Climb

Callan's Crack

through the crux boulder and into the crack. Hand traverse right when eye-level with the third to last bolt on

Midnight Ride

. Then climb

Midnight Ride

to the anchor.

Callan's Ride

Staircase to Nowhere

Callan's Crack

Midnight Ride

J. F. K.

Departed

Wicked Pissah

Bean Town Beat Down

Poison Swoop

Tea Party

Hayden House

Cradle of Liberty

Paul Revere

Callan's Crack is a stand-out pitch of incredible face and crack climbing on creamy orange and white granite. This route takes a full bag of technique, fitness and mental fortitude to survive its epic 36 meters.

Climb some less-than-desirable rock past two bolts to a nice, left-facing corner. The corner leads to a bulge with a bolt before a rest on a nice foot ledge. Continue on fun face climbing before the crux traverse moving up and right to the base of the obvious splitter. Amazing thin hands, laybacking, and perfect hands leads to the anchor.

Staircase to Nowhere was named after an ornate staircase at the Boston Stock Exchange.

Start with a series past a bunch of ledges to the start of the headwall. Tricky moves on sidepulls and techy feet leads to cruxy midway mantel. Big moves on good holds lead to a thuggy final boulder before the easy, left-facing corner to the chains. This route would be 3 stars if not for the ledges.

Midnight Ride is a stunning line up a swath of orange and white granite. Start by climbing

Tea Party

to its anchor. From there, move up into a lef-angling seam. The crux involves small feet, gastons, and a palm smear until the seam is big enough to undercling again. The top portion is around 12b and has some of the most airy and exposed moves in the canyon on really big holds.

J. F. K. has good technical face climbing on quality brown and orange stone. That being said, the crux at the 6th bolt has some soft rock, but several holds will never break. It is as good as

Departed

but steeper overall.

Departed is another fantastic face and slab climb that will test your fingers and toes.

Start with some easy ledgey terrain until the wall starts to steepen. Fun 5.11 climbing leads into a hard move to a gaston getting over a bulge. More 5.11 climbing leads to a ledge and the first anchor.

The extension is probably 5.12+ if you're 6 feet tall or taller. It is very height-dependent and maybe impossible for shorter folks. It is unfortunate to say the least, since the extension holds incredible, pocketed granite with lots of cool jugs.

Wicked Pissah is a shortie, but it is worth the effort. This has steep and powerful compression climbing on beautiful slopers. Bring your fast twitch muscles, and start squeezing!

This route follows

Callan's Crack

halfway up and then arcs left into a sweet, techy, roof bulge that will beat you down if you didn't have your Boston baked beans that morning. Power through the sequence over the bulge to find yourself trusting feet on the slab and following a finger crack up to a small, sloping ledge. A few easier moves up left will have you finishing the beat down with a tricky left traverse to put you below the anchor.

Poison Swoop is another stunning face climb on a wall with a ton of them. It is only marred by some soft rock and some poisoned holds.

BETA SPOILER:

Right off the bat, it is deceptively tricky and involved. A funny hop off the ground gets you to a hollow jug followed immediately by a tricky and somewhat reachy boulder problem to gain the right-angling, sloper rail. Slap and smear your way out this obvious rail feature to a good stance or sit at its end. Build high feet, and traverse back left on the poisoned holds (aka chipped/manufactured) to the crux jump move. A good rest is followed by an unusual boulder problem off a tricky left hand wrap/sloper. Another jump to a massive jug leads to pumpy climbing up the seam to the massive jug underclings and the anchor.

The 3-bolt extension to the anchor on

Bean Town Beat Down

is an open project. The boulder problem at the anchor of Poison Swoop is very short (1.5 moves) but extremely powerful.

Does face climbing get much better?

Start with a tricky move to gain the ledge above the first bolt. Continue on punchy 5.12 climbing through the grey stone to reach another ledgey zone. From here, perfect white stone leads into the crux dyno move. Excellent, reachy face climbing above the dyno leads to the anchor.

The name comes from the famous Boston stop on the Underground Railroad.

Start with a nice section of crack climbing on fingerlocks and jams. Continue past some ledgy terrain to a short, left-facing corner. Stem your way up, and reach for a just out-of-sight jug. Surmount the bulge to the anchor.

DISCLAIMER: the crack at the beginning requires actually jamming skills, it may feel much harder for the 5.10 sport climber lacking in said skills.

Cradle of Liberty is a stunning line up an epic swath of orange and white streaked granite. It is one of the best routes in the canyon I have ever seen, complete with some of the most unique hole/pocket features I've ever seen on granite. This is a true 40 meter outing that will test your mental and physical abilities across the board.

Start by climbing

Hayden House

with two ropes or both ends of a single 70m rope. At the

Hayden House

anchor, drop one rope and continue onto the Cradle with your remaining 70m or 80m rope clipped into the anchor and first bolt. Traverse right until you can start the first crux moving into and out of the large, undercling flake. Pumpy climbing leads to the middle crux which revolves around a huge move to a slopey gaston followed by another reach or jump to a massive double pocket feature. Airy 5.12 climbing leads up to a rest before the final crux bulge. A tricky gaston sequence leads into two slopey crimps that guard the final jugs and the run to the anchor.

This route is amazing, and I don't think I will ever get tired of climbing on it.

Paul Revere is a 42 meter outing on fantastic shapes and colors of really unusual granite. This is endurance face-climbing at its best.

Start by climbing "

Tea Party

, 13a". From that anchor, move up and right on decent edges to reach a large, angled rail. Perform the crux compression/jump move to a nice, flat, brown jug. Fun but pumpy 5.12 climbing leads directly into the final crux of "

Cradle of Liberty

, 13c".

Description

Protection

Routes in Orange Wall