A quality line on immaculate white granite featured with swirly diorite. The beta for this route in the Bishop Area Rock Climbs guide is a bit off - don't follow the approach photo in that book unless you want to hike up the wrong canyon to the wrong cliff. From Ainslee Meadow (west of Paradise), hike southwest across the desert into Sixth Canyon. The Tranquility Wall is the slabby, white wall on the right side of the canyon. See photo. Allow 1.5 hours for the approach.

The route starts to the right of the massive chimney/cleft on the formation (this is the 1978 Harrington/Crljenko route Botanists Holiday III 5.7). Look for the line of rusty welded-shut bolt hangers. Expect some spice with bolt spacing in the 10-20 ft range. A bit runout by sport standards, but decently protected at the hardest spots. Could the name be a jab at the former US President, or a reference to the stubborn shrubbery that guards passage to many fine lines on the Wheeler Crest?

P1) 10 or 12 bolts to bolted anchor. 5.10b 150'

P2) 2 ladder rungs (A0) lead right to 3 more bolts and a bolted anchor. Short pitch - don't try and link it with the next one. 5.10 A0 50'

P3) 10 or so bolts to bolted anchor. Crux around the third, I think. 5.11a 170'

P4) 10 or 11 bolts to anchor. 5.10a 190'

3 rappels down the route with 2x 60m ropes. Skip the P1 anchor and go all the way to the ground from atop P2.

Description

Protection

Routes in Sixth Canyon