technical crux of the route. Continue past a ramp and up a short step of 5.9 through some pegmatite. Belay on a sloping ledge (Pewter Ledge) at some bolts.

P11 (5.10d with 5.10c R).  Climb unprotected 5.10c for 15 feet up a clean wall, then stretch right for a #0.75 Camalot placement. Move up and right past a bolt, then hand traverse right (5.10+) and up to a nice stance. Do not continue straight up after the unprotected start of this pitch - it will lead you through the Death Blocks roof on the aid Nose route.

P12 (5.10c). Climb the peg wall above past some fixed pins (5.10), then round the corner right and climb a clean, sharp 5.8 beauty of a hand crack.

P13. Step left to a 5.9 crack system leading to a large ledge.

P14 (5.11d with 5.10c R). Climb the 20 foot ceiling above at the obvious crack (5.11d, fixed wire), then turn the lip and climb a short stretch of unprotected 5.10 to the guard rail. It is also possible to climb up and left and rim out at 5.8.

I looked on this route for beta and didn't find any so figured it needed to be contributed. I have heard this route described as "Astroman's ugly cousin," "harder than Astroman," and "absolutely classic." I have no problem ignoring difficult route-finding, loose rock, lichen, munge, prickly cacti, and bird shit to call this route a total classic. It rules! For its position, sustained nature, and high volume of quality pitches, not to mention its size, this route lives up to classic status. However, I don't think it's as hard as Astroman, and don't come expecting it's flawless cracks.

Consult the Williams topo and use this info as a supplement. Belays as marked on the topo are not always obvious on the route (e.g. no fixed slings or gear). Likewise, the topo pitch lengths are not proportionate and thus may lead to some confusion. My suggested pitch lengths are approximate and as close as I can remember.

P1. Wide through a roof into a large, right-facing corner (150 feet). Link this into 2 with a 70m cord.

P2. Climb a short pitch of .10- continuing up the corner.

P3. Ascends a long, 5.7, choss gully around the corner to the right.

P4. From the ledge at the top of the gully, climb up face holds and into the rightmost and hopefully cleanest corner above you. This is where the topo gets confusing as it shows climbing in an actual corner. If in doubt, just climb up, always being aware of the corners you're aiming for in about 3-4 pitches. I think trying to find the rock with the least lichen is handy as well. I never noticed bolts like the topo suggests. End at really old tat on a small stance/ledge(100ft?)

P5. Head straight up the corner above 11b and place small aliens and RPs for gear as you traverse thin corners and ramps to the left. This bit is clean and fairly obvious. I linked this with 4 and belayed on top of the marked pillar on the topo, a very comfortable stop. Stay right in the corner above, don't wander too far out right like we did (160 feet?).

P6. Climb up to a bulge, marked, and lieback and kneebar up it, then follow the bushy cracks above till the bolt can be spotted on the traverse out right (100 feet?) This can be linked easily with the next traverse.

P7. The route is clean and obvious from here on out. Do a slabby/face traverse out right with a fixed nut and a crafty Alien or two for pro and climb up the thin crack to the bottom of the flare (60 feet).

P8. This is not really an offwidth, more of just a flaring corner where straight up jamming and chimneying are used. The majority of it has a perfect hand crack in the back. The crux is at the top with interesting stemming moves to reach a bolt and belay out left on the arete. Don't be afraid of this pitch, in the valley it would be 5.9, and its well protected with smaller gear (100 feet).

P9. This is the best pitch of the climb, the enduro corner. It is easier than it looks from below but packs a large pump. You get some great liebacking through #4, then #3.5 to #3 Camalots lead to a stem rest halfway up. Great liebacking or handjamming continue on and when the crack really begins to arch it gets much easier, finally ending in green Camalot size (120 feet) 5.11c.

P10. Technical crux I suppose. Boulder problem with a bolt right off the belay leads to a long leftward traverse to a huge ledge (5.11c, 40 feet).

P11. Off the upper tier of the ledge head up a pegmatite groove. The climbing is fun and challenging, and doesn't offer a ton of pro. The topo indicates a chimney of sorts and this is wrong. Its more of a groove that you face climb. Also, the bolt and belay are not really located on top of any sort of pillar. Where the topo says no! should be a huge 5 inch offwidth that doesn't look appealing to climb, but due to confusion I tried anyway. Don't do this, just belay at the bolt (120 feet).

P12. The topo doesn't bother rating the face traverse that begins this pitch, but it is at least 5.11 slab/face and you would fall onto the shitty belay bolt. Based on the tat on the bolt, I think many people penji here and this may not be a bad idea. Continue up the cracks above which are really good (160 feet).

P13. This is the womb fight. It is unrateable, horizontal offwidthing. Like Thank God Ledge's evil twin, this is no fun at all (100 feet).

P14. Go easily to the top (40 feet).

This old and obscure line follows somewhere close to

A Mid Summer...

and

Leisure...

. It may be intentionally obscured in the guidebooks; however, the Kama Sutra Corner is clearly visible from afar. The corner, in my opinion, is the business and seemingly the crux of the route. From the common "walk off" shelf, there is a larger OW corner that climbs 100 feet + to the rim. This is the Kama Sutra corner.

To find the start of the route, descend the Cruise Gully. After the second rappel, continue down the gully along the base of the rock until reaching a large, right-facing corner, about 200 feet high. You will see the obvious offwidth above.

P1. Ascend the 5.9 corner, and climb the 5.7 V-shaped groove past a roof easily for a full rope length. The alternate start is to begin to the left of the corner making an unprotected 5.7 slab move to regain the line. It is 200' to an old pin belay on a ledge.

P2. Head straight up a wide crack past a slight bulge, passing two old pins on your right to an alcove where there is a two-pin belay with slings, 5.9, 125-150'.

P3. Begin off the belay passing a small chockstone, and squirm up the chimney. Exit on the left, and ascend the offwidth. There is one old bolt on the right as you ascend, but you can get natural gear to a two-pin belay, 5.10, 130'.

P4. Ascend the sustained, thin, right-facing corner with stems and laybacks. It is 5.10+ for 155 feet. Both of the guidebooks we referenced mention a small traverse of pegmatite at the top to a one-bolt belay. This bolt is nothing you can count on for a belay, and you are better off continuing to a small ledge above where the

Scenic Cruise

merges 5.8 R, or belay below the pegmatite in the crack and ascend a small pitch, 40' to the ledge above.

P5. Belay at the horn on the far right where the

Scenic Cruise

comes in and ascend the sustained, 5.10+, overhanging corner, past a roof and up a wide crack (5.8?) and over easier ground all the way to the bivi ledge where the

Gross-Logan

merges with the route, 170'.

P6. From the bivi ledge, ascend either the crack on the right or left, (we took the left) past a very nasty thorn bush, be ready to do battle with it, to an easy chimney heading left at its top to easy ground. Belay below the large flake, 130'. Combining this pitch to above the flake can be done, but beware of rope drag.

P7. From below the large flake, trend to the left and ascend interesting ground up behind the flake some funky moves, climbing on top of it and exiting to a new two-bolt belay at the start of the Pegmatite traverse, 70'.

P8. Traverse straight right 5.7 (the guidebook mentioned fixed gear, we saw none) then up past three bolts ascending through the pegmatite, the third bolt has no hanger, it is 5.9R to a belay stance, 150'.

P9. Ascend the awkward bulge/crack above the belay, for a short pitch to a good ledge, 5.9+, 50'(possible to combine with Pegmatite traverse).

P10. Traverse left on loose flakes to a right-facing corner with an old fixed #3 Camalot, and ascend straight up the obvious feature to a belay, 5.9, 150'.

