The Cave Direct is a sit start problem that starts as low as possible in the "cave" of the jugs boulder, then crosses the traversing line of "she's got jugs" and finishes up the face on crimps to the right of the "jugs" top out. The lower the sand the harder it gets.

Jugs Cave Direct

Hole in One

Houda Shretah

Houda Traverse

Laces Out aka Houdini Traverse

South Side Traverse

no name

Double Dip

Surf Perch

Houda Crack

She's Got Jugs

Pas Trop Vite

One of the most classic problems on the beach. Traverse for 15 feet on giant jugs, starting from the far right side of the "jugs" boulder, swing off the "horn" hold to a sinker four finger pocket and top out up the center of the main face. Repeat until pumped.

Hole in One is a fun problem on the "Jugs" boulder and a a must-do when running around the beach doing the V1-V3 circuit. "Hole" is a straight up problem about 6 feet to the left of the "She's Got Jugs" top out. Start on the lowest incut edges and follow these until they thin out. Get your feet high, reach left for a golf ball size, 2 finger pocket, lie back the pocket and latch the top finishing with a positive mantle.

begin at the volume

cut left to the jug to skip the first crux

or go left hand up to the pinch and cross right hand into the gaston for the direct line.

make it to the pinches

then the side pull

finish at first positive ledge feature

possible finish at the second left hand jug

really fun and difficult problem

traverse from left to right or right to left.

from start of houda crack traverse right to the arete. finish by sending the arete for the jug two hand match finish.

The South Side Traverse is the longest traverse of its grade in the area. With a length of over 150 feet, it is a great warm up for a day's session. Although some of the rock is sharp, the moves are great, and like much of the beach climbing, it provides variety as the sand levels change during the year. This traverse pretty much always has sand landings when others in the area don't. Becuase of the southern aspect, it can be warm and wind free on a sunny winter day. Try it both directions for different moves.

warm up feet and fingers on this one arm reach to the top.

sit start is difficult but the top out has really great holds

Traverse left to right and then "top out" onto a big ledge. The problem starts on positive holds, continues through a couple of slopey crossovers and pulls the overhanging swing moves to finish.

fun problem. lots of key holds have broke over the years..

the left version of this problem is v1 but the climb is over really sharp rock.

the right version of this problem is v2/3 squat/stand start; v5/6 sit start at the low striking crimp

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Houda North