A south facing face climb next to a crack-corner. The crack-corner can be led on gear. The bolted line stays on the face right of the crack and only uses the crack at the crux near the top. Not using the crack-corner for the crux involves a tricky sequence of crimps and pushes the grade up a notch.

The Paw

Peer Pressure

Born Ready

Unnamed Arete

First Move

Halitosis Monkey

Second Move

PTSDed

Like all trad climbs at the R&R's they become surprisingly thoughtful excursions because you need to evaluate the rock constantly. I found this to be a really nice lead with good stances and and occasional pockets on either face if your hands hurt from jamming. The crux is either moving from the right crack into the left over hanging crack or negotiating the overhang as you traverse right towards the chains.

This route starts off really chossy, climbing to a small roof. Turning the roof is the first crux. Above it is some steep and cryptic face climbing. Before the last bolt is the second crux - a hidden hold, which if passed could make things a lot tougher. After the last bolt anchors are seen off to the left, but Scott Jones informed us that you can continue straight-up to another set of anchors and make a more direct climb.

This is a spectacular, continuously overhanging pitch. It has no good rests and not one easy move. The rock is sharp and a bit crumbly in places, which is the only thing that keeps me from giving it 4 stars. It starts off with very steep, bouldery moves, then continues with less steep but more technical climbing up the arete. The climbing eases slightly once you reach the giant flake, but if you're like me, your arms are screaming by this point so things still feel quite hard. Lay-back for glory to the anchors! 

  Rock Climbing New Mexico gives the route a grade of "11d/12a," which is not an option on Mountain Project, so I just call it 11d.

Fun route with big pockets right where they are needed.

The first climb established at the Rough and Readies. Juggy moves up to the second bolt, than a crux on smaller holds to establish on the slab above.

Second Move is a bolted arete to the left of First Move. It is slightly overhanging for the first twenty feet and definitely pumpy, but less chossy than it looks. The moves are fairly interesting, even include some crack holds higher up.

Go up the corner, surmount the overhang, and continue on face, taking in some arete holds at the end. 

  The chains and couple of bolts existed for a number of years and were referred to as "V5 Project."

Home of the first routes developed at the Rough and Readies. This area has short steep lines, a stunning arete climb, and a nice corner system.

Description

Protection

Routes in (D) Original Area