Start on a hand crack and move into long moves to jugs.  Mid route, navigate a wide section, then finish by utilizing horizontal holds and any kind of finger jamming you can manage.  This is a short route, but every bit as classic as the surrounding lines at Orchard.

Shiny Faces

Springboard

Optical Illusion

Anal Clenching Adventures

Triple Treat

Bisect

Hysteria

White-Out

Portly Gentleman's Route

The Mighty Stoat

Lewd Operator

Total Sex Package

God of Fire

Bisected Anus Toprope

(Note: I've not done this underloved line, but have added it since it recently got new top anchors added. -pnelson)

This is the obvious crack a few dozen feet to the left of Shiny Faces. It's short, steep, and flared, and looks pretty legit for the grade. Get on it!

Sequential finger tips climbing off the ground leads to a larger hand crack and stances.  Follow plumb line to the anchors found to the left of the crack.

This short route packs quite a punch.  A couple moves off the ground gets you to a stance under the roof.  A hard pull off the stance will take you through decent holds, pumpy, painful jams, and tricky footwork. The crux is pulling the flare at the lip!

A short crack that requires some slabby smears as well as tenuous jams where the crack flares out.

Jamming-intensive climbing through a corner system and over three roofs. So good!

Start in a dihedral below a roof. Pull the low roof to slabby crack. If you can pull the low crux just above the roof, you'll easily pull the rest. Soloed by Doug Reed for the first ascent.

Round the corner to climber's right of Shiny Faces for the start to this route- immediately to the right of a roof/overhang.  Look for a fairly sheer face with horizontals that's quite Gunks-esque.  The hardest moves are right off the ground.  Follow the horizontals for about 35-40 feet until you reach a comfy ledge.  This ends the 5.8 climbing.  From here, choose your own adventure for roughly 5.5 climbing for the second half of the route until you reach the bolted anchor and a gorgeous view.

Shares a start with God of Fire. Climb the corner up onto the face, passing a bolt and two pins. Cut left after the face section and head toward a bolt.

Anchors are to the left under the prow about 2/3rds of the way up the wall.

Ultra classic hard trad route!

Short handcrack splitter to some juggy steep stuff, and then a steeper thin hands and finger crack in a corner.  Stemming will help you save juice for later; you'll need it!  There is a fixed piece at the top of this dihedral.  From here, hand traverse out a very airy ledge to an awkward heel-toe stance below the final headwall.  Set a bomber piece (or two), and pray that your v-bouldering skills are up to par for the crux headwall's amazing combination of tips locks and sidepull slaps.  Two-bolt anchor.

Begin ~15 feet right of Springboard in a licheny crack. Climb fun crack up to a leftwards face traverse and finish up a small right facing corner to the Springboard anchors.

You get exactly what you pay for, you paid for the full package and by Joe you shall receive it! There is a crux from 1st to third bolt, save some energy for the moves up the arete, some hold finding may need be done as a bit of the upper portion is lichen covered. You will want a long sling on bolt 6.

WATCH AT THE ANCHOR FOR BEES.

Shares a start with White-Out. Climb the corner up onto the face, passing a bolt and two pins. Cut right after the face section and head toward a bolt.

Anchors are to the left under the prow about 2/3rds of the way up the wall.

I'm sure that it's been done by plenty of folks over the decades, but the slab between Bisect and Anal Clenching Adventures goes, and with some very engaging slab moves.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in 7) Orchard Wall