Begin about 75 ft. left of  The Oxbow Incident on the right side of a detached block. The route follows left-trending cracks and chimneys interspersed with vegetated ledges for approximately 400 ft. You then reach a left-racing corner which leads to a 4th class summit scramble. The decent follows a gully just left of the route. Follow the gully to the skier's right until you reach a slung juniper tree. Do an 80 ft rappel to another slung tree located in a narrow gully below. Another single rope rappel will lead you to a large series of ledges. Continue scrambling down and right until you reach another slung tree and do one double-rope rappel to the ground.

10 Percent

Organ Grinder

Organasm (Free)

Organasm

Zion's version of Separate Reality and Tales of Power.

P1: Climb an easy hand crack to an offwidth flare passing two anchors. Steep 3s in a hanging corner then lead to a two body length hand crack roof. Pull the roof and continue with hands for another 20 feet to an anchor. Careful back cleaning and runnering keeps the drag reasonable. Using gear in a secondary crack at the lip keeps the rope from diving deep. 5.11+ ~35m

P2: Tight hands through a smaller roof to a thin crack on a varnished face. Great finger and hand pods with some face climbing between. 5.12b ~35m

(P3): A short 5.7 could take you to a walk off, but most would likely rap from above P2

Descent: The top of P2 is about 68m off the ground. Two 70m ropes does it in one, though a single 70m may get you down with some swinging. P2 is steep and leaning.

p1. Climb the crack in the cave to a ledge. Place a cam and head out left into the great chimney that is now run out due to rock fall (keep your back to the pillar seems best). Probably best to head back over to the crack after a bit when the chimney climbing gets scary and you need some gear. The anchors are at the top of the pillar/block  p2. Climb down and right to the flaring deep awkward good hands and feet through the offwidth crux. There used to be a tree at top for an anchor that is likely dead now. Some bolts are needed for the last anchor if none have been placed (else it'll be pretty awkward anchoring). If there are none then to descend go left (east) to the gully and upon nearing the bottom keep traversing back toward the climb.

Organasm

is an excellent intro into Zion aid climbing.  At just 4 pitches, it's half the commitment of nearby neighbors

Touchstone Wall

and

Spaceshot

.  Furthermore, pitches 1 and 4 may be free climbed at a modest 5.8 and 5.7, respectively.

P1

(5.8) Free climb 5.8 crack up pillar, past a single bolt, and continue through awkward wide section to gain a decent stance at a sling belay.

P2

(C1) Aid through a stellar roof through a splitter crack with bomber C1 placements.  The crux of the route is probably cleaning this pitch, so be sure to read up on cleaning roofs BEFORE attempting (better yet, get some practice at your local area)! Continue past roof to a bolted anchor.

P3

(C2) A fairly long (150'?) pitch. Aid through second (smaller) roof and out onto arête. Straightforward nutting and good cam placements up this vertical crack, which ends on a nice ledge with bolted anchors.

P4

(5.7) Short section up easy 5.7 crack to top.

For a topo of the route, check

this

out.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Organ