A crimping masterpiece. Climb 4 bolts of 5.12 intro climbing, then trend left into a desperate ~10 move boulder problem on very small holds. Rest in a cool iron oxide tube and execute a final big pull to surmount the lip of the steepness. It isn't the most striking line visually, but the movement is phenomenal and its difficulty is well known.

Thanatopsis

Hot For Teacher

Snooker

8 Ball

False Positive

White Man's Overbite

White Man's Shuffle

Cutthroat

Fun layback and face lead to very technical and insecure slabaneering, an anomaly for the Lode. Pull a hard crimp move then a V4-5 mantel to get established on the slab. From there drift slightly right on a big pinch a few other hard-to-find holds to an anchor in the recessed hueco.

Hot For Teacher, classic Van Halen song or killer, neglected route?  Turns out it's both!  Start off on a ledge, 10 feet to the left of the first bolt.  Make your way right to the first bolt and start heading up to the easy looking slab.  Turns out the slab is overhanging and not so easy.  Crimp your way up to the huge hueco and take a seat if you'd like.  From the rest, head hard right and then up steep ground with big moves and cool holds.  Can be a little hard to see the holds toward the end, especially if you're looking into the sun, but they're there and decent.

This is an all-time classic that draws crowds from around the world. A tough boulder problem gets things going, then after an awkward rest, cruise up the steep face on sustained crimping to a worse-than-it-looks shake on the left margin of the hueco. When you're ready, head straight up over the roof for a final showdown on pumpy edges. This route used to bail left to share anchors with 8-ball, but now has its own direct finish, which has helped solidify the grade.

Move up then left to the flake. Follow the flake up and left to the base of the shallow corner. Laybacks, pockets and edges lead up to the top of the corner. The holds improve but the angle is a bit steeper and the pulls a bit longer to the anchors.

Solid for the grade. Using a semi-permanent stack of cheater stones, reach up and grab a jug.  Boulder out a steep section and up to a mantel. Continue up the overhanging wall on crimps and sloping holds to a relief jug just before the finishing moves.

Begin on the shared start of Overbite and climb vertical terrain to an excellent rest. From the rest head straight up for ~4 difficult moves, which are still shared between the routes, and then cut directly right into Shuffle. Clip a scary bolt from somewhere and continue upwards through 60 continuous feet of crimping and pinching. There is a poor rest at the second to last bolt before executing a final boulder problem that culminates in a stab to a good hole. A relentless route that requires excellent fitness. Often overlooked despite the quality of climbing.

A very sustained route on perfect rock, that will test your sprinting ability, as no rests will be found until the last bolt.  The technical crux at the second bolt will be but a memory when you are whipping repeatedly at the multiple redpoint cruxes higher up.  Though this route has no flaws, it's also not terribly memorable.

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Location

Protection

Routes in (3) GMC Wall