P11. There appeared to be a few variations for one more pitch of climbing, we took one straight up on 5.7-5.8 climbing to a nice stance with one more difficult section above. A short section of 5.9 gets you off the route proper.

P12? Not really, but you are or should now be on one of the terraces and easy scrambling to get to the Nature Trail/Overlook on the rim.

Be prepared for strenuous climbing on the offwidth and the two pitches following it. Start as early as you can ,and you will still probably finish at or near dark. We began climbing @6:30 am and topped out at 9pm. We did a little simul-climbing on the first pitch to combine the first two (as the guidebook calls it) as one and combined pitches, 6-7, 8-9, and tried to for 10-11 but ran out of rope with our 60m cord. Make sure you are on top of your game; this is a strenuous, long day physically and mentally. The grades are "old school"; be ready. Helmets are a personal item, but I was glad I wore mine. You will not soon forget this climb or the day.

Kachina Wings is the beatufil corner system climbers right of

Journey Home

.  This line is amazing: steep, sustained, and very exposed.  There is no need for a topo, follow the corner system up to the terrace and break up the pitches how ever you want.  The pegmatite OW is the crux climbed at 10+ and is friendlier than it appears...but hey, it's still a 130' pegmatite OW, so tread lightly.

This is a amazingly sustained route that teeters on hard 5.9, easy 5.10 the whole way.  Excellent rock and good pro make for an enjoyable day, once past the serious first pitch.  This route is borderline grade III or IV.  The line is direct and easy to follow, but the sustained nature of it could make the day a little longer.   To find the start, look for the Ament's Chimney, the huge cleft that can't be missed.  Scramble up the exposed third class to the base of a large dihedral on the left side of the chimney.  This right-facing dihedral is

Kachina Wings

.  Traverse across a good ledge to its end.  The route climbs the left-facing dihedral above.  The first half of the route, until the chimney roof, receives shade all morning.  Note that I climbed this route with a 70m rope and stretched it several times.  Belays should be adjusted accordingly.

Pitch 1.  This is dangerous but not more so than most other Black pitches.  It can be done several ways.  Move up and left to an undercling, then back right to the dihedral and up to one of two ledges, the second being directly below the chimney capped by a roof.  The second ledge will require a 70m rope, a good way to go on this route.

Pitch 2.  Pass the roof and continue up and right to an uncomfortable belay.  I believe that you should belay above the pegmatite with a 60m in order to reach a large ledge after the next pitch.  This was the most strenuous move on the route.

Pitch 3.  Blast up the sustained 5.10- crack system which will eat just about any small to mid-size pro you throw at it.  Belay left on a large ledge.

Pitch 4.  Move back right and climb the short 5.9 offwidth and belay after.  I linked this and the final pitch and ended up kicking rocks off the loose ledges above onto my partner who was simulclimbing the 5.9 offwidth below my 100' runout.  It is best to do it in two.

Pitch 5.  Continue to large ledge 30' below the rim.

Traverse left several hundred feet and scramble to the top at the same 3rd class spot

The Cruise

finishes.

Twisted is one of the lesser known routes up the North Chasm View Wall. It is also not very well-described in the

Black Canyon Rock Climbs

guidebook. Pike Howard and I did this in 2003 and spent a fair bit of time figuring out where to go. We hope this helps.

P1. Ascend the first pitch of

Journey Home

(5.9), adequately described on this site and in the guidebook.

P2. (150 feet). Walk left a bit along the large belay ledge. Looking up, you will see the bottom part of a huge flake (it doesn't look that huge until you actually get into it). Face climb up and left until you can get your fingers in the crack, and then undercling and lieback left around the bottom of the flake (5.10, scary). Continue up the left side of the flake (5.9+, wide) to its end and then face climb up and left past two bolts (5.11b/c) to a stance next to a (somewhat loose) block on a ledge.

P3. Face climb straight right (5.10), and then ascend a crack to a ledge.

P4. Ascend the straight-in thin crack (5.12a or 5.11 A2) for about 50 feet then exit up and right on face moves (5.10+) to a ramp. Follow the ramp up and right to a ledge below a right-facing dihedral. I describe this as 5.12a, as that's what Pike suggested after working hard to free it on the lead.

P5. Stem the somewhat dirty, right-facing corner (5.11a) to a ledge.

P6. Face climb up and then left (5.10+, scary - particularly for the follower), well beneath the roofs that loom above you, to a ledge, and then work back up and right on face moves to gain access to easier ground above the roofs. Belay at a ledge. Note that the guidebook indicates some aid on this pitch and shows that the pitch ends at the top of a huge terrace. Somehow, a pitch was lost or something, because this pitch goes free at a relatively moderate grade and, at the end of it, you are still a pitch away from the terrace.

P7. At this point, you are at the bottom of a corner system. It was getting late for us, and we elected to traverse quite a ways right and eventually join up with

Journey Home

. I can't remember what the corner looked like, exactly, but my recollection is that this pitch would be at least 5.11.

P8. Continue up the last real pitch of

Journey Home

to gain the huge terrace. Walk tens of yards left along the terrace, and find an easy crack to exit to the top.

The Scenic Cruise is one of the very best routes I've done in Colorado. It ascends one of the steepest and biggest cliffs in the state, offering great jamming and devious, exciting face sequences. Factor in the adventure factor and sublime setting, and...you just have to climb it for yourself!

This is a detailed description replete with beta. If that bothers you, well, you know what to do....

[Edit: the current guide came out after this description was written and the pitches don't track precisely.]

Temperature-wise, spring and fall are the best times to do the route. May and September are probably the most common months. April and October may offer better temps, but also shorter days and less stable weather. November through March is reserved for hardpersons, June is dubious, and summer is strictly for sundogs.

The Scenic Cruise is actually a major 3 to 4-pitch variation to

The Cruise

, a route of 12 or so pitches that ascends the 1700' SE face of North Chasm View Wall.

The Cruise

was first ascended by Layton Kor and Larry Dalke in 1964, and christened the South Face. In the mid-'70s, Earl Wiggins and Jim Dunn free-climbed the route in 6 hours, and consequently re-named it "

The Cruise

". Three years later, Ed Webster and Joe Kaelin discovered the Scenic Cruise variation, thus avoiding a 5.10 offwidth pitch but adding spicy 5.10 face pitch. Amazingly, Wiggins then made the second ascent of the whole line with this variation-- in an hour and a half, free-solo!

To find the start of the route, descend the Cruise Gully. After the second rappel, continue following the base of the rock, down past the 4th class trough area that leads to the large unmistakable gash of Ament's chimney. Left of that, hundreds of feet up, lie the huge right-facing corner of Kachina Wings and the large left-facing corner of the Journey Home. Further left is the diagonal crack system of the Dylan Wall, and the more or less vertical cracks of the Cruise and Scenic Cruise.

The route begins a large, right-facing corner/groove, about 200 feet high, below the main crack systems. There is a flat rock and a bunch of poison ivy at or near the base. Above the corner is a low-angled, ledgy section; above that, the obvious diverging crack systems of

The Cruise

(left) and Scenic Cruise.

Only a couple of the belays are fixed and there are a LOT of different ways to pitch it out. What follows is suggested for those who will be at or near their limit on this climb. 9 or 10 pitches is reasonable for a stronger team onsighting the route, and I've noted common pitch combinations.

P1. Ascend the arete left of the corner, then step in and climb easily for a full ropelength to an uncomfortable belay.

P2. Climb over a 5.8 roof and go up over broken grassy ground, past fixed slings to belay on the last ledge below a much steeper wall section. The Scenic Cruise splits from

The Cruise

here. We simul-climbed these pitches, as do a lot of parties.

P3. Lead up and right over a 5.10- roof, and continue up the crack to a belay in a small inset. Or continue to belay on a ledge 50 feet higher...many do pitches "3, 4, and 5" as two long ones.

