Peanut butter start to a ledge, skip first bolt if you are comfortable to reduce eventual rope drag.   blast up the steep pillar/arete feature.  Getting out of the crack and onto the face is the crux, but hang on cause the angle is steep and the holds are just big enough to cruise but small enough to pump your arms out if you dawdle.  Great positon and feature.  Fun climbing!

Architects on Acid

Barcelona

Wyo Disco

I Fought the Law

Espantabruja (The Witch Scarer)

Rattlesnake Shake

Pigs in Zen

A fun "dis-crack-tion" from the norm begins with a crunchy crack/corner leading to a ramp and an overhanging wall. The anchor can easily be accessed via a short (8 ft) bolted traverse from Architects's anchors. The original penultimate sinker flake (which kept Barcelona at 10+) is now gone. You can use it if you retrieve it from its resting place among the bushes at the base, and have enough intention and Super Glue (R) to re-attach it.

This is the variation where you link "I fought the Law" and "Pigs in Zen" in one monster pitch with 27 bolts.  You can probably get away with 20 draws, since it is easy to back clean in a number of places.  A couple longer slings are handy to reduce drag.

Rap twice to the ground...

If you continue on with Pigs in Zen this makes for a 4 star route.

Climb the blunt pillar through a low crux then a long cruiser section with sinker pockets as the pillar narrows and belay at a bolted anchor.

Continue with Pigs...

Start up the wall right of the corner.  The holds get bigger as the wall gets steeper, until you are pinching and plugging some of the best pockets around.  Great steep finish!

great crack climb with lots of little puzzles to figure out here and there.

The second pitch to I Fought The Law.

Head straight up from the belay staying on the pillar reaching a bulge crux just below the anchor.

Two raps with 60m rope

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Gaudi Park