Move up solid grey limestone on good holds.  When the good holds run out move up one more bolt on thin crimps and thin feet until you can get a right hand out around the edge of a shallow right facing corner.  Continue up the face working the left hand up the face and the right hand on the edge.  Make a mantle onto narrow ledge and do an awkward step left on slopper footholds and no hands.  Continue on easy ground to gain the large ledge below the headwall - The Wall.

This is one of 4 approach options for getting to the climbs on The Wall.

Stairway to Heaven

Us and Them

Time

Total Eclipse

Don't Bring Me Down

Thriller

Money

Empty Spaces

Another Brick in the Wall

Highway to Hell

The Flaming (c)Lips

Comfortably Numb

Barracuda

Jumping Jack Flash

Run Like Hell

Cajun Hot Stick

Matchhead

Turn to Stone

Let it Burn

Steep climbing on solid grey limestone.  Make a series of interesting and challenging moves between grooves and pockets.  After 5 or 6 bolts, pull onto the narrow ledge shared with Stairway to Heaven.  Follow easy ground and a couple more bolts to the large grassy ledge below The Wall.

This is one of 4 approach options for getting to the climbs on The Wall.

This is one of 6 routes that is accessed from the broad ledge below a broad steep face called "The Wall". Use one of 4 approach pitch options (Don't Bring Me Down, I Turn to Stone, Stairway to Heaven, or Barracuda) to gain chain anchors on a comfortable ledge.

Us and Them starts just right of the chain anchors and climb straight up continuous, steep thin chert for 100 feet right up the middle of the face. The chert is strong but brittle, especially when wet. Be careful to place feet on holds and don't kick them. The holds are half pad crimps to full on jugs. Thin and thoughtful climbing starts immediately off the ledge and doesn't let up until you clip the anchors.

This is one of 6 routes that is accessed from the broad ledge below a broad steep face called "The Wall". Use one of 4 approach pitch options (Don't Bring Me Down, I Turn to Stone, Stairway to Heaven, or Barracuda) to gain chain anchors on a comfortable ledge.

Time starts 10 feet to right of the chain anchors on the comfortable ledge.  Move up the left side of a small alcove just off the ledge.  Continue on thin chert and aim for the larger alcove up and left.  Climb to the apex of the alcove and pull onto the chert face above.  The climbing eases up on huge chert.  Continue to the anchors of Another Brick in the Wall.

The far right wall of Psychedelic Rock has a very prominent steep right facing corner with a crack. Start on a steep face and traverse left until you can establish a stem in the corner.  Follow the corner/crack until the crack ends (about 80 feet). Face climb between discontinuous cracks for another 40 feet to the anchors just below the crest of the fin.

Long and sustained climb.

First climbed on the afternoon of the 2017 Total Eclipse.

Start below a couple shallow depressions in the wall.   Move straight up into the first depression and move up and slightly left to the second depression.  Make a tough move right then up to a gaston in a featured water groove.  Struggle for a couple moves through the water groove to gain a small ledge.  Continue up past another bolt to gain a large ledge and anchors below a large featured chert wall - "The Wall".

This is one of four options as an approach pitch to the climbs on The Wall.

On the rightmost face of Psychedelic Rock, there is an attractive grey face next to an orange streak.

Face climb on chert until you get a mono. Begin moving up on increasingly larger pockets into yellow/brown rock and large overhang.  Pull the overhang on mostly big holds and move into large alcove.  The the top of the alcove traverse left a few feet over a shallow right facing corner.  Continue up to a stance and work a vertical edge for a few more moves to the anchors.

Climb up featured, sculpted limestone with distinctive right diagonalling fissures. Work straight up across the fissures to a thin move.  Continue on slightly easier climbing to the anchors.

This is one of 6 routes that is accessed from the broad ledge below a broad steep face called "The Wall". Use one of 4 approach pitch options (Don't Bring Me Down, I Turn to Stone, Stairway to Heaven, or Barracuda) to gain chain anchors on a comfortable ledge.