P4. Exit the inset on the left and jam the continuous crack for 100 feet to a small stance with some fixed gear, fantastic 5.10-.

P5. Jam the unrelenting but excellent hand and finger crack with many 5.10 sections, a harder version of the previous pitch. Considered the route crux by some. Belay in the pegmatite band.

P6. This has the infamous Pegmatite Traverse, which rejoins the Cruise--a classic Black Canyon pitch. The easiest path moves up from the belay and then slightly left, avoiding the more prominent corner w/fixed pin directly above. Ascend a short 5.9+ crack in the pegmatite (3 friend helpful), then hand-traverse inobviously left on slopers, also 5.9. This achieves a stance on a down-slanting ramp. Reach back and sling a horn above the slopers: your best protection through the pitch's upcoming crux. An obvious flake/arete lies left of the ramp; climb that and continue up another crack to a fixed belay with slings around a block.

A variation goes up into the corner/inset and traverses out and then down to the ramp at a fixed sling: reputedly harder, but easily aided with the sling. Either way, do not go all the way up to the top of the corner as this apparently leads to super sketchy shit.

Also, note that the Williams guidebook erroneously describes this as a rightward traverse, although the topo has it correct.

P7. Traverse 15 feet left and ascend a 5.10+ corner with sustained stemming and liebacking, some dubious rock, but adequate gear (generally considered the route crux). Make an awkward traverse right under a roof, and then ascend a hand crack in another corner. Above this continue up two sections of wider 5.8 (or belay, if out of gear and/or gas).

The FFA apparently climbed a thin seam through pegmatite to the right of this.

P8. The nice flat belay ledge has cracks leading up from either end, and both are climbable at about 5.8/9 with reasonable pro and quality (though the right has a nasty bush). Either way, above these continue up and left on easy ground and stretch the lead past a corner with several wedged blocks to a good ledge (or continue into the next pitch with a 70M rope, or brief simul-climbing).

P9. Go left on the ledge and make an exposed move to get to an alcove behind a massive flake. Chimney up and right to a new bolt belay. Clever rope handling is necessary on this short pitch.

P10. Follow a narrow, exposed ledge straight right, then angle up and right past three bolts with several insecure 5.9 moves. The last bolt is missing a hanger. Continue up and right through another pegmatite band to a nice belay ledge below a bulge leading into a groove. You can continue to the next ledge above the groove with a 60, although you'll face ledge-fall potential on the hard move into the groove.

P11. Make an awkward 5.9+ move into the chimney, continue to a ledge, and head left for about 30 feet to the next crack system; belay where convenient.

P12. Head up the crack/corner (with a fixed #3 Camalot) for a very long 5.9 pitch and arrange a belay. A variation which is often described as the standard line climbs gradually up and left from the ledge above the chimney on scary 5.9 face and flakes and rejoins the line.

P13. Continue up the crack system, trending slightly right (5.8 or 5.9). Or, take an overhanging 5.9+ corner over to the left. Scramble to the top!

The Black has a reputation for loose rock which is as a whole is well-deserved, but this route is pretty solid throughout, especially on the lower crack pitches. However, this is probably the most traveled route in the Black, so start early and wear a helmet!

P.S. the Peg Traverse has been oversold in some places as a death pitch. It's definitely spicy but not too hard or runout. It is not as dangerous as P1 of

Journey Home

, to compare to another Black trade route.

Happy Ending is a great finish to

A Midnight Summers Dream

, bumping the climb from 3* to 4*.  After topping the Sex Comedy variation, walk left briefly, and look for a thin chalky corner to climbers right of the offwidth. There's single bolt ~25 feet up.

Start with tricky stemming and liebacking on flaky rock leading to a few face moves beneath a bolt. Transfer back to the crack, fire the crux, then just before topping out, solve a final overhang. Bring a double length sling for a tree belay at the rim.  It is a little spicy at the start with plenty of gear but less-than-inspiring rock. A slung and extended #4 protects a traverse move before the bolt. This is harder and more sustained than the

AMSD

crux.

Happy Ending is also great as a single pitch if you're cramped for time. Downclimb or rap in from the last 5.6 pitch of

AMSD

using a slung tree (a 70m rope is required and barely gets you to the ledge). You can double rope rap from a tree directly above the route as well.

From Williams' book/my 2 cents: the route climbs leftmost of three crack systems, 20 ft left of Midsummer.

P1. Traverse left from 1st ledge 30 feet above gully. Gain crack system through moderate broken terrain, setup belay small grassy ledge right below base crack/pod system. 100.'

P2. Fire up pod/squeeze to gain finger/hand crack. you can either face climb or squeeze this first section, my partner leading it faced climbed with a powerful mantel move. Follow this system to base bombay chimney. 130'. Semihanging belay. Might be easier/more comfortable to belay lower.

P3. Squeeze chimney with PRO TCUs/Aliens follow moderate, broken, wandering terrain angling slightly [left] to large ledge base Sex Comedy pitch/

Leisure

route.

P4. Sex Comedy finish. Blast up steep, powerful, hand crack goes to fists. I exited left around the block halfway up the pitch and finished with 5.9 face move in right-facing corner above large flake that you just climbed over and top out to belay with red Camalots, 5.10.

Optional P5. Walk 60 yards west (left) which is way out and look for 1X4 foot pointed block. It's the first crack system L of the OW (Kuma Sutra?) Bouldery start to hands fingers, with exciting peg finish with stemming, 5.10.

A good route with a bit of scabby rock. A well protected 5.12 face climbing crux gives way to good technical corners. Nice position and exposure.

P1: Start up a rotten crack that leads to a square cut roof. Traverse left before the roof to join a cleaner crack with difficult small cam pro. Continue up and left to yet another corner and finally pegmatite ledges perched on the left edge of Aments Chimney. 5.11

P2: Daintily climb up blocks to place a high big cam. Then climb down and left, then up to a crack and a bolt. Climb to another bolt. Then step down and left on difficult face-climbing to clip a pin. 5.12-. Nebulous pro takes you up the arete to a stance below a shallow corner with a pin. Resist the temptation to lock up the red camalot sized part of the crack when you set up the belay. It will be an important footer for the first moves of P3.

P3: Make a difficult move off the belay. 5.11+. Climb the corner past several fixed nuts and a pin. A 5.11 stemming problem guards the stance for the belay.

P4: The slightly scabby corner continues for a rope-length to a good ledge down and left of an obvious OW corner. 5.11.

P5: Climb up to and layback and stem the wide corner (4.5 Camalot). 5.10+. Continue up and left on broken ground above. Belay on a large ledge below and right of the wide corner (Katchina Wings finish).

P6: Head up a wide open corner to a chockstone. Step left into an angling hand and finger crack. Belay on a large ledge. 5.10.

P7: Step left and head up 5.7 corners to easier ground and the huge tree ledge just below the top.

Walk left to find the 3rd class exit to the top.

This is one of the Black's trio of so-called "sport routes,"  labelled as such because there happen to be some bolts on the hard climbing. Don't be fooled -- there's plenty of spicy trad business on this line and even the world's longest telescoping stick clip probably won't get you much higher than the second belay. With three pitches rated 5.11 or harder and lots of 5.10, this route makes for a good, sustained challenge. Allow plenty of time (6-8 hours).

The route begins down and left of Apparition. To reach the start scramble up choss below the gaping Ament's Chimney, the large, ugly cleft about 100 yards below the second rappel in the Cruise Gully. Qualgeist climbs the faint arete feature out right of the chimney.

P1: (5.11) Situate yourself below the arete feature. Climb a slightly dirty crack (5.10) through black rock, then move left, climbing past two bolts on tiny crimpers. Step left across the chimney to a bolted belay stance on a ledge.

