This route has the classic formula:  steep, sustained climbing punctuated by a mid-crux and another crux guarding the chains.  Another Todd Graham classic.

Flamed Thrower

Friendly Fire

Dudes Lick It

Bear Backin It

Holy Smoke

Gold Rush

Appetizer

Dudes Squeezin Chicks

Mercy Buckets

Chicks Dig It

Ashes to Ashes

Flying Circus

Tiered roof climbing at it's best.  One of the steeper climbs of it's grade.  A real gem.

Located on the far right side of The Columns between Ashes To Ashes (5.11d) and Easy Rider (5.11c). The start of this route (first two bolts) is shared with Holy Smoke (5.11c) which then cuts up and left.

Climb past the shared start with Holy Smoke (5.11c) and continue up the long face on endless flat-topped edges to anchors just below the very top of the crag. Sustained climbing on positive holds with no stopper moves; this is very reminiscent of the climbing at the Owens River Gorge.

The first 80 feet of this route, up to the large roof, is excellent 5.10 climbing on superb quality rock. Alone, it would surely merit a four star rating and would provide a fantastic 5.10c warm-up. The climbing, however, continues over the awkward crux roof and deceptive face above. A chain draw and a hanger with a carabiner have been installed so that climbers can lower off at the lip of the roof and enjoy the moderate climbing below without committing to the 5.11 section above. 8 quick-draws will get you to the roof.

Climb past 3 chain draws to a large, intimidating roof. Above the roof, a welcomed rest is encountered before tackling the steep, boulder problem crux. Huge buckets above the crux offer another rest before negotiating two more, smaller roofs, the second one being an onsight killer. Finally, a moderate dihedral leads you to the anchor. Besides the first 8 feet of this route, the rock is of high quality and the climbing is superb.

Clip the first 2 bolts of Friendly Fire then go left up a vertical column to a black bulge.

Steep climbing with a distinct crux.  Fun and bouldery.

Begin at a two foot pine sapling that grows at eye level. Skirt right of the sapling past two bolts to a bulge at twenty feet. Two bolts up steep, featured rock lead to a large roof with a fixed chain draw. pull the roof and face climb past two bolts up and right to another, smaller roof. Clip over the roof and tackle the crux, which is getting established on the face above. one more bolt leads to the anchor.

This climb is an alternate, slightly better finish to Dudes Lick It. At the sixth bolt of DLI, instead of moving right to lower angle, moderate climbing, move up and left to negotiate a steep, left leaning arete. After a delicate crux move above the seventh bolt, dance up the glassy arete past two more bolts to a stance. from here, moderate face climbing past three bolts takes you to the top of the cliff.

The standard warm-up at the cliff.  Great climbing up through an initial roof.  Then up edges to a final roof system.  Great holds and no standout hard moves.  Good rock and moves.

Face to roof to black bulge, a little dirty.

Follows an outlandish overhanging fin.  The route comes down to a cool boulder problem capped by steep 5.11.  Superb!

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in 7) The Columns