This is the sugar-capped spire that stands in front of

East Temple

. This route has some really cool, exposed hooking on solid sandstone and some other creative aid .

There is good

topo

from bigwall.com.

There is also an updated topo in the visitor center.

Fang Spire

Mobius

Freezer Burn IV 5.10 C2 (a.k.a. Free or Burn 5.11+)

Lovelace

Rexburg Rock Climbers Memorial Crack

Casual Route

The 10th Division

Cowboy Bob Goes to Zion

This grade IV or V route features great rock in a spectacular setting. Climbs an ever widening crack to the top. The view looking down on the fang is fantastic. The free version is 5.12

P1 - Ascend a short approach pitch to a left facing corner.(5.6)

P2 - Ascend corner 5.10 to a narrow ledge.

P3 - Move belay right and up along a "thank God" type ledge.

P4 - Ascend thin splitters for 160' to a ledge (C2 or 5.12).

P5 - Jam a perfect hand crack (5.9) to a stance below a shallow chimney.

P6 - Climb the chimney for 40'. Traverse left to an improbable flake. Ascend this to a cool ledge (5.9) Amazing pitch.

P7 - Climb the 5.10 offwidth above to a belay below a deep chimney.

P8 - The slick bombay chimney above (5.9) ends at a hanging belay inside the chimney...Wow!

P9 - Climb the heads up squeeze chimney & offwidth to the top (5.9+)

Rap route...50m ropes will work.

P0: scramble up ledge systems with short 5th class moves, shared approach with Lovelace. Fine in approach shoes with packs if fixed lines are present

P1: 5.7 120' Starting on a large ledge system where the wall steepens, route find through more ledges. Belay on left ledge at base of arete, sharing bolts with a mystery route heading left. Single Rack

P2: 5.10+ 100' easy chimneying leads to a stout wide hands section and an offwidth pod. Belay with bolts (Pardon the hanging stance, the chimney ledge below was deemed dangerous during the FA). Single rack to #6, 3 #3s, 2 4s

P3: 5.11 110' The Rollercoaster Pitch: sustained fists and cupped hands the entire way! Climb though a flared corner, around a roof, and up a rounded bulge to a decent stance with bolts. 4-6 #4s and 4-6x #3s, 1x #2 opptional.

P4: 5.10 80' The Worm Hole: tunnel into the wall to find a hidden tight hands crack. When the crack ends after 40', tunnel back out to daylight. A tipped out 6 protects exiting the hole. Clip a bolt on the face and punchy laybacks lead to a nice hand crack finish. Doubles 0.5-2, 1x 6, extra 1 and 2 could be nice. Good two bolt stance on the right face.

P5: 5.10+ 90' Finger laybacking leads to crack funk and a fun buldge. Double 0.3-4, extra 0.4-0.5. Semi hanging belay at two bolts.

The crux is on the last pitch and is in the soft white rock, so it seems sketchier and harder i thought. The 4th pitch roof area is easier than it looks when climbing up to it and is way cool! We ran the first 2 pitches together then traversed to the start of the 4th from a corner belay. Its just all alright climbing that gets you to the "Money" 5th pitch! The 5th pitch needs more cams than the free book says or you will break it in half. To do the whole pitch you will need 4 or 5 #2 cams and about 6 #3 cams.

The climbing on this route is fun, and it ranges from good hands to baggy fingers. That being said, basically everything else about this route sucks.  The approach is a total bush wack, the route is still a bit dirty, the sandstone on this cliff is so soft despite my best efforts I was not able to place reasonable bolts (when I brushed the whole, the brush would wear away the rock, aka not ideal).  There is a nice tree directly above and behind the route which is great for top roping, but between the tree and the route is a large boulder with a very sharp edge which gave my rope a core shot while I TR soloed the route. this was just something that I tried to do after work one day, and if you want a funky/bush wacky/logistical/60ft/out of the way crack, this might be the one for you.  Otherwise I would recommend just doing the headache across the valley.

East Temple is a monarch of Zion National Park. Despite the sheer and improbable appearance, a technically-easy route reaches the summit. Despite the grade, however, one should expect the usual Zion fare - slickrock, brush, and slightly sketchiness not suitable for those who aren't comfortable with a bit of thrashery.

From the end of the canyon overlook trail, head north up slickrock until the reddish rock starts transitioning to white. Follow slickrock ledges out west and contour around. One gully in particular interrupts the ledge - we found it best to descend the gully a bit from our ledge onto red slickrock. Follow the bench around and below some chossy points to a good overlook.

A large gully should be in front of you with red and white slickrock and weaknesses opposing. Pick your way into the gully and descend a couple hundred feet until the base of a small probable looking gully branching uphill on right/north.

Ascend slickrock left of the gully. This can be kinda sketchy with micro route finding. Sticky shoes recommended. I thought this was the mental crux. Once it tapers off, ascend another gully at the base of the wall, which might be the physical crux, though brief and not too exposed. We used a partner assist rather than belaying. Note the rappel slings in this gully system.

Here, you should see a line of bolts ascending up and left. Follow these for a rope length and a half until the terrain eases. Frankly, I thought this section was quite easy mentally and physically compared to the lower slabs.

Drop gear and scramble up. Bypass the final summit block via a long contour around the north side to an east weakness.

Descend the route. A single 60 m is fine with several raps or handlines.

This route is characterized by a significant amount of offwidth climbing, relatively good quality rock, and a high level of adventure.  Well worth the effort.

P1

(5.10a) Follow crack up to overhanging tree.

P2

(5.6) 3rd class from the belay lead to easy moves in an alcove.

P3

(5.9) Move left from belay and climb crack to ledge.

P4

(5.10+) Continue up the left overhanging crack in the recess to offwidth and belay.

P5

Continue up crack past a bolt to belay.

P6

(5.10, C1) Continue up crack.

P7

(5.10+) Continue up twin cracks.

P8

(5.7) Continue up crack system to top.

This route has a high level of adventure. There are no fixed anchors, making retreat problematic and thus this is a committing outing. You will encounter everything from spicy slab climbing, to bombay chimneys, to a fair amount of offwidth.

P1

(5.10+, 150') Follow the mainly hand crack to a belay ledge.

P2

(5.9, 100') Continue up crack to another belay ledge. Move 25' to the right and belay.

P3

(5.8) Cross the gully and face climb up to crack and belay ledge on left.

P4

(5.9+, 165') Climb the right-facing  corner to the top of the White Finger Pinnacle.

P5

(5.10+) Move right and climb up through the bombay chimney to belay ledge.

P6

(5.9) Climb hands up to another belay at a ledge.

P7

(5.9+) Climb the face crack to a belay ledge on the right.

P8

(5.8) Continue up cracks and belay at a ledge on the left.

P9

(5.10+ C2+, or 5.11 R) Start by climbing the crack then move right with a few moves of C2+ then continue up the runout slab to a belay on the right.

P10

(3rd class) To the summit.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in East Temple