Sit start with a left hand on a slanted edge and a very low right hand on a rail. Make your way up to the stand start using some bizarre compression trickery.

Looks harder than it is.

The Sunrise Tango - Sit

Naked and Afraid

Mr. Wrinkles, the Irritable Insurance Salesman

Two Buck Chuck

Stairway to Some Mythical Place

Royal Arete

Escalator to Heaven

Pocket Change

Kings Corner

Cashew nut

The Sunrise Tango

Two Dollar Deal

Pocket Change SDS

Morning Glory

Start on the far left of the boulder on a thin seam. Traverse right and up along the seam below the miniroof, reaching the undercling flake and then the jug. Head straight up from here, making a big move from a pinch to the ledge. Stand up and proceed to heaven.

"They're stranded in a dangerous, desolate location, without food or water, and they're completely naked."

Start matched in a left facing undercling in the mini-cave / hueco at waist-height, center of the boulder.  Make a couple moves to gain the top of the mini-bulge and use a pocket foothold out left to make the crux throw for the top!

Potential for a sit-start down and to the right beginning on a juggy-ledge.

**Disclaimer: As always, lmk if this has been done before!**

Start to the right of Morning Glory. Follow the water runoff funnel to the top. The rock is worse quality, and the start is a bit more awkward. Still fun if you're in the area.

Sit down start on the two undercling sidepulls. Use some footwork trickery to pull on and slap chuck to a sloper out right. Get established on the lip and mantel.

Start as for Kings Corner, with left hand sloper over the lip and right hand pinch under the lip.

Follow the arete/face up and right, exiting right over the adjacent rock.

Ride the escalator on the far left side, with the big blocky angled ledges. Follow them up and right to the horizontal sloping ledge. Mantel up and away.

Start on the two pockets at chest height. Make a crux move to the next good pocket, and then have a blast using a great variety of crimps, pockets and slopers to gain the top. Great climbing in a great location!

The sit start is open project, adding a couple very hard moves. Will certainly bump the line up multiple duckets(??) and **s(??). The crimps are there, and they're solid, it's just... really hard.

Sit down start with left hand on a sloper pinch just over the lip and right hand on the right angled pinch under the lip.

Bust some good moves up to the big appetizing pocket and then transfer left into the small corner and easier terrain.

Enjoy the excellent view and awesome 'throne' on top.

Start low on crimps,move up and out using slopers.

Start with your right hand on a small nubbin and your left in a sloping dish on the arete. Make some technical and balancy moves using crimps and small pockets to reach the deep hueco and easier ground.

The shorter inclined may have to stack pads to reach the dish.

Start as for 'Two Buck Chuck', in the undercling sidepulls with some tricky footwork, but head left. Reach to the dish on the prow, and pull the lip on slopers and a tricky mantel.

Another surprisingly fun mini boulder.

Two variations:

Direct, SDS directly under the stand of Pocket Change, and two tiny, sharp but incut crimps. Make some hard pulls and join directly into Pocket Change. V8-9ish

Start down and right, on a sidepull for and a nice pinch. Toss a heel, lock it off and join back left into Pocket Change. V7-8ish

Highstep onto the white face of immaculate patina and cruise to the top. One of the most scenic problems around.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Morning Glory