Westface of Northwest Rock Face

Many Variations to the start to get on the main face and plenty of Var of 5.8 climbing then up and over the left roof.

Lead Bat Crack 5.5 to setup TR.

West face of Northwest Rock Face

Shoelace Joe

The Cleavage

Highstep Face Traverse

Cote Memorial Wall

West face of Northwest Rock Roof Problem

The Right Side Arete on the North Face of the North Roc

Bat Crack

The Middle Right Side of the North Face on the North Ro

West (or NW) face

This route is located on the southeast face of the northwest most large rock in the Indian Joe Caves area, and has some high-step slabby balance fun moves.

The large chimney is located just to the left of this route, and this is the only climb on this face.  Start on the bottom left corner of the rock, and work your way up and right.

There are no easy moves in this climb, but I think 5.11a is a generous rating. You will swing around the corner in a fall, as the route is quite traversy feeling in regards to where to the bolts are, and getting back on route after a fall is almost impossible. Be sure to have your belayer standing solidly, or he / she may take quite a swing also.

For me doing the crux wasn't the hard part, but figuring out where to go AFTER the crux was quite difficult.

Facing south east on the west-most rock with climbing at Indian Joe Caves, Shoelace Joe ascends the overhanging slight dihedral right of the start of the 5.11b roof climb (and well left of Bat Crack).  Originally, we attempted it as a more exciting start to the 11b, but soon realized that it had its own personality as a quality bouldering problem.  Stay right of the simpler vertical face just right of the arete.

This route chimneys the obvious crack that separates the two bolted rocks on the far (north) side of the area.

Many people simply don't bother with pro, when we were there a group of poeple climbed the chimney with tennis shoes on, but didn't go to the top, as there is a bailout to the left (the start of the 5.12c and 5.11a climbs on the southeast side of the rock) 15 feet shy of the top of the route.

Located on the Leftmost side of the North Face of Cleavage Rock. Access Route for most other climbs on Cleavage rock. As stated in Supertopo guide: "Easiest way up and down the North side of the rock".

This rock lost a big chunk towards the top in the last number of years and has been bolted as a sport climb since early 2020.

From the main entrance area with Fools Gold and Indian Joe, go left down the creek and hang a right before the creek drops off. Scramble over and down to get to the start of the climb.

Climb slab up three bolts to just below a bulge. From there you work up and onto the triangle shaped face to finish with new mussy hooks.

Shoelace Joe V4 is a variation start of the route, best on top rope.

This route starts on the bottom of the Northernmost rock, just around the corner from The Cleavage (5.4), which chimneys the obvious crack on the west side of this rock.

This is quite downhill from many other routes on the rock, which is why this route is so much longer (at 40') than the next climb to the left, which is about 25 feet.

Climb the face using the arete when necessary to the top anchors.

There's an altnernate start that begins on the overhanging arete, which goes at about a 5.10b.

Perfect hand size crack that steepens as you ascend. Good feet at the bottom give way to big jugs and smears at the top.

This ascends the shorter side of the north face of the northernmost rock in the Indian Joe Caves. This route heads up the cracklike system that begins 15 feet off the ground, and then turns a small roof to reach the top of the rock. Short and sweet, this climb is a pain in the heat.

TR this after going up Cote Memorial Wall 5.3.

on the left side super small thin crack.

Tons of Var on the right and left side.

Description

Protection

Routes in Cleavage Rock