An Excellent dihedral crack leads to a ledge and a no hands rest.  Hesitate, then hesitate some more.  Finally traverse right back onto the face, place a perfect .75 cam in a horizontal slot and get ready for the crux.  Save a .3, .4, and .5 to protect in horizontals after the crux as the climbing eases up significantly to the chains.  

Ice Cream Dream Team

Mass Hysteria

Golden Gate

Behind Breath (Closed project)

Dapple

NUMA

Brood of Vipers

Revisionist History

32oz Cup

Epilithic Salad (Closed Project)

Old Growth

The Return of Tom

My Brothers Keeper

Nutty Buddy

The Torch

Blaiser

Dinky Donkey

Grumpy Gus

Medial Epicondylitis

Black Gold

Guano Loco

Gold Marble

Full Moon Flask

A Beautiful crack that demands very engaging and interesting climbing from bottom to top.  

Start again on positive cobled holds up to the second bolt where a cool shield feature begins sustained sequential climbing.  This one may not be the best route to look at at the crag, but the movement is phenomenal throughout.  

Steep start to corner then stance and pull small roof. Keep it together for the final steep exposed upper section.

Good climbing on good holds! Climb up easier terrain to roof, pull roof and climb face above on a good variety of features. Save some for the top!

A hard first move gives way to easier but beautiful climbing through the middle.  Undercling moves gain you the sustained upper face to a mantle type move towards the chains.  

Begin on the jumbo rock stack and make one hard "pop" move to a jug.  Climb big moves and big holds around a blobby arete into a no hands rest.  Climb a defined crux into wonderfully featured face climbing until the great view at the chains.  

Project waiting to be done.  Amazing slopey orange stuff up top.  

Starts in a mini dihedral feature with a hard start, climbing eases up until slightly overhanging headwall where the holds get thin and the moves get long. Finishes on the beautiful chicken head features up high with an incredible view

(This route is also new and dirty.  The star rating is reflective of when it is clean).  First route on the warm up wall.  Climbs a wondering path through interesting features up to an excellent view of some other cliffs across the river.  

Once getting down to the Lower Lodges wall, one of the first things you'll see is a pretty chunk of sandstone with enormous poison ivy vines on it.  This route is around the corner on the face.  It begins with an extremely obvious crack in the middle of the wall up to a right trending roof.  After traversing the roof to a stance climb into a fantastic hand size crack for about 20 feet to the chains.  

If this route doesn't make you feel joyful about rock climbing I don't know what will.  A moderate start leads to a cryptic crux through a crack feature that exits into engaging and sustained face climbing until the top of the cliff where you get one of the best views in the park.  Just wonderful climbing

Climb the incredible dihedral to just below a small roof, clip the bolt up high and do some fun maneuvering to get one of the best side pulls you've ever felt.  Enjoy the rest before small holds peel you off at the obvious crux mid way. Work right to gain the crack feature for a few moves before trending back left for the last 3 bolts.

excellent sequential face climb with a stay awake crux at the end

Closed Project. Please don't climb.

 Dihedral feature in middle of wall. Climb dihedral to first roof and move onto upper face.

(This route is new and still dirty, the 3 star rating is reflective of when it is clean).  Low angle face climbing on interesting features.  Some tricky movement in the middle gives this 5.9 the +

Hard boulder start stays sustained until a good rest mid way. Make some big moves and enjoy a great flow that finishes on jugs above the treeline for an amazing view. 

Start on horn like jug, move up and right to the first bolt. Smack the small slopers and enjoy the ride through the steep upper section. Climb easy ground to the anchor.

Start on good horizontal edge. Pull, smear, mantle, thumbercling, and crimp your way up through the business to some easier climbing above. 

Stick clip recommended. Steep start to the crack feature. Pull small roof on left or right then up lower angled face to the final steep section to the anchors. The top is tightly bolted to keep a climber off the slab below.

Bouldery start leads you to some funky climbing on the slopey flake feature where you'll feel cruxy just before the roof. Good holds and a roof bolt protect you as you get some air coming out of the roof to good holds. Stand up and keep your cool as fun face climbing takes you to the top. Make sure you find the good holds!

This is a wall of phenomenal sandstone and pristine views of the towers/horseshoe from the top of almost every route.  It's mostly all day sun and the climbing is generally long and somewhere near vertical.  The biggest problem with this wall is not listing every route as 4 stars or above.  (However the area is brand new and climbers should approach new routes with care for loose rocks)

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Lower Lodges