P2: (5.12b) A spectacular pitch, requiring lots of endurance. Climb the face/arete past 2-3 bolts and move right into a faint corner. Climb the corner, turn a huge roof/detached block (if this goes you're fucked!) and move up into a pegmatite groove, clipping a final bolt en route to a double-bolt belay over the lip of a huge roof.

P3: (5.10+) Climb a thin seam above the belay then neb out up the slabby face above, eventually reaching a decent belay ledge.

P4: (5.10) This pitch climbs up then moves a bit left into the gloom of Ament's chimney before tackling a brilliant, tapering black corner with perfect rock but not much gear. Move right at the top of the corner to a one-bolt belay, which can be backed up.

P5: (5.10+) More nebulous face climbing with the occasional good piece and some cryptic moves takes you up to a hidden belay alcove at the base of a splitter crack on a headwall. This headwall faces towards Ament's Chimney, not the Cruise Gully.

P6: (5.11+) Climb the splitter crack, which starts out as thin fingers before opening up into hands and what-not as it doglegs up to a good belay ledge. A long, pumpy pitch with some great crack climbing on it.

P7: (5.8) Walk left on the ledge and climb the ugly off-width. Move past this onto loose, easier ground and belay at the huge ledge/tier 100 feet below the rim. Scramble off on slabs to reach the rim proper.

This is fun and devious route which ascends the shortest section of North Chasm View Wall. It looks like a pile from the ground but has pretty good climbing and exposure on the first three pitches. The final pitches are very low-angled and loose, but go pretty fast if you find the easiest line. Be wary of climbing beneath another party on this route and also be aware that there have apparently been some bad accidents on the crux pitch which is runout and also easy to get off-route onto harder climbing.

Go down the Cruise Gully, and find the route shortly after emerging from the second rappel. The first pitch is identified by a right-facing 5.8 corner with a wide crack up high (avoid the harder crack systems and roofs to the left). Access P1 by scrambling up and left on blocky third class to a ledge.

P1. Ascend the large corner and belay on a grassy ledge at left.

P2. Take the obvious, acute left-facing corner above the belay (5.8). At its top, angle right on a ramp; it is best to belay halfway up the ramp.

P3. This is the devious crux: finish the easy ramp past hollow flakes and then cut back left on a ledge (best not to place any pro until back above the belay). Go up a left-facing corner with a flake/finger crack, toward a triangular overlap/roof. Angle rightwards where the corner ends, and climb further up a thin crack past the right end of the overlap, to a sloping ledge.

It is easier, but scarier to place pro in the crack and then traverse a ways back left to turn the roof on bigger holds.

Staying with the crack the whole way as it dies out is the more obvious line, but probably 5.10-something.

A good variation to this pitch moves up and left into the large right-facing corner of Midsummer Night's Dream's third pitch, which is great climbing. It's slightly harder than P3 of Leisure Climb but is better protected.

P4. Go right up easy ground a short ways (to avoid a steep section), then back left up a long, broken and bushy corner. Belay at its top, or (some simul-climbing required) go directly up fun face-climbing for about 35 feet to another good ledge.

P5. Go easily along the base of a steep cliff on 3rd class, then up a chimney to belay on the right end of huge, forested ledge (hard to see from the start of the pitch).

Finish by walking along the ledge to the left (west) for a considerable distance past steep headwalls until the ledge nearly reaches a deep cleft. An easy low-angle cliff accesses the canyon rim.

The Hallucinogen Wall received a lot of press after the protracted, epic-filled first ascent. It was a CLIMBING magazine cover shot and received a fair bit of sensationalism in the Western Slope newspapers.  The first ascent was an outstanding achievement for the period and included some of the most impressive aid climbing yet done in Colorado. One can only wonder what was going through Bryan Becker's head as he hooked ad nauseum on the crux lead well into the danger zone. (Given the route name, it's easy to guess at least one thing going through his head.)

Today it is THE wall route to do in the Black, and gets done a fair amount - although not in the Valley trade route sense. It is a beautiful line, taking a fairly direct route up one of the steepest and cleanest sections of rock in the canyon.  It has been climbed hammerless, rope-soloed many times, climbed in winter, and subjected to ruthless single-push timed efforts.

Even after many ascents there is still a funk factor, although the route has no doubt cleaned up considerably since the first ascent. There are some potentially dangerous blocks and flakes on pitch 11.  Otherwise there is little munge, pegmatite or bad rock- a bit down low and some up high. Most ascents are now clean, but bring a hammer should a fixed head blow.

Several "chicken" rivets have been added to the hooking pitches, and with the well-worn hook placements these blank pitches must be alot easier nowadays. One hooking strategy is to have a complete set of hooks on each of your aiders. This avoids fumbling as you find the right hook and try to remove it from the gear sling. You could also wear rock shoes and a chalk bag to use available face holds when high stepping. With all the hooking you end up doing, it's interesting to note that more than one climber has considered the crux of the route the final headwall rivet ladder, where one memorable rivet is bent down and almost completely out of its sleeve.

One of the most beautiful cactus colonies I have ever seen (anywhere) is directly on this route.  Please be careful crossing this clump of delicate plants and arrange your ropes to avoid it.  A mid- to late-May ascent may enable one of to see these in full bloom, a sufficently hallucinogenic experience in its own right.

A motivated competent party could leave Boulder after work and bivy on the rim that night, descend at dawn and start climbing, bivy at Fantasy Island day one, Happy Trails day two, then top out (and drive home?) on day 3.

Descend the Cruise Gully to beyond the toe of the Nose buttress and find a nice camp here amidst the poison ivy. There is a fire ring here but fires are technically illegal.  Bring iodine tablets and fill all your water bottles from the river.  Strategies vary, so depending on the hour, your motivation, and the general tao of the moment, fix pitches and camp here, or simply embark on your journey.

P1-P5:  Locate the line with the most bushes. This leads to a large obvious left-facing corner system.  There are several anchors along the way on the initial pitches, so depending on your rope length consider stretching it out.  Haul on the right wall.  The hauling is hell early on, so the second should be available to unstick the bags.  The climbing gets better fast, and after a choss section of 5.10 (or C2), includes some nice 5.10 wide crack climbing (easily aided) and a beauty of a 5.9 hand crack (P5).  A poor bivy stance exists between the wide crack and hand crack pitches.

P6:  Head left under a roof, then hook your way up the blank wall past several bolts to a roof with gear to lower off, and pendulum left into a right-facing corner leading to Fantasy Island.

P7:  Climb a L-facing corner system to a belay on a flake (a quick, relatively easy lead).  If you arrive early at Fantasy Island it may behoove you to fix this pitch to get a jump on the next days climbing.

P8:  A short stretch of sketch (most people will free climb this short section) leads to a beautiful L-facing dihedral.  The A3+ rating (a few fixed heads, some rattle-gear) is sometimes annotated with a "5.11" free climbing rating, but no way does this go as a 5.11 lead.  Belay at a cluster of bolts.

P9-P10:  More hooking and the like lead up into a vast blank "out-there" section of wall.  Very enjoyable climbing, some bolts, some route-finding issues (issues, issues, issues), but pretty much every time you're in doubt a little Braille search above will locate a bomber hook placements.  These are the original crux pitches of the route.

P11:  The cactus pitch, with perhaps a pin placement or 2, some loose blocks, and a traverse straight right at the top to reach Happy Trails bivy.  The start of this pitch is a bit spooky, runout on choss 5.9, but by now being spooked is feeling normal, so proceed with aplomb.  There is a bomber bolt to hang a ledge off at Happy Trails, great views below, an imposing wall above, and the ubiquitous but faint bivy odor of eau-de-climber.

