Second climb (left to right) on the wall.  Climb above bolt 1 to an insecure position and reach up into a good undercling where you can clip bolt 2.  Belay beware of close-lining your leader on a fall above bolt one!  Strenuous moves out of the large hueco leads to more moderate terrain above.

Unclench

Half Monty

Cleavage

Butt Crack

Slabby limestone with large pockets and huecos. 

An area classic!  Cleavage offers bouldery opening moves on steep terrain with a solid no hands rest before the crux section.  Good clips throughout the entire climb, with a committing move between B4 to B5.  Clip B5 with a good right hand hold.  Better for the belayer to pay out a little extra slack here, so as not to whip the leader's torso into the bulge. It eases up a bit near the top, but it's not really over until the chains!

 The bottom of the route is slabby and thin.  The route has a couple difficult transitional moves into the crack.  The crack itself is a sharp, positive hand crack that lends itself well to layback moves. 

The Butt is home to some of the best pocketed overhang climbing on the Ranch.  Most of the routes' anchors are accessible from the top including the TR/trad line Butt Crack 5.10.  Besides the left most line Half Monty 5.9 and Unclench 5.10+ the rest of the wall is 5.12.  Enjoy shade all morning and the shortest approach of any wall on the ranch.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Butt