Short, but maybe my favorite route at Snowshed.  Well spaced fists and hands in pods, then a respite of jugs to a cave.  Plug some stuff into the roof, get the feet high, and make a blind(ish) reach right to escape.  Finish by stepping back left and heading up to the chains...Fun, fun, fun!!!!

Night Gallery (aka Rick And Eric's)

Side Effect

Pumping Cannibals

Night Country

Pump Lust

Cannibals

Puppet On A String

Conform Or Be Cast Out

Puppet Direct

Sanitation Crack

Salad Bar

Pumped Puppets

This route follows the diagonal line from right to left...starting on the original Puppet On A String and finishing on Cannibals.

Slightly overhanging, lie back finger/hand crack. The crux is a short traverse out right while lying back.  A great route. The crux felt 10ish.

Contrived? Sure, but this thing hits the best of both routes. Climb the thuggy business of Pump Lust and turn left after the 4th bolt. Be sure to save some extra lust for those Cannibals crimps guarding the upper headwall.

A thin fingers crack mixed with a bit of face climbing.

This incredible line is even better than Cannibals and my favorite sport climb in the Tahoe vicinity. Start the same as Cannibals but after the second bolt float straight up with brilliant sequences utilizing high friction crimps, opposing side pulls and slopers, and a few deceptively flaring pods. Again the footwork will determine success or agony. Trust the crystals and an obligatory heelhook. Slightly runout but easier climbing leads to a 12a finger and hands crack system for the second half of the climb which may leave you whipping and whimpering if you don't work out the sweet spots.

A technical masterpiece of face-climbing wizardry exemplifying the best Donner has to offer. This is the first route in the Cannibals Gully to the right of the "Little Feat" arete. Work up into a shallow right-facing dihedral, then follow the left trending panel on a series of thin liebacks and underclings. Tackle the thuggish, devious boulder problem with seemingly nonexistent feet which then deposits you at a "thank god" jug for recovery at half heighth. The upper face challenges you with a series of small crimps, side pulls, small pinches and finally the infamous "peanut," none of which will do you much good unless you deduce the footwork trickery.

Hard for the grade.

This route features crimps, cracks, and everything in between. Start in a wide crack (same start as

Rick and Eric's

), but move left after clipping the first bolt. A left-leaning seam leads you into a powerful crux, and eventually into two parallel thin cracks that you'll use to make your way to a hand-jamming finish. A direct-start variation apparently goes at 5.13b.

Nasty arete to the left of Sanitation Crack. Thin techy moves lead to easier moves near the top...this pitch has scored at least one broken ankle with it's very balancy second clip. You may want to "preview" or "review" from Sanitation anchors.

A very reachy start to a 3-bolt long boulder problem, then it joins Puppet on a String.

The difficulty is unfortunately quite height dependent, hence the slash grade. For the shorties, the crux will be getting off the ground, while the lanky monkeys will likely find it past the 2nd bolt.

According to the guidebook, the route can also be done at 13a A0 by some French freeing shenanigans.

Located on the extreme north side of the east face of snowshed wall, this short route heads up a flared crack from atop a large block.

You can throw all different types of jams to pull yourself up this route, and there are also small holds outside of the crack for hands and feet if you need them.

Intrigued? For the full show, you'll need to bust through the Pump Lust crux to bolt 6––but deny the temptation to clip it, lest you'll find yourself tightly strung on the climbing ahead. Instead traverse right for two bolts to intersect with Puppets on a String. Dance through the upper sequence on Puppets and hold on tight or you may find yourself dangling like a marionette. This has been called the best route in the corridor.

Note: this is slightly different from Pump on a String as described in the North Tahoe guidebook, but this seems to be the more popular variation––likely because Pump on a String requires a super long draw on the 4th bolt of Salad Bar, whereas the described variation traverses right and directly crosses the 4th bolt of Salad Bar.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in 4. Cannibals Gully