Climb easily up a crack 20' to a nice ledge.  Watch the first moves off the ledge - they're thin and you are risking a ledge fall before clipping the first bolt.  A couple bolts and a flake protect the face section before a 15' traverse left at a horizontal that takes gear.  This will lead you to the real deal of the climb - a long, steep and difficult hand crack with very bad feet and few real rests.  The final 15' has a surprising slabby and heady crux with difficult gear.

 Rock quality is overall good but some holds are suspect - we did have some hold breakage.  Part of the character of this route is definitely navigating which holds to use and how to use them.

 I originally thought the route was going to be 5.6 face climbing with a 5.8 hand crack.  Turned out to be 5.9 face climbing with a 5.11 hand crack.  Hence the name.

Second Impressions Last Longer

Thigh as a kite

An interesting off width climb, start in the chimney at the left end of the wall before making the step across to gain the OW. Committing moves lead to a 5-6 inch crack. Needles style rappel off the top of the route. Depending on your style, you may find yourself levitating. 

The Swindler's Wall is a wall/spire immediately to the Northeast of Jack-in-the-box (across from the Conn route.)  It can be identified by the multiple cracks.  It is quite tall on the South side.  A 5.0 route exists to the summit on the Northeast side.  The only route on this wall so far (Second Impressions Last Longer) is South facing.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Swindler's Wall