This is the semi-overhanging arête right of

Brain Line

. Begin right of the yellow, overhung rock (the yellow rock is suspect), and climb the arête joining with the top of

Brain Line

after 20 feet. Cams or a juniper tree can be used for an anchor.

Fungal Lobotomy

Crack Left

Crack Right

Origami Dog

Brain Line

The Lord of La Junta

Sport Route Left

A Case of Corona

Knights of Kim

Helicopter Premonition

Keymaker

Sport Route Right

Limon Layback

Reverend Blue Jeans

Begin by climbing into the "cave" about 10 feet off the ground, then move right out onto the face, and climb steep, featured rock to the top. Some holds may be a little friable.

A set of close parallel cracks lines the right edge of the crag. Climb the left crack to a bolted anchor.

A set of close parallel cracks lines the right edge of the crag. Climb the right crack. At the top, veer left to a bolted anchor.  Large hands help.

Begin up the white-colored rock with sharp crimps. The crux is getting past the second bolt. Thin, techy feet then leads to fun, semi-overhung climbing with hidden horizontal rails and pockets. A hand-sized piece could supplement the minor runout from the last bolt to the anchor; the climbing is only 5.8.

Origami Dog shares anchors with

Helicopter Premonition

.

This is the largest roof at the cliff and isn't to be missed. Climb a fantastic hand crack to the roof. Then undercling right out of the roof where the gear can be a little funky. Pull the crux out of the roof, and then face climb to the top. Despite the upper half appearing chossy, the rock is surprisingly good. Belay off a gear anchor.

This is the left of the two bolted lines and is just right of a prow. Climb up the face using the prow to a ledge. The climbing then eases to a bolted anchor.

Start with a low crux start on a nice overhanging finger/hand crack. Grab the nice sloped jug to pull over the crux, and cruise up to the top from there.

There is a lot of choss on the ledges above the clean crack, so be careful. Anchor off one of the trees up top.

This is a top-rope variation and would be a R/X lead. Using the bolted anchor for

Crack Left

/

Right

, use a #1 BD C4 to set up a directional for the prow/face just left of

Crack Left

. The hardest moves are the first 5-10 feet. Then it eases to enjoyable 5.8 face climbing.

Start up the wide, R->L angling crack to reach the first bolt. Step right onto the face (crux), and continue up a featured face to the anchor. Use a hand-sized cam in a horizontal rail between the first and second bolts.

Helicopter Premonition and

Origami Dog

share anchors.

Climb up the right arete of a free standing pillar. Balancy moves and aesthetic position make this a unique route of the area. Easy moves allow the climber to top out the pillar for the full experience.

This is the right of the two bolted lines. Easy face climbing leads to a thoughtful crux just above the second bolt. It's smooth sailing after that to the anchor.

This is a fine finger crack 30 feet left of

Crack Left

/

Right

that leads up the cliff to a bolted anchor. This is right of the two sport routes.

This is a fun 5.9 located towards the left end of Scorpio Crag, about a 1/4 mile northwest of the

Lord of La Junta

roof. The route is located about 100 yards northwest of the Class 3 access as described on the main page for Scorpio Crag. The beginning of the route is identifiable by two side-by-side hueco-type formations in white rock.

Climb white, steep, featured rock up and right, and then move back left as the rock turns into more solid sandstone. Fire up the face on positive holds via small cracks and horizontals to the top.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Scorpio Crag