A devious and wandering crux section will limit on sights of this route.  A second bit of business up high will put your red point in jeopardy. 

Fatmando

Grecian Corner

Zippy

Griffy's Wild Ride

Gearhead

Arterial  Flow

Unfinished Sympathy

Energy Crisis

Face Of A Dictator

Anna's Route

Just For Men

Hairy Interlude

Pinelope Cruise

Shelf Life

Pinhead Crack

Critics Choice

Zerbina

Go Speed Racer

Needle Noggin

'11 Is Out '12 Is In.

Gray Matter

This is one of those face climbs that from the ground make you doubt it will even be climbable.  Balance moves and thin edge climbing with a final section that can be tough if you do it wrong.  This climb joins Grecian Corner for the last 30 feet or so.

A moderate warmup for the wall.  

  Sustained at the grade with great movement

Thin face through a bulge, don't be afraid to wander a bit.  There is a short run between the first and second bolt that isn't hard but if you blow it you will be very sore.

Three sections broken by a ledge and a slabby section.   Fun steep face climbing leads to a ledge then a thought provoking and hard to unravel bulge.  The finish is fun and is a nice way to end this too short journey.

This route goes up the crack and chimney to the right of Fatmando.  Tricky gear in funky rock.  Andy Bennett got the first free ascent after I broke a hold and fell on the FA.

A must do on the Pin Head wall.  

  Two cruxes, one low and one high with a powerful finish through the roof.  

  The 15 feet of easy climbing in the middle is welcome after the pumpy start and quickly forgotten as you tackle the face below the roof.

This climb is on the west end of the buttress no where near where it is shown in SQII.  Pretty fun climb with good pro.  Anchors are up and right of the large broken pillar quite a ways off the line.  They are there because the FA team had planned to climb the crack above but it turned out to be too chossy.  This climb has an old school feel with some runs on much easier ground.

Hard start with a spooky flake that you start on.  One bolt about 10 feet up and below a thin seam.  Two pitches.  Second pitch heads up overhanging crack.

Technical climbing and puzzling sequences on steep rock.

Ray says he drilled this line about 10 years ago for a girl named Anna who wanted to do an FA.  Then she abandoned the effort.  Ray never red-pointed it either, so it sat as an open project.  It's hard to believe it would sit for long because it is a nice-looking line and there are zillions of climbers in the country that could cruise it.  In fact I saw a local flash it pretty easily yesterday (may 2016).  So I assume the FA is unknown. 

  I normally like routes that are at least slightly overhung.  This one seems dead vertical but I like it anyway because it has an unusual combination of good handholds but marginal footholds.  How is that possible ? Because the handholds are mostly side-pulls and underclings so they don't turn into good footholds as you climb past them. 

  Most of the route is about 5.11 but there is a definite, height-intensive, crux after the fourth bolt.  Climbers who are 6'6" might think it is 5.11d.  Climbers who are 5'2" will likely think 12c.  If you are my height (5'10") the crux is very pretty if you do it right, and 5.12 seems right on.

One more rare Mt. Lemmon hard crack.  Pumpy climbing passed good gear leads to a ledge. Then hard face climbing off the right side of the ledge past four bolts to the chains.  

  (This climb no longer joins 11 Is Out 12 is In.  It has it's own harder finish now)

Fun climbing though some steep sections on thin holds.  The upper headwall gets a good deal harder with a stout clip off of thin crimps in the middle of the crux.

Hard start to interesting movement in the middle to a hard bulge near the top.  Needs traffic to get the dust off but worth overlooking for the fun moves you will do.

Grungy crack that get you to the top of the cliff.

Slightly overhanging sustained face climbing with a sequential crux.  Get ready to crimp on this one.

Steep broken looking face that is better than it looks.

This climb has multiple steep sections separated by moderate sections or ledges.  The finish is a little airy and you have to make a move or two to reach the chains.

25 to 30 feet of hard leads you to easier ground and a blocky ledge.  The blocks on the ledge are more stable than they look but you still need to tread carefully.  The headwall above the ledge will get you refocused.

Tricky and hard moves lead to a big ledge. Above, it gets hard again and finishes with a fun traverse to the right. 

A large fin of rock that juts out of the hillside.  It has a broken up south face that looks like it would have some routes on it if someone was to do a lot of cleaning.  The routes I know of are on the narrow west face just before you reach the north face and on the north face.  The rock is generally good but not bullet hard as a rule.  You will occasionally find some funk somewhere on the climbs but the big stuff is usually solid.  There are a few trad routes, some old aid routes that may or may not reach the top and a bunch of sport routes.  The north face is shady and can be climbed most of the year.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Pinhead Wall