5.8 cruxes on both pitches, good rock, a comfortable belay, and some nice exposure.

Twice As Nice

Spanish Castle Magic

Fisherman's Elbow

Black Sheep

The first pitch is a 5.8 pitch that starts with a three bolt traverse up and right into a corner under a large flake alcove. A Blue Metolius minicam can protect moves up the crack for 10 feet stepping right to the first bolt. It continues up and right over easy slab terrain to two bolts under a roof. They are near the horizontal alumogranite dike. These bolts have rappel rings. There are three bolts on this pitch.The Second pitch is the crux pitch. Step right, immediately engaging vertical rock. Put a purple Metolius cam in the solution pocket, and clip the first bolt. Continue up and right into a shallow cave, that we call the mouth. The second bolt is on the roof of the mouth, providing a clean line for both the leader and the follower. There is a sit-down rest in the mouth. You may need it. Clip the third bolt stepping up and right, and clip the fourth. Make a balancy move back and slightly left. This crux is similar to pitch six on Berchoff-Williams' route on the north face of Middle Cathedral. It is also a lot like the sixth pitch of Farewell to Kings on Fairview Dome. Balancy moves up into the black streak, reach a good foothold for your right foot, from which the fifth bolt was drilled. From there, move up and slightly right into a 5.8 bomb-bay squeeze chimney. Follow this weakness to the belay alcove. Anchor are on the rib up and left six feet from the alcove. Pitch 2 has rappel rings as well. Note that if you fall on the second pitch, you may not be able to return to your last point without jumaring, and will instead have to pull the rope through and start again from the anchors, as was the case on the first ascent. There are six bolts on this pitch.Pitch three: Make fun moves strait left into a left facing dihedral. Continue up and left to the first bolt. From there, continue more or less strait up the center of the shield, keeping Twice As Nice 30 to 40 feet to your left, and Fisherman's Elbow the same distance to your right. All three routes terminate at the same anchors, where we added a second bolt. There are four bolts on this pitch.

Long moderate with some fun climbing on knobs and the third pitch has some great exposure.  Never done bottom to top on lead John and Scott stole the FA yesterday in record time. 

Two pitch climb on the west face of the Fortress. 

  1) Climb up a short section clean rock that arches to the right.  Continue up the knobby slab with two bolts.  Belay at a bolted anchor about 5 feet left of the prominent black water streak.  5.8 PG13, 100'.  (Marcy and I learned that EFR had previously soloed this pitch and he was fine with leaving the fixed hardware we placed.) 

  2) Climb up the left side of the water streak.  The gear is a bit tricky in places.  At the top of the water streak bear right to a ledge and belay on gear.  Make sure to wait until the streak has dried if there has been recent rain.  5.10, 100'. 

  Scramble up toward a dead tree to a large ledge (4th class) and finish on the final pitch of Fisherman's Elbow.

The northwest face of The Fortress sports fewer lines and sees less activity than the southeast face.  The wall is shaded until approximately noon.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Northwest Face