This is the thin crack in the center of the left face. It looks trivial, but it took me quite a while to get off the ground. Turned out to be easy, but hard to see. If you're shorter it may not be easy and will likely require some dicey foot moves. Since this face narrows at the top, as you finish this route you'll likely be using holds on all 3 climbs on this face.

Quick Hit

Wake 'n Bake

King of the Hill

Cough it Up

CIA (Cannabis in Action)

Bureau Headquarters

This is the leftmost and easiest route on the crag, a right-leaning crack in a shallow, right-facing corner. There are slabby feet on knobs and a few crack moves. There's a short, wide section of crack midway, but wide crack technique is not needed. At the top, you'll likely be reaching right to the thin crack of

Quick Hit

which angles towards this route.

This climbs the slabby right side of the left face of Small Package Block. The crux is at the 3rd and 4th bolts. At the top I was using the thin crack of Quick Hit on the left and the arete on the right.

This climb tackles the thin bolted crack right of

Bureau Headquarters

. It is steep, bouldery, and insecure. It has a reinforced flake but otherwise clean. Tape is a good idea as well. This was freed a number of years ago before the new book came out and is worth a hike or two to climb.

CIA climbs the steep, right-leaning layback/jam crack just right of the arete that separates the left and right faces. I thought this was the best route on the crag. Although short, it felt like real climbing. I TR'd it on self-belay, and laybacked much of it with my left hand on the arete. It felt easier than 10d, Rolofson's rating, maybe 10b. Laybacking should be feasible on the lead, since there's a couple of good spots where you can stop and place gear.

This is the obvious, steep, right-leaning, right-facing corner near the center of the right face. I really thrashed on this on TR on self-belay. After figuring it out, no move was all that hard, but the obvious way, climbing the crack straight on was (all that hard).

Description

Protection

Routes in Small Package Block