P12:  Head off right from the bivy, up some fixed heads to a traverse right (awkward gear placements), and the notorious headwall- a very steep, exposed section of memorable climbing graced with some pretty funky fixed stuff.  Belay at a cramped spot below a huge roof.

P13:  Again, right and up from the belay, past an overhanging corner, some rivets, and a line of bolts.  This pitch eases off the higher you go, which is a nice feeling.

P14:  Climb through some blocky pegmatite, up and left to some awkward and slightly strenuous stuff, and belay at a bulge (this is where the free version of the Diagonal meets the route).  Although pin placements are suggested for this pitch, with not much trickery it is easily climbed clean.

P15-P16:  Enjoy the chossy 5.8 chimney munge above; you deserve it.  Find the line of least resistance from the terrace to the rim.  Fix the haul line, leave the haulbag (and your partner) hanging, and dash to the car for that cooler of beer.  Drink heartily, then return (with at least one cold one for your partner) to your final task of hauling the bag.

Follow th first 2 P's of stoned oven to the big chunky ledges, then drop down 15' and right 40' to the 3rd pitch.

P3- it shows this as the .11+ corner, its more like .11a and about 150' long, belay on ledge w/huge boulder.

P4- head up right facing 5.8 corner to roof heading right and then continue up right facing corner at about .9+ to another ledge belay, 150'.

P5- head up a left facing corner of sweet single and dbl. hand cracks to an optional belay on slab to the left 10' after a face traverse. we continued up the steep face and seam that exits to runout face moves and then back into the sweet dbl. corner of fingers at about .10+, the pitch was .12a, it was supposed to be .9. belay on good ledge at a flake that gear goes behind the top of. this was about 205'.

P6- head up a left facing corner for 20' then onto the face of sketchy flakes and face holds towards the arete, sick exposure!, then leftish back towards the left facing corner at about a heady .11b. about 100'.

P7- continue up the very shallow hand crack left facing corner at .10, then right under and around a 10' roof that turns the corner at about .10+. the whole time here you should be looking left right at the "enduro corner" of stoned oven. continue up the face at runout .9+. belay at the base of the off-hands crack of the 9th pitch in the guide. ( one could bail onto the stoned oven escape ledges at this point, as we did because of light and water).

P8- (P9 in the guide) looks sweet! heads up flared hand crack to the base of the O.W. pitch.

P9- climb the 4-7" o.w. for about 60' into the 4-5" 5.10 crack, then right to a hanging belay.

P10- head up a .10+/.11a left facing corner to the end of the "womb fight" area then a 5.9 ramp to the rim.

We tried this route twice, because of being off route the first time and the second not having enough light and water. we have consorted the guide topo and a topo that Leonard sent us and were on route the second time, but the grades were definitely "old school"!  this is a full value grade 5 and is totally worth the effort by worthy parties! I can't wait to finish it! a good strategy would be to rap down and leave water and food at the triangle belay at the o.w. pitch, pretty easy to find from leaning over the top of the wall. if anyone has any imput that i have gotton wrong, i would love know and/or update the post.

The MSV is a recommendable tour of the South face of North Chasm View.  Clean cracks and flakes on the Movable Feast--the kind of pitches one would actually climb on a cragging day-- link into the exposed upper pitches of the Stoned Oven via moderate rockaneering in gullies midway up the route.

Locating the start provided a few moments of uncertainty, although the information in the guidebook proved adequate and accurate as given. Once on route beta is sufficient; listed pitches are evidently long ones as even with a 70m cord we were unable to shave belay stances from the Movable Feast topo.  As the guidebook beta is basically accurate, I won't detract from your adventure by providing unnecessary minutiae.  I will add that on p.11 of the Stoned Oven we continued past the traverse move at the 1/4" bolt to belay around the corner on a spectacularly exposed ledge, which au cheval stance gives great views of the leader stepping across to a nice hand crack free of the rope drag which would have begun the pitch had we belayed from the bolt.

Thence follows the Womb Fight, a pitch that you pray your sport climber friends never catch you 'climbing', as it embodies all of the distasteful qualities for which bolt-clippers shun the rack.  An awkward, graceless wriggle across a dirty ledge brings your face perilously near to ammonial slicks of ancient guano.  The rope, your gear, all you've brought with you conspires to impede horizonal progress, while you struggle to clip dubious gear crammed between crusty flakes and dirt.  Your partner isn't quite laughing, knowing that he must follow it with the pack.  Hopefully no one across the way on the South Rim has binoculars.  Although this pitch is indisputably classic, I did wonder what lay directly above, where a peg dish with a bolt appeared to lead into more a conventionally vertical escape.  Anyone know about this one?

We were able to pull this off in 8 pitches, climbing at a moderate pace, with no threat of nightfall, so the Grade III tag sounds about right.  The 1300' figure includes a lot of moderate terrain and traversing; vertical gain is less.  I was pleasantly surprised by the quality of this route, and the way it enabled us to access incredible locations with a relatively moderate standard of climbing.

For the overall quality of stone, brilliant face climbing, and little if any munge, I would put Apparition near the top of the list of the best climbs I have done in the Black.

There was an excellent mini-guide in Rock & Ice No. 81 with a story about the FA of this route and an adequate topo. According to this: three hundred feet below the second Cruise Gully rappel, at the start of the traverse to Journey Home, begin the route at the second tree. It may be a little confusing to sniff out the start of the route.

P1. Climb unprotected 5.8 to a right-facing corner with some 5.9, to a ledge. This is a long pitch.

P2. Traverse up and right in an open book, then move up and left to a bolt.  Traverse straight left (5.10+) past 2 more bolts to a semi-hanging belay at 2 bolts (strangely, this anchor is just above a nice little stance). This is a patently dangerous pitch to follow; the second may want to practice the 5.10 moves still clipped into the first bolt, then unclip to follow - if you blow it you could swing a long ways and get hurt. Variation: Andy Donson climbed straight up from the belay (5.11c R or X) instead of doing the 5.10+ traverse, skipped the 2nd belay and joined the 3rd pitch.

P3. Move a little left, then climb a continuous stretch of difficult face past 4 bolts through a bulge, and punch it to the belay. This is brilliant climbing, 5.12b. There is a small flake which you crank on that may snap on somebody.

P4. This is the crux pitch. Climb a difficult (5.12a) right-facing corner with poor pro (RPs, TCUs) past a bolt, then follow the bolts through some of the best face climbing in the canyon, very spicy 5.12 b or c. The crux is a tenuous standup move on a tiny crystal, using a shallow, rounded crescent hold with your left hand and not much else. It is a long pitch ending at a nice ledge. This was bolted on the lead. Several very good climbers have backed down from this lead due to the fall potential from the crux.

P5. Climb up, clip a bolt, then follow a corner to 2 more bolts protecting some 5.11- face moves. Perhaps it is a little runout. Belay over a small roof.

P6. Move out and right with little gear, then go up (5.10+) to a belay below the obvious, overhanging corner capped by a massive roof.

P7. Climb up and into the corner, then pull a hard move (5.11b or c). At the top of the corner, head straight left to an amazing belay on the arete (2 bolts). This is a wild pitch.

P8. A mediocre pitch leads to the terrace.

P9. (Optional) Climb a vague 5.11 hand crack to the only tree on the rim.  It is better to just walk left and solo off.

I would recommend a stiff edging shoe for this climb. Also, catch it in the shade or when temperatures are crisp- it would be a total grease-fest if you tried it otherwise. Plan on 6 to 8 hours.

A Midsummer's Night Dream is an excellent, short climb which lies left of

Leisure Climb

.  The climbing is varied and sustained at the 5.9 level, with a short section of low-end 5.11 on P2.  With the "Sex Comedy" finish, a great pitch of 5.10 can be done instead of trending right into the very mediocre exit pitches of the

Leisure Climb

.  Afternoon shade, a short "approach", and fast, well-protected climbing add up to a nice afternoon romp, something to do if you arrive at the Black in mid-morning and feel compelled to leave the beer cooler and campground.  It is far better climbing then either

Leisure Climb

or

Musical Partners

(its neighbor to the left).

