This highly technical line launches straight into the difficulties after the first bolt with a reachy crux (5.12) of thin sidepulls and thinner feet over a bulge to gain a horizontal and a jug. Catch a rest then continue up a steep sidepull flake with poor feet (5.11+) that's harder than it looks. After the 3rd bolt the angle relents, the difficulties ease and interesting steep slab leads to the anchors.

Originally done with only two bolts (1st and 2nd) and some gear it, this route like many of the routes at the Hungover Wall, was later retro-bolted into a sport route.

Into the Void

Shiver Shot

Buckets to Somewhere

Pink Squirrel

More Punk than Funk

Barfly

Brian's Song

Orange Tapestry

More Moss than Gloss

High Spark of Low Heeled Boys

Sunspot

Eve of the Ring

The Suck For Your Solution

Three Stooges

Joe's Problem

Climb past horizontals and then mantle onto a small ledge to clip the high first bolt. Move left using thin edges to a somewhat tenuous clip and keep moving up and left to a good horizontal crack; continue up to a delicate stand-up move between the 3rd and 4th bolt, keeping your heels low, and finish with more positive scoops and edges.

The name is a take-off on Traffic's 1971 release

The Low Spark Of High-Heeled Boys

.

Boulder up the initial face, clip a bolt and then mantle onto a large ledge. Move right on the ledge and then up a series of ledges to a headwall. Tricky moves up and left onto a slab and then up the final headwall to shared anchors.

Start 6' right of

Joe's Problem

and climb amazingly good jugs and horizontals to a cruxy section just past the second bolt - it helps to go slightly right to the arete. Above this work up into an alcove formed by a block and use a variety of techniques to gain a horizontal and the end of the difficulties. Continue straight up the crack/groove or cut left to join Joe's Problem.

Despite there being some good moves on this, the awkward moves in the middle of the climb make it slightly less enjoyable than it's neighbor just to the left.

Make the crux moves to a bolt, clip it and then mantel onto a large ledge. From here the route climbs the obvious chimney system up and right that's formed by the back of the wall with Barfly and Gravitational Humiliation. Not much pro in the chimney but the moves are fairly secure. Originally done as a free-solo, the bolt was later added by the FA party.

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Pink Squirrel

​​​ ​​​​​​is a creamy, almond flavored drink with a distinctive pink coloring.

Although a crack this route is mostly face climbing with gear with the odd jam where the crack pinches down. A small roof just below the top provides some variety as well as the last few moves to the anchors.

Steeper than it looks with good gear as well as rests the whole way if you're creative.

Climb a short face past a bolt and then mantle onto a ledge at the base of a narrow face. Launch up the arete and then weave your way through interesting moves to a heart-breaker finish at the very top.

Climb juggy horizontals, passing a distinct crux near the second bolt, and then mantle onto a ledge with the third bolt. Higher, climb over a small roof and finish up a short headwall to anchors at the lip of the wall.

Decent climbing on this route although it lacks the sustained nature of the higher quality routes. The poorly located 2nd bolt detracts somewhat from the overall experience.

Originally a TR problem this was later lead without any bolts (finishing up Sun Spot) and later still bolted and made a sport climb. Most recently a two bolt direct finish was added to make this route totally independent of Sun Spot.

Steep but positive horizontals lead to a powerful crux at the second bolt, and higher at the fourth bolt, you're faced with insecure moves as you struggle to get established on a steep slab which is then followed to the anchors.

Excellent rock and a variety of intriguing moves make this one of the classics of the wall; definitely recommended for those who climb at the grade.

The climb starts up a nice hand crack (crux) and then quickly widens into a chimney which is less unpleasant than appearances, or the name, might suggest.

Belay from gear and walk off or traverse right to use the bolted anchor atop High Spark.

Begin just right of

Brian's Song

and punch past the first bolt (crux) via a strenuous lock-off to reach easier moves past horizontals and a ledge just after the third bolt. Above the ledge romp up easy moves (5.9) to the anchors at the very top of the wall.

The climbing is decent and once past the boulder problem crux much easier, making this a good candidate for somebody's first 5.11 route. Like it's neighbor to the left, this route doesn't have the sustained nature characteristic of the more classic routes on this wall.

Sunspot is a drink

- click the link!

Located just left of

Orange Tapestry

(5.12b), this line has a crux section consisting of some very thin moves.

Start with a tricky sequence passing the first bolt and up onto the large ledge.

From the ledge move up onto the sloping shelf behind you and clip the second bolt.  With the bolt clipped make a committing series of moves up the crack to reach good edges on the left of the crack.

Continue up the crack above using a variety of techniques before a final tricky section gains the last bolt.

Mantle on up to the finishing ledge.

Climb incut horizontals to the second bolt where a reachy crux will be found - taller climbers will easily reach the security of a distant horizontal, while shorter climbers will need to make some extra moves and/or dyno past the crux. After clipping the 3rd bolt traverse right in a horizontal and then work up an arete to the 4th bolt; this section is a little sporty and will grab your attention if pumped. The last section involves traversing up and right on a steep slab to join Buckets to Somewhere for it's last bolt and anchors.

Great climbing on this route that's a good warm-up for the more difficult lines on the wall.

This climb, an old toprope problem, was originally led with no bolts, and then years later bolted turning this seldom done route into a popular sport route.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Hungover Wall - Left Side