Empty Spaces has a couple ways to begin the climb.  From the anchors on the broad ledge below 'The Wall', move left and stem up an easy corner past a couple trees clipping a couple bolts along the way.  From the big dead spruce tree, pull onto the wall and follow good chert up to a small ledge about 1/2 way up, continue on amazing, easy huge chert to a final headwall.  Work up a couple of runnels with occasional baseball sized chert knobs to the anchors.

Alternatively, it's possible to move the belay from the chain anchors on the broad ledge below to 'The Wall' up the easy stemming corner past the trees to another set of chain anchors just past the dead spruce and lead the climb from there.

This is one of 6 routes that is accessed from the broad ledge below a broad steep face called "The Wall". Use one of 4 approach pitch options (Don't Bring Me Down, I Turn to Stone, Stairway to Heaven, or Barracuda) to gain chain anchors on a comfortable ledge.

Another Brick in the Wall starts just left of the chain anchors and climb continuous, steep thin chert staying right of an obvious alcove about half way up the 100 foot wall. The chert is strong but brittle, especially when wet.  Be careful to place feet on holds and don't kick them. The holds are half pad crimps to full on jugs. This is another thin, technical climb that is continuously engaging. Just before the second to last bolt you can make a move left and grab a good rail to ease the tension.

Just right of a bush climb past a bolt to a narrow ledge.  Work up and right towards a large chert knob.  Once standing on the knob, make a couple moves laterally to the right and gain a stance below a large chert patch just out of reach.  Make  a thin cranky move (or two) to gain the chert. Campus up the chert on decent hand holds and terrible feet until you gain some stabilizing jugs.  Easy climbing past a couple more bolts leads to the anchors.

This is a fun, but very short climb on excellent featured rock.  Unfortunately the route ends when the featured rock ends.  Climb up a weakness with a discontinuous crack to a small ledge.  Continue on enjoyable rock for another 20 feet to stnace where the rock blanks out to a thin desperate slab.  Clip the sport anchors and lower.

Follow the left side of the prominent grey pillar to the right of "The Wall" and just right of the huge alcove.

This is one of 6 routes that is accessed from the broad ledge below a broad steep face called "The Wall". Use one of 4 approach pitch options (Don't Bring Me Down, I Turn to Stone, Stairway to Heaven, or Barracuda) to gain chain anchors on a comfortable ledge.

Use one of several approach pitch options to get to the comfortable ledge below "The Wall". Move the belay to the anchors on the far right side of the ledge. Move right to gain the face of the pillar. Work up the face sometimes working a hand or more on the left edge of the pillar. Continue up to a steep bulge with a short finger crack. Continue up on vertical chert to the anchors.

This is the easiest way to gain the large ledge below The Wall.  Start right of Stairway to Heaven on featured rock.  Move up and then right to a shallow right facing corner.  Move left and make the same mantel and step across as Stairway to Heaven.  Follow easy climbing to the ledge below The Wall.  Shares last 3 bolts with Stairway to Heaven.

This is the right most route on Psychedelic Rock.  Move quickly left through 2 bolts on marginal rock to gain the good rock on the obvious arete. Face climb up and left to a stance below a grey, very featured and sharp overhang.  Negotiate the overhang to a stance below a shallow right facing corner.  Make a few easier moves past a couple more bolts to the anchors.

This is one of 6 routes that is accessed from the broad ledge below a broad steep face called "The Wall". Use one of 4 approach pitch options (Don't Bring Me Down, I Turn to Stone, Stairway to Heaven, or Barracuda) to gain chain anchors on a comfortable ledge.

Run Like Hell starts 15 feet left of the chain anchors and climbs continuous, steep thin chert for 100 feet.  Work up on thin chert until you are close to the right edge of a huge alcove in the rock. Work your right hand and foot on the edge for a couple bolts until pulling fully back onto the chert face. Continuous climbing on chert continues to the anchor.

Nice Climbing down low to an obvious crux. 10+ slab climbing for sure.

Cool features on this climb with a cruxy middle section. Climb a short wall to a stance below a left trending left facing corner. Climb up and pull over the overlap (right over the shallow corner).  Continue up to the anchors just below a ledge.

Long route that needs traffic to clean up. Fun! Cool pockets, flakes, and runnels.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in 05. Psychedelic Rock