Climb a splitter finger crack with engaging moves and fun sequences. Located 40’ uphill and to the right of

Journey...

, this sits directly below the roof of

Johnny Rotten

and starts on a distinct and separate pinnacle. Climb up a splitter finger crack to a two bolt anchor. This protects well with finger-sized pro. It is a short but fun climb and is conducive for introducing beginning leaders to finger cracks and small pro.

Required Gardening

Johnny Rotten

Ugly American

Angles Away

Mathematical Progressions

Gas Cafe

Chucky Cheese

Left End Corners

Slap Happy

Big Top project

Journey through Gwondonaland

Whatever

Needs a Bolt

Back for Seconds

On the far right (climber's right) side of the second buttress, there is a distinct nearly straight shot crack system that goes through a small roof and blanks out on a superb slab. Both pitches are challenging with the 2nd pitch through the roof being the actual crux.

The 1st pitch starts out somewhat awkwardly in a acute angle slot.It quickly becomes funtastic climbing to a belay 15' below the little roof at a big traversing ledge. The belay anchor can be set to the right or the left of the route. I personally prefer the climber's left side as the ledge is a bit more comfortable.

The next pitch is so fine! 15' of super crack climbing leads to a roof with great moves and wild positioning. Now, swallow hard and head up the headwall slab for the rest of the pitch. This stretch feels way out there but is really moderate. The climbing eases way up but so does the pro. It is a long run to the trees on top so you probably wont take this stretch for granted but there is no reason to get hurt. Descend by hiking around back to the right and down.

Johnny Rotten is a sick crack climb on the Second Buttress.

P1. Start in a crack below a 90 degree roof (very similar to Coffin Crack). Pull the roof via hands, and then continue up another 10 feet of hands. Mantel a small ledge, and then climb a weakness to a second roof. Move up and right (crux) of the roof, and belay at a rusty chain anchor.

P2. Either climb a finger crack (direct route) or move to the right and climb a hands/fists, cornery/chimney feature thing.

Ugly American climbs a slopey, balancy arete.

For the sake of clarity, I am only going to describe the 1st pitch and hope that those more currently informed will add in details of the other two pitches. When looking at the 2nd Buttress from down river, there are two prominent geologic features: a HUGE roof system and a big, left-facing, left-leaning corner system. The big corner is 'Angles Away'. It is obvious and easy to get to.

From the *Sugar Cube, scramble up to the flat rocks at the base of the routes 'Angles Away' and '

Needs a Bolt

'. The 1st pitch of 'Angles Away' is an acute angle dihedral with the right face overhanging steeply and the left face kicked back less than vertical. Once you're into the heart of it all, the name of the route will be abundantly clear. The gear is solid but a wee bit tricky, and the climbing is thoughtful. Some would invariable call this 1st pitch 5.10, but I think all things considered that 9+ is more correct.

The Sugar Cube is the aptly named chunk of stone right at the parking area for the 2nd Buttress. The Sugar Cube has some fun bouldering on it. While you are there, use your knowledge of geometry, geology, and physics to imagine where the cube started from.

Fun stemming and cracks lead to a thin crack/seam. This short pitch is not to be taken lightly. All of the crux moves are thin and above small gear.

The crux comes at the middle of the bolted face near the top of the first pitch, and thin and powerful moves on bolts get you up to the second belay ledge. Step right from the second belay to a bolted line going up and slightly right. Grab the bomber block, and pull through the roof. Go straight up easier terrain all the way to the top where you'll find a rap anchor on the edge of a huge plateau (go left around the medium-sized tree to avoid rope drag).

Two 70m rope raps should get you to where you started.

This route is an excellent, 3 pitch, trad adventure for everybody!

P1. Climb the left-facing corner. Climb face to hand crack then squeeze through chimney. Belay on large bushy ledge, 5.8+.

P2. Pull juggy roof or climb around on easy terrain to small ledge with a bomber stopper placement. Continue up steep clean rock with crack and face moves. Move left and then right on easier terrain to small stance with bolted belay. Do not go right to the large ledge system, 5.8.

P3. Climb straight up belay using either crack to choice of finishes. The left way is better. Take wild cracks to top of buttress, 5.8+.

Enjoy!

Left End Corners is an excellent outing on the far left side of the second buttress. This can be done at either 5.6 or 5.8, depending on the precise line. I'll describe the 5.8 line - the 5.6 line goes left on the second pitch and avoids the final corner (Resom).

P1: Climb up easy rock about 50' to a big ledge.

P2: Go right to a nice crack - Malloy incorrectly shows

Chuck E Cheese

going up this crack in the photo. The hardest part is getting started (5.7 or so). You can stay near the right edge of the face up higher for some excellent climbing. Belay at a large ledge (100').

P3: Climb an easy gully on the left. After about 60', strike out right to an obvious corner (the Resom Dihedral), and follow this to a wall at the top (crux),  180'.

From

Gunnison Rock

:

Climb the bolted face up to an overhang. Pull through the overhang, then step up and right, following the arete up to a two bolt anchor.

The crux looks relatively short and is well protected and with clean falls.

The rock up to the roof is choss but well-protected with bolts. Once you get to the roof the rock quality is much better. The crux seems to kick in right off the jug at the first roof bolt and stays hard till I fall which is pretty quickly.

From the Malloy book: "climb flakes and cracks to the chimney system on the left. Continue up broken chimney system to the anchors."

I would suggest it's a full body workout with some hand, fist, OW, rounded edges, chimney, and face all wrapped up into one strenous & sustanined pitch. The last 15' is the crux with crumbly, rounded holds until you can get the locker-hand-jam and dish to pull onto the ledge. (It is best to plan yer lead head at 9+.)

Here is one of the penultimate Harmels funk fests. A route of unusual character and unexpected grace. A highly recommended route. A great lead IF you are solid at the grade. Start up the poorly protected, steep face until you can turn the little overhang (1st crux) and get established in the dihedral. Climb the funkhedral about half way to the roof and go left across an exposed and funkalicious hand and/or foot traverse out left. Continue up through the most obvious weakness in the left side of the Roofer Madness roof (2nd crux) and belay on the commodious ledge above. Rap to the base from bolts.

This superb line is located to the right and slightly downhill from

Chucky Cheese

. A single bolt (the bachelor bolt) on a slabby face leads to incredible, overhanging, crack climbing in black rock.

The bolted line to the right of this climb is called

Slap Happy

and is HARD 5.12.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Second Buttress