Another fun warm-up romp with stemming, terraced climbing, and chossy jugs oh my!!!

SPF2020

Walk In The Park

Dr. Know

Chick Flakey

Fun in the Sun

Cheap Lipstick

Powder Puff

Goldfinger

My Son

My Sun

Heart of Darkness

Red Hot

Just left of "cheap lipstick" and slightly right of a crack.  Better quality rock than the neighboring "cheap lipstick".  Fun enough if looking for something easy, short and in the sun.

Mayr guidebook indicates 5.8 - that's a bit of a stretch.

Furthest route on the right. Easy climbing to anchor.

Route is easily identifiable by bolt line.  All bolts seem to clip from the left.  This route is awkward and you are nearly forced to use one arm gastons.  Extremely difficult to see holds and bolts during low sun in the winter.

Climb up bolt protected boulder to ledge. Long reach or magic feet to gain well chalked flake.  Use positive flake then finger crack to gain footing.  Follow bolt line to anchors.  Fun!

Follow dihedral up bolt line to anchor.  Positive holds and nice route for the grade.

This route is described in the Mayr guide as 5.9* - Rock quality is suspect, 1st bolt is ridiculously low and to in my opinion didn't have a single .9 move on it.  Saying it's .7 is generous.

It does however have sunny exposure and no approach.  Bring a ropebag as the belay is dusty and dirty.

If you've got time for one more route with southern exposure this may be a good bet.  Route follows obvious bolt line to summit and provides fun and positive holds.  Vertical but not steep and gets that "one more" route in.  Much better than its sister "Dr. Know" which is found to the left.

AKA The Easiest Route at NJC... Fun romp up big holds. Great 1st lead!!!

Start on jugs traversing left to a shelf. Then launch up the face on mostly good holds... Still a little crispy, but should clean up with some traffic.

Start up a corner to the ledge... Clip the 2nd bolt then trend right (gingerly), to avoid the heart of darkness. Clip the 3rd bolt and pull the crux in the seam. Then fun, juggy climbing to the top.

Still cleaning up, but worth a romp. Tread lightly between the 2nd and 3rd bolts.

Hard move off the deck to make the first clip, and another hard sequence to make the second clip. Very sequential and height dependent move to make the third clip. Sustained through the next two clips, and easier terrain to the anchor. The anchor on this route is a indoor gym type clip anchor designed for TR. Full sustained value at the grade!

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Sunnyside