Once and still considered a mega-classic. Follow the left angling flake crack with good holds that are quite spaced and bad feet to its end on a monster jug. Make a huge move out left to an OK hold, heal hook right and go right hand to a gaston. Then swing the feet left to another heal and go to a left hand gaston, step up and top out. 

  Alternately, go the the right hand gaston with the left hand as a side pull and make a big move straight up the blunt prow over a worse landing for a slightly harder and more direct finish. Seems to be rarely done, but it is actually quite good especially if you've done the original finish multiple times. 

Location

  Just left of Dry Dock around the corner following the sweet left arching flake/crack.

Dragon Fly, AKA: Dogmatics

Dry Dock

Satan, Satan, Satan

Full Service

Brittany in a Blender

Black, White, and Red All Over

Sweat Loaf

Hector in a Blender

Ides of March

Try Harder

Dry Dock Low

Crimping Christ on a Cross

Rembrandt Pussyhorse

Lip Service

Brutus

Hobbit in a Blender

Strung Out

Tri Hard

The Ostracizer

Dragonfly Low AKA: Fish on a Stick

The Notorious D.I.G.

Hooker with a Penis

Left most climb on the Sweat Loaf boulder, move up through opposing sidepulls or theres a couple good crimps as options too.

Crux is either the first move or the top out if you are figuring it out on the fly.  Many believe this hard for the grade.  This problem is SICK!!!!!

Really fun line of huecos on the far right side of the wall with Rembrandt Pussyhorse. Start as low as you can in the huecos and go straight up. The topout is the crux.

This is the original V10 at Hueco (the standard for V10, in fact), and it is still considered by many to be the best. It was one of the most sought after ticks in the '90's and it still is for that matter.

 John Sherman originally envisioned the line and had done the stand, Lip Service, when Dale Goddard sent the full rig, calling it "Serves You Right." However, Sherman's name, "Full Service," seems to have stuck.

A very pretty problem, with unique holds and puzzling movement. 

  Sit start on an obvious slopey shelf and go straight up using edges, underclings, a very slopey pod, and some kneebar trickery until you reach two very small, sharp crimps on the lip of the roof.  Mantle up and left over a slightly scary slab.  Hence the PG13.

Black, White, and Red All Over is not as classic as some of the other climbs in the area but certainly worth a try. 

       Start on a low crimpy rail and pull a few hard moves to an slightly chossy top out.

Sit start in the middle of the Sweat Loaf boulder. Follow the fun huecos up, and make a big move left for the classic finish. Topout is probably easier than Satan, Satan, Satan.

This problem named in honor of the park ranger Hector, starts in Ides of March and ends to the left on Brutus. Hector always said he climbed and he understood climbers and what we were about, nice generalization since all climbers are definitly the same. Sometimes it's an honor to be put in a blender and sometimes not, Hobbit, Brittney, Alf etc. we'll leave this open to interpretation. 

  From the start of Ides of March make thin, long moves up and left into the middle of Brutus. The holds are particularly thin and sharp but is worth doing if you've already done Ides and Brutus.

The rightmost problem of the 3 on this face of the boulder.  Make sure you have a good spotter because of the boulder behind you.

This problem begins under the roof matched on an undercling.  Climbs through some compression moves until a toss into a pocket (inside a hueco).  4 stars for awesome holds, movement, landing and obvious line.   

  Beta:  Start  matched on the undercling and squeeze between two opposing feet.  Through out right hand to an undercling and toss again for a 90 degree angled sloper.  Right foot over to compress on a heel hook down and right of your hand.  Bump left hand into a bad pinch eight inches from the starting hold and switch your left foot from a heel hook on the starting hold to a good toe hook.  Sag.  Match the other 90 degree hold right next to your left hand.  Switch the right heel hook to pushing with your toe and do a dynamic move to the lip, you will begin to cut feet and swing out desperately so very quickly swing your right hand to an undercling a foot (back) into the cave.  Heel hook up and match the large hueco.  (This is the beginning of Try Hard FA Ricky O V5).  Cross into an undercling pinch at the top of the hueco and left hand to a decent crimp.  Switch you heel to a toe and surge up to a good but hard to hold hueco.  Match your right foot to your left and toe hook the right undercling by your hand, reach up (slowly... slowly...) to a jug on the lip rock over.

Aka Wet Dock? Start matched on the lower undercling (where your feet go for Dry Dock) and finish Dry Dock.

Recommend taping your tips on this one. 

  From the sit, grab a few razor blades and a good pinch on the arete. Then move to a left hand hold that is just a tooth. Move up onto improving holds and into the crack. Follow the crack up and right to top out. 

  Fun climbing where you actually work the arete. You always have a hand and foot on each side.

While not quite as classic as some of the other V5's in the area (Dragon Fly, AKA: Dogmaticsand Hobbit in a Blender), this one is still worthy of some skin. 

  Starts just right of the thin arete Crimping Christ on a Cross on a positive flake about 7 ft off the ground.  Pull off the ground and make a few difficult moves up side pulls and crimps to an easy top out.

A great problem with a tough opening move and a comitting move up higher to a cool mantle. The start holds are reputedly chipped out to be better, though there is so much chalk on them now that it is hard to tell though it seems plausible. 

  Start on the two positive crimps and get one foot or the other on and bust a move out right to gaston at the bottom of the crack. Get a foot up near the start holds and fall in to match in the crack. Layback up a move or two and make a long move up to a jug at the top of the crack. You can top out straight up but it is better to do another long move out right to another jug and hand foot match on the first and mantle from here up to some edges on the face above.

A short problem. Start matched in a slot (difficult for those with larger fingers). Make a couple deadpoints to reach the lip. Top out.

The stand start to Try Harder. Big moves on sloping huecos above a huge undercut roof.

Starts on a huge flake with the crux being the toss to the left after the flake ends.

Start below the good left facing flake on Dragonfly, on pretty good underclings.  Smear your feet and make either a long move right up to the start hold on dragonfly, or bump to a bad sidepull then to the starting hold on dragonfly.  Finish up Dragonfly. 

  Probably a gimme at the grade.

This problem starts on two crimps and does a lock off move to a odd incut pocket.  High right foot, hit the gaston and jump with the right hand to the lip.

Sit start with a low left hand. Sharp and uncomfortable holds, but the movement ain't bad. Only worth getting on if you've already done the other climbs...

Probably one of the top 3 most trafficed areas before the guided access restrictions. With great problems in the mid-range from V2 or so to V7, sadly you are not allowed to climb on several of the boulders even when on a tour (the 3 bimbos) which makes the area a little more limited but still quite popular. Classics include the Oseter problems V2 and 3, Hobbit V5, Dragonfly V5, Dry Dock V7++, Full Service V10 and many others that are worth doing when in the area. Truly there is something for everyone at the Dragon's Den.

Description

Protection

Routes in Dragon's Den