Locate the middle of 3 obvious crack systems just below the 2nd rap in Cruise Gully.  Scramble 30 feet 3rd Class to a ledge to start.

Pitch 1 is nice 5.8/5.9 corner and crack climbing.  Belay on a small ledge.

Pitch 2 climbs the crack and bulge, tricky, strenuous, but good pro, moving up and slightly right past a fixed pin to a belay stance.

Pitch 3 climbs excellent 5.8/5.9 up a wall right of the prominent, right-facing corner (some interesting fixed stuff, including a beak!), into the corner past some overhangs, then steps left to belay (with a 70m rope you can keep going to next belay).

Pitch 4 climbs 5.6 rock, clean and fun, up the buttress - do not trend right into

Leisure Climb

- to a "green" wall below a steep, sharp, hand-sized crack formed by a flake splitting the vertical gray wall above (this is "fresh" stone,

i.e.

somewhat newly fractured).

Pitch 5 climbs the splitter, a bit of jamming, liebacking, etc., stepping right around a small pinnacle, then up to a short, 5.10- face move to finish on the large terrace.  Have doubles to 3.5", and perhaps a 4" cam, for this pitch...great exit pitch of 5.10.

Exit: walk left 150', around the corner to the exit slab to the actual rim.

Whereas

Leisure Climb

and

Musical Partners

are forgettable, mediocre routes, this one is very worthwhile - even worth repeating (a distinction in the Black).

The Dylan Wall leads right out of the 4th pitch of the

Scenic Cruise

and connects with the second pitch of

Journey Home

. The independent pitches are 5.11+, 5.12-, and 5.7. The 5.11+ pitch has some scaly rock, but it seldom effects the climbing. The 5.12- pitch is technical and on stellar rock. Combine this with Twisted for a bigger day.

P1: (after the

Scenic Cruise

) Climb right from the belay and join the crack system on a pedestal. Thin pro and climbing leads to a shallow, leaning dihedral. 5.11 PG-13. Climb through steep hands and fingers to a corner with a jammed block. 5.11+. The belay requires a 3 Camalot, 1/4" piece, and a medium nut. 140'

P2: Climb a thin dihedral to a fixed nut and pin. Technical moves gain a thin crack finish. 5.12-. 70'

P3: Up and down on 5.7 traversing right leads to the middle of pitch 2 on

Journey Home

. 90'

Pitch 2 and 3 can be combined, but the second will get a pretty loose belay on the the crux moves.

This is one of my favorite climbs in the Black, and probably has the most difficult crux pitch of any route in the canyon (although the H-Wall is much more sustained overall). There's lots of good climbing, so it's worthy even if you A0 through the crux pitch, in which case the route is 12- A0.

It's a relatively short route, but it's nice to catch the crux in the shade, so an early start on warm days is recommended. It gets sun around 12:30 in the spring, likely earlier in the fall.

Tommy Caldwell did the second free ascent with me, a few months after I did the FFA. I don' think anyone else has free climbed it, but you never know. It deserves more attention.

P1. There are three options: climb the wide crack on the right side of a pillar, 10+; climb the left-facing, slicer flake just right of the open book, 11; or stem up the open book, 10+ (my favorite option). Belay at some fixed gear on a nice stance below a small roof, 60 meters.

P2. This is an awesome pitch. Climb easy rock to some techy stems. Avoid the chimney on the left, and transition into a left-facing flake then a right-facing corner above--super fun 5.10+. Belay at a small stance, 11+, 55 meters.

P3. Another nice pitch. Head out onto the left wall of the book past a steep bit of wide crack, which eventually fades into a seam and some face moves. Stop at an uncomfortable hanging belay at some bolts, 55 meters, 11+.

P4. The crux; a piece or two leads to into a steep, fading corner, and bolts through a black bulge--awesome, devious, crimpy climbing somewhere in the V8/9 range. (This pitch can be easily french freed at 12- A0.) Belay at a nice ledge, just 20 meters above.

P5. Spicy face climbing past a few bolts eventually leads left into right-facing corner with a fixed nut. Belay atop a small pillar, 30 meters, 10+ R. This is the last truly cool pitch, but hey it's the Black, so 5 out of 7 makes it a classic!

P6. This has tricky route finding. Head up the fading corner above, and then traverse straight left across two flakes to a large, right-facing feature. Climb up this corner to a pegmatite flake, now traverse right to a seam on a subtle arete, and find a belay stance just above, below a steep, right-facing flake that's a bit chossy looking. 35 meters, 5.10 with a bit of spice.

P7. Pull the bulge/flake above, and meander to the top, 60 meters, 10-.

From here, the easiest way off is to traverse across a bushy ledge and scramble to the rim via a 4th class chimney.

The crux is definitely the shared last pitch of "

Hallucinogen

", 12-. There is a chossy .11 crux with bolts and pins in the middle of the route. It's basically a big adventure outing, fun, and has great views of the wall and other routes. There is some simuling and pitches of 250-400' at times but with easy chimneys and such.

The Free Hallucinogen Wall is fully MEGA! The climbing is unique, thoughtful, wildly exposed and just plain fun. As far as big wall free routes, this is one of the best in the country.

The "R" rating is totally dependent on the integrity of the fixed gear. On many of the pithes, your only protection is fixed copperheads, nuts, and pitons. The climbing is exciting, and large run-outs are to be expected. This route deserves respect. If going ground-up, you want to be a solid, 5.12+ onsight climber. A ground up effort would make the overall experience harder and much more committing.

Everyone that I know who has done the route has rappelled in from the top and worked many of the pitches on top-rope (including myself). With chalk on the holds and knowledge of the climbing, the H-Wall is very reasonable.

P1-P3. Start on a big, right-leaning ramp, 240 feet of 5.8. The next few pitches are blue collar 5.10+ Black Canyon climbing.

P4. Climb up a corner above belay, and traverse left under a small roof. Continue up 5.11 face climbing to fixed sling. Traverse left on thin holds to another bolt. 5.12- downclimbing gains Fantasy Island.

P5. Awesome, 5.12- face climbing protected by bolts to a thin corner (sometimes wet) past a small roof. Easy climbing leads to an aid anchor, keep climbing on 5.11R to a two bolt anchor at a nice stance.

P6. This pitch has wild face climbing with lots of fixed copperheads. A very cool 5.12+ arch is the crux. Belay at a shitty hanging stance on bolts.

P7. Next up is more run-out 5.12+ climbing with bolts and fixed heads. There are several crux sections separated by good rests. Belay at a nice ledge with bolts.

P8. An awkward 5.12 boulder problem protected by a bolt leads to maybe the most dangerous move on the route. Clip a copperhead that has been driven into a bolt hole, and do a tricky 5.12 move to a jug rail. If this heads rips, there are some ledges that you could hit. Continue up 5.11R corner, and traverse right to the belay ledge.

P9. Awesome 5.12 climbing with fixed heads to a big roof traverse out right on jugs. Bust out of the roof and onto a stunning face that is protected by bolts. Ascend thin, pumpy, and totally fun 5.13- to a shitty hanging belay just bellow a huge roof.

P10. Pull around the roof and traverse hard right on 5.12- terrain. Look for a two bolt anchor with a good foot ledge, this is the best place to belay for the crux pitch.

P11. The money pitch! There are three very different crux sections on this pitch. All of the hardest moves are well-protected by bolts. The last 30 feet is the hardest and very condition dependent. If you catch this pitch while it's in the shade or on a cloudy day, it makes a HUGE difference. Belay at small stance on bolts, 5.13b/c.

