In the rock description for 5 & Dime, this problem is the arete mentioned as the first one encountered after the cliffs to the North.  When my pictures come back, it will be more clear on what to look for....

The problem uses holds on both sides of the rounded arete and the crux is moving up to some good jugs around the 10 foot mark.  A fall here would not be too bad, but be sure not to fall off past the crux.  Definitely highball.

Diamond Back In The Rough

Warmup Traverse

What's This?

Break the Chains

Pee Piddle Lee on the Dee Diddle Lee

Day Old Roller Dog

Mig 28

Slurpee

Eo's Song

Unknown

Under The Fun

Trough Arete

If you have a copy of "Colorado Bouldering" this problem is on the Electric Kite Wall.  Locate this by heading North from any of these (Trough Arete, Gap Block, Warmup Traverse, etc.).  If you are at "What's This?" then Electric Kite will be 20m NW through some scrub oak.  It is a large, white, smooth boulder that is slightly overhanging with several large pockets on the face.

"Mig 28" starts at the right end under the roof/arete.  SDS with a left hand in a huge pocket still on the main face, then go head to head with the enemy in an "inverted" position for the rest of the route.  Employ the heel hook with force, slap those slopers, and decipher the traverse out to a ledge before you pump out.  The problem essentially ends here since you can take a nap on the ledge, but a continuation or alternate finish takes the N side of the arete on crimpers (and lichen) to the top.  Really fun, pumpy line.

Locate the

Trough Arete

or the Gap Block (15m NW of

Trough Arete

), then another 20m or so North of the Gap Block is an East-facing, slightly overhanging wall that is about 5m long.  This juggy traverse is perfect for getting the blood flowing for some other problems in the area.

From the Warmup Traverse, continue North and slightly downhill until you see an obvious South-facing, short dihedral at the South end of a large boulder with a flat top.  The problem is a true jug haul up the corner on huge pockets and flakes.  Do it because it's there.

Break the Chains has really fun climbing with good reaches to good holds. Sit start on an obvious pocket, and move up through pockets to a cool topout on cobbles.

Follow directions to "

What's This?

", and just around the corner to the right (East), find a vertical wall with a downward slanting base.  At the far right end is a roof with a long horizontal pocket.  Start on the downward sloping rock in the middle of the vertical face with a left hand in a two-finger pocket and the right on a pocket/cobble pinch.  Move up to a large white cobble, then make a few more moves to top out.  This is a fun, balancy sequence.

Sit start as for

Slurpee

, but head left through the big hueco to a small crimp, and top out.

Sit start, and move up and right on jugs.

Sit start really low on some good pockets and a left heel hook. Move up and slightly left to a hidden sidepull and then up to the top.

Start on the good rail to the right of the arete, make a move to the right using the nice rail, hit the two finger pocket with your right hand, get your feet on the rail, and head straight up. Good pockets and sidepulls await.

On the North end of the Warm-up Traverse Block, start on the NE corner of the block matching on a fat jug. Get good high feet, and make two mice to the right to gain a crimp move up right through the jugs. Top out on the far right side of the wall. Cruise left to right.

The directions on how to get here are in the rock description.  Again, a picture will make this problem much easier to identify.

An obvious SDS in a small corner with two chalked holds on the right face and two more small, sloping ramps higher up.  An overhanging arete makes up the right side, while the left is covered in green and yellow lichen.  There are several ways to move to the small slopers, but the easiest is not obvious at first glance.  Once the decent little ramp on the left is reached, the crux is moving past here to a bad sloper on the right, or some small, sharp pockets on the left.  The rest of the route has good holds to the top.

Description

Protection

Routes in Five and Dime Boulders