This is the hardest completed route at Gillman.  Its shorter than most gym routes, and the upper half is mid-5.11, so basically you're lookin' at a 15 foot boulder problem, which explains this route's absurd popularity.  The route is hard right off the ground with a tricky move to get established.  The crux comes about 6 feet off the deck with dynamic moves to small, slopey crimps.  Stick clip highly recommended.  

  The route is listed as 13c in the guide book (Jemez Rock, by J. Marc Beverly, Sharp End Publishing), but its more like light duty 13b.  I doubt very much this route would be given a grade any harder than 13a at Rifle, but hey, this is NM.   

  The route faces west, and so is probably climbable year round (I did it in July).  Given the narrow-ness of the canyon, in winter it probably only sees brief sun.

Dough Boy

Puddy Girl

Git That Worm

Never Forget

Puddy Girl is one of the hardest lines in the canyon, ascending a SW-facing buttress of bulges on high-quality granite.  The route offers intruiging moves and a somewhat spicy final sequence.  Unfortunately a no-hands rest at mid-height reduces the line to a series of two excellent boulder problems. 

  Begin easily with opposing sidepulls on light brown, relatively poor rock.  At the third bolt the angle kicks back, but a weakness on the left provides good holds, leading to a big move to a great jug.  Mantle onto the slab and rest as long as you like. 

  Traverse right onto the hanging prow.  Sloping sidepulls and an excellent double-crimp work over the bulge.  The crux comes trying to get the feet established on the headwall, and clipping the 7th bolt.   A few more thin moves with difficult-to-see feet lead to the anchor.

A bolted route just left of Never Forget provides a good beginner lead, with the crux off the ground unless you stem to the gully on the left.  A steep section with big holds is found at the 3rd bolt and is pretty fun.  Up high, you the climb turns into scrambling up some easy blocky stuff (3rd class); this part doesn't have bolts, but you won't fall. 

  From this climb, you can set a TR on Never Forget (5.9), as they share the same anchor. 

  I cleaned up a significant amount of broken glass from the upper section of the climb, but some may remain; this may have been from the efforts of someone trying to "Git That Worm"!

This unmemorable route doesn't leave much of an impression.  Never Forget might make for a suitable warmup if all the other moderates are taken on a busy weekend.  Otherwise the nearby Left Arrow has much better warmup options than this short, dirty line. 

  Begin on the prow, then move up black-stained rock into the shallow dihedral.

The scattered routes of the Perp Area are of substantially lower quality than those of the neighboring Broken Arrows, but this area does offer some worthy lines.  The Perp Area is the collection of routes right (S) of the Right Arrow, including those on the short buttress just right of the Right Arrow, those beginning from the sloping ledge just above this buttress, and the routes many yards to the right, including Puddy Girl and Dough Boy.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Perp Area