P12. Ascend very steep, 5.12- R climbing past a roof to some run-out 5.10 climbing. Belay on bolts on a good ledge.

P13. Finish with horrible, 5.10 R groveling to the top.

The crux is reach-dependent, a .12 or .13 leftward traverse.

This route has bullet hard, perfect, face climbing the entire way (except maybe the 1st and last pitch). There are a few runouts, but any falls would be clean. It would be best to have temps no higher than 60s!

Having used the "Walk of Shame" to get back to the rim on my last three out of four trips to the Black, I feel like I'm well qualified to give the Beta. The Walk, essentially, is the Cruise Gully in reverse.

An inevitable precursor to the "Walk of Shame" is to first bail off your route of choice; how high you climb before you do this is totally up to you. Last time down I was so eager to do The Walk that I lowered off a piece halfway up the first pitch.

Once safely back on terra firma below North Chasm View Wall, head back into the Cruise Gully, battling slippery boulders, loose scree and poison ivy. Notice the parties climbing swiftly and confidently on the walls above you: Don't they look happy?

This is not for you. Keep walking.

At the base of the first rappel, move right into a decomposing gully/chimney (5.4). Step left at the top, passing the rappel chains (grab the fixed line if it's in place), to get back into the main gully. VS with no rope, perhaps S if you lead it. Classic.

Walk up about 150 feet to the base of the second rappel. Climb the slippery, dirt-covered chimney until you can either step right or left (exposed) onto easier ground. Wander up ledgy territory until you're just below the chain anchors, where a delectable mantel move (5.5) gets you over the hump. VS, again, with no rope. Probably semi-safe with one. Ultra-classic.

Continue up mixed (dirt, scree, talus) terrain to the Rim, and the campground. You've really earned that beer ... boy, howdy!

Sell rack on E-Bay and/or go to Rifle.

P1 - this is nice ballsy run-out face climbing to the right onto the arete for a .11+ crux. Sweet! Belay on a face under an obvious splitter crack, 130'.

P2 - climb splitter for about 120', belay on ledge with boulder on it, .11+.

P3 - climb .10 hands for 120' to a crack switch, belay on arete.

P4 - this is the crux! Climb up and through vertical to slightly overhanging 30' peg crack, .12a crux is at the bolt. Then turn into the right crack system of

Kachina Wings

, 150'.

P5 - climb up big, right-facing corner system for about 170'. The .10 crux is a o.w. layback about 10' over the gear if any...not that tough.  Belay under roof or climb the final 40' of easy 5.7-.8 to the terrace. Traverse terrace to the overlook. Drink beers!

This is the best crack route I have tried thus far, but it is shorter than "

Stoned Oven

"!!! This is sustained at the grade!

This is a really good route that needs to get done more. The climbing is fun and will clean up nicely with more traffic.

P1: Start in a short, left-facing corner that turns into a more straight-in crack. Climb this, then move right into another crack leading up to and through a roof with a nice hand crack. Continue up the hand crack to a nice ledge and belay (~130', 5.10).

P2: Move up and right past a short, right-arching crack, then wander up and right on loose and junky rock to a small stance/ledge and belay (~200', 5.7).

P3: Weave your way left on black rock to the base of an obvious, left-facing corner and belay (~50', 5.9).

P4: This is the 1st Ear pitch. Climb the nice, left-facing corner (fingers/hands) to below the ear. Undercling/layback left around the ear, continue a little right and belay at a ledge (~130', 5.10).

P5: The 2nd Ear.

This pitch does have some bird shit on it.

Move up/right into another nice, left-facing corner (fingers-cups). Climb this to below the second ear. Jam/undercling left around the ear to where the crack pinches. Make a delicate move left into another crack and continue up to a semi-hanging belay (~140', 5.10+).

From here, traverse right to a ledge atop the first pitch of

Journey Home

(~50', 5.7). The original finish follows

Journey Home

to the rim. For a more challenging day, continue up

Twisted

.

Air Guitar is another great plum picked by Topher and Jared. With an independent start to gain

The Diagonal

ledge system, freeing a pitch of High and Dry (P9), and eventually joining Air City for the classic Slicer pitch and subsequent finish. Be prepared for some adventurous climbing on 5.11 terrain a little ways out from your gear, lots of 5.12, and a real kick in the pants on the P15 roof, just when you thought it was over. The P13 stemming corner is about as good as it gets!

Originally freed over two days, I believe it has yet to see a one day, free ascent. Parties aiming for a one day ascent should plan for a big day. I recommend starting in the dark and running big links and/or simulclimbing much of the bottom half.

See attached topo. NOTE: one pin from P9 fell out on our ascent, and there is only one pin on P13 which is questionable at best. That said, both can still be led safely.

The crux is the OW, inversion roof (say hi to Barbie) on the second to last pitch that slopes downward as it heads out!

It is a sweet route that goes fast on the lower 5 pitches of

Air Voyage

and progressively gets tougher as it heads to the top.

(I will insert pitch details later.)

If you're looking for the full-body workout, you could do worse than venture up Air Voyage.  The route is most notorious for a 60-foot-long section of offwidth on the 10th pitch that is rated 5.12-. All of the hard climbing on this route is, in fact, wide.

Overall, the climbing is rather strenuous but nothing special for the first 7 pitches.  Then things change.  The next 5 pitches are interesting and/or hard.  There is no reason to bring anything larger than a #4 Camalot until the crux offwidth pitch, so leave these in the pack until then.  The follower (with the pack) will hate his/her lot in life for much of the climb.

I was unable to actually free the crux offwidth when I recently did this climb with George Lowe.  I had led this pitch free with relative ease; however, in 1991 with Clean Dan Grandusky and then again in 1992 with Tom Dickey.  I'm interested in hearing how folks have fared on this thing.

Descend the Cruise Gully, and hike down all of the way around the nose of the North Chasm View Wall and then around a buttress where the wall comes closest to the river.  You will then begin hiking up for a few hundred feet where you will see a bushy, right-leaning ramp on your right.  Ascend the 4th-class ramp for about 300 feet to its top.  You're at the right spot to rope up when you see a lot of orange-colored lichen on a face with a finger crack running through it.

P1.  Traverse a bit right and then climb up some mixed face and crack to a good ledge about 130 feet above the start.  The crux (5.9+) is a hand crack towards the end of the pitch.

P2.  Work up and left (5.8) for about 60 feet to a small ledge at the base of a right-facing dihedral.

P3.  Climb a full-length pitch up the dihedral (strenuous 5.9) to its top.  The top is a large, boulder and cobble strewn ledge.  Two old, 1/4-inch bolts can be anchored to but camming anchors can be found to the climber's left of the bolts.

P4.  Work up and a bit right on 4th-class terrain for about 60 feet to the base of a contorted crack.  Climb the crack (5.8) for about 60 feet to a good stance (save a #4 Camalot for the belay).

P5.  Continue up the crack for about 35 feet then traverse straight left to gain access to an obvious right-facing corner system.  Continue up the corner for about 60 feet (5.10, wide) to a good ledge behind a flake.

P6.  Continue up the corner (strenuous 5.9+, 3-4 inch) to a hanging belay.  There is enough rope to get to a decent ledge 45 feet higher, but, chances are, you've already used up any gear larger than a number one Camalot.

P7.  Continue up the corner for 45 feet past a roof (5.10) to a good ledge.

P8.  This is the best (and second-hardest) pitch on the climb.  Climb up the right-facing corner for about 60 feet (5.10 wide), then work left along a thin crack (5.11-) to a 3-4-inch crack near an arête.  Climb the strenuous crack past an offwidth section (5.11b/c) to a large ledge.

P9.  Traverse straight left along the ledge (5.8), which thins and requires some balance moves in order to gain access to an even larger ledge directly below the obvious crux offwidth.

P10. This is the defining pitch of Air Voyage.  The 60 feet of 6 - 8- inch wide crack is not all that scary-looking.  It's just vertical and is an obvious left-side-in offwidth.  When I did this in 1991 and 1992, there was a fixed tube chock about 20 feet up, and I remember just going for that tube chock and then running it out (maybe with one larger cam in between) until a #4 Camalot could be placed about 60 feet up.  More recently, armed with the biggest camming devices available (but with more weight, age, and less intestinal fortitude) I mostly aided the beast using a #6 Camalot (which will fit the entire way up), a #5 and #4.5 Camalot  (which fit here and there), and a couple of Big Bros.  It isn't pretty, but it really isn't all that hard to aid.  You can elect to finish this pitch all of the way up the now 4 - 5-inch-crack or make a hanging belay using #4 Camalots just above the offwidth section (wired nuts and/or a 1/2-1-inch cams will also fit here).  I've done it both ways, and, for this description, I have elected to break up the pitch into two.  The reason you might want to do the hanging belay is that you can use the #4.5 and #5 Camalots in the crack above.  By the way, the fixed tube chock is no longer there, nor are the fixed wires at the top of the offwidth (indicated in Derek Hersey's topo, attached)

P11.  Follow the straight in 4 - 5-inch crack (5.10, strenuous) to its end and then traverse right under the roof (5.10) to a very exposed hanging belay.  The last part of the traverse is a stomach crawl.

P12.  Climb a 3-4-inch crack for about 50 feet (5.10+) then move right under a roof (5.8).  This is the semi-famous Womb Fight section, so named because you crawl on your belly to gain the other side of the roof.  There is a large ledge that awaits you immediately after the belly crawl.

P13.  Walk up the right-leaning ramp for about 40 feet and then ascend the broken face with cracks (5.9) to the top.

Colorado Welcome Party climbs the right margin of the clean, sweeping wall left of and just beyond the Cruise Gully rappels (

i.e.

left of

Leisure Climb

,

etc.

).

Early morning and mid-to-late afternoon shade.  Plan on 4-6 hours round-trip from the rim. Fixed and bombproof belay (i.e. rappel) anchors are not in place.

Descend the Cruise Gully to immediately past the second rappel. Third class a short, grassy R-facing corner to a ledge system below three obvious crack lines (the

Leisure Climb

/

Mid-Summer's Night Dream

/

Musical Partners

cluster), then head up and left (short stretch of 5th class) to a higher ledge. Belay left along this before obvious boulders, and just below some bolts.

P1. Scratch past 2 bolts (5.11-) to a right-facing corner (runout but moderate climbing in corner), clip a third bolt and a fixed head, and mantle into the land of no-return. Now slither across the wall right, past 2 more bolts and an ambiguous crux section of minimalist edging. Prance straight up and belay at a small stance, with gear for anchors. Long runners are necessary to reduce rope drag on this weaving pitch. This is classic and challenging face climbing.

P2. Climb to a small overlap (fixed pin, 5.10+/5.11-), then up and left.  Continue up (avoid the tendency to climb off right) to belay at a stance with a bolt. This is nice climbing and a long pitch. Mild fuzziness.

P3. Climb runout 5.10, then blast through two peg bands (more scary 5.10) to a small hanging stance with slightly funky gear anchor. This is a classic pitch of pure, unadulterated Black Canyon climbing.

P4. Punch up a section of strenuous, runout 5.10 through an overlap and into some hanging corners. Now finesse your way through the roof above (5.11 but contrived and kind of a pile) or step right near a big hanging block, then back up and left.

P5. Exit to the terrace, then walk and scramble off left.

I went to climb the Jim Beyer's route "Black Planet, VI 5.11 A4d" in March of 2001, a treasured adventure. At a point early in the route, I decided to follow what I saw as the reasonable line. I did the same again at the top when the topo ran out of topo 2 pitches from the top. The crux pitches were obvious. As I edit this 14 years after my ascent, I'm unsure it deserves to be called an independent route?

At 24 yearrs old, my views were different :)

Start up the

Air Voyage

/diagonal ramp for two pitches, 400 feet, 5th class.

P3. chimney as per Black Planet, short pitch.

P4. Beak and hook left and slightly down until a solid TCU is reached.  Penji off this to an A1 corner, back clean, belay.  I believe Black Planet moves straight up off this belay (belay 3), I saw fixed heads above me.  The belay is shared.

P5. Climb up 20 feet of sweet LAs to a point were the crack runs out. Hook left into free climbing. Belay on a ledge.

P6.  Dance left, belay on a ledge. This is a natural bivi.

P7. Climb a mega, 5.6ish flake.  Downclimb left side of flake, and run it out up to the big ledge.

P7a. Move belay to right side of ledge.

P8. Maybe it is new, maybe not, this is 5.8 R for sure and climbs directly to the leftward rail traverse on

Air Voyage

.

P9. Black Planet pitch. There is bad rock requiring 5.10 climbing.

P10. Black Planet pitch. Boulder off of the belay with no gear. Belay below desperate seam on ramp.

P11. Black Planet pitch, Beyer A4+, thin heads in the long seam. I added one bolt 6' below what I believe to be Beyer's natural anchor, having missed it in darkness.

P12 Black Planet pitch, my favorite on the route.  Heads in a seam end in a A2 grovel.  Belay behind large flake.

P13. Black Planet 5.11 pitch.

P14. Unclear where the Beyer route goes, Robbie Williams told me it connects into Air City roof here.  I moved straight right off of belay and negotiated the roof. BIG AIR!!! ending in OW groveling.

Beyer's topo indicates you have topped out now, I found two more pitches.

P15. Steep. mixed free and aid climbing culminates in a difficult guano mantle. Turn the roof into the horizontal bands. I drilled 2 rivets to breach a peg band.

P16. Some free climbing, pulling on gear in a womb slot, and a nice hand crack deposit you on the rim.

1 bolt was added at the belay 11, 2 rivets on P15 = total hole count.

White devil on a black planet.

Consult Vic Zeilman's excellent guidebook for an accurate topo and route description. This post is meant only to provide a few more pertinent details for would be suitors.

The route is quite good, particularly in its middle section. However, the first four pitches are mostly terrible. The second pitch is especially gross. Unless you like sharp crumbly squeeze chimneys followed by pigeon poop groveling, I would strongly recommend approaching the route via the

8th Voyage of Sinbad

. With the

8th Voyage

start, it's among the higher quality 5.12s in the Black.

Some additional notes to Vic's description and topo:

Pitch 5 (the first 5.12 pitch) is spicy. There is a RP placement up and left of the 3rd bolt that lessens the spice a bit, but expect some heads up climbing.

It is best to extend pitch 5 another 50 feet to a stance just above a small pricker bush (or do this as an additional short pitch). Otherwise you will have lots of rope drag for the pitch 6 crux.

Pitch 7 is also heads up with some potential to hit a pillar and ledge below you on hard-ish terrain.

Pitch 9 is the only unpleasant pitch in the upper portion of the route. It has a nasty midway bush, sharp crumbly "coral" covered rock and ends at a semi-hanging belay. Wear hand jammies or tape, and be prepared to grovel a bit.

We didn't climb it, but finishing via the

Stoned Oven's

final direct version looks pretty good (at least to start) and would be a nice way to avoid the Womb Fight. Apparently it's useful to have a tiny offset TCU or Alien to help protect this pitch.

The route took us 10-ish hours at a relaxed pace, although approaching via the

8th Voyage

would likely be significantly quicker.

Description

Protection

Routes in North Chasm View Wall