Here's an open project that will make for a stout, mostly traditionally protected route. Probably the most difficult at Iron Mt Crag and all around hardest at Cumberland. Although technically maybe not as hard as Worth The Wait at 7 Mile, placing gear while defying the pump.... and the pain.... should make this route a worthy opponent for most climbers.

3 bolts were added in 2020. 1st bolt is in softish rock but can be backed up with 2 cams a little lower. An all gear ascent is possible but probably R rated. Still needs a scrub up top.

Project

Baby On Board

Punked

PTO For Thor

Fe Man Bulge

Fly Fighter

Fe Line

Bathtub Moment

Tradsendence

Iron And Whine

The Girl Next Door

Tradical

Little Big Crack

Watch Me

Airy, physical climbing with lots of exposure, good rests and features galore! Good pro

This is a worthy route which will be deserving of 3 stars after a couple more scrub sessions. Start with a couple bolts through the mossy serpentine and then some solid face climbing, albeit mossy for now, using tricky key lock cam placements. Continue up the blocky ramp for a few moves (watch what you pull on) and then go left using 3 bolts and through a super juggy, fun roof. A couple more bolts through some overlaps and finally the rewarding 5.7 crack (slight right) to the anchors. Shares the same anchors as Tradsendance.

An excellent sport climb running through some small roofs.

As you peak-a-boo through the forest on the short approach trail, the first feature that pops out at you is an overhang with a few perma draws dangling. This is PTO For Thor. Start as for "Little Big Crack" which is a little spicy but all there (10d), but instead of heading straight up that route, cut right (2x equalized 0 metolius and then a bolt) to a great stance under the steep wall above. A couple of small cams protect the start of this section before switching to bolts and then perma draws. The difficulty ramps up until a crux (11d/12a) through the blocky roof is encountered. After surmounting the crux, make sure to save a few pieces of gear for the nice crack above (5.10/5.9) moves.....pump! One of the best at Cumberland.

Climb Fe Line but don't clip the anchor, instead continue up and right through the steep bulge using some thuggish stem work and a final pull around to the right.

A great mixed moderate stopping at the short anchors before the "Fe Man Bulge" extension.

Start as for "Tradical" but continue up the ramp and chimney. A nice alternative to the fore mentioned route for those who would rather stay in the 11+ range.

This line climbs up through a small slab; then progresses to the anchors via a series of interesting features.

Start as for "Punked" through its first two bolts but then make a traverse right towards the short corner/slot. Some nice stemming moves and a crux leads to easier ground until a final sting in the tail is encountered below the top. Use the last bolt of Punked for the finish.

As of 2013 the furthest route to the right makes for a nice warm up. Start in a blocky, ugly gully and then connect horizontal cracks to a step over left passing a single bolt. Finish easily to a bolted anchor. Much better than it looks.

The amazing overhanging ramp and crack system opting for the direct finish rather than continuing up the chimney known as "Bathtub Moment". Unique and airy face climbing, sans bolts, makes this pitch a special one.

An outstanding route that surprisingly takes several tcu's. Start with the steep bubbly blocks past a bolt to a low angled stance under the crack. Use the arete, face holds, jams and even a chicken wing to scale the crack until a bulge with a block/flake feature is surmounted. Enjoy a nice stance before following 2 bolts through the fun overhanging jugs to an anchor. The bolts were added in 2019 and have made for a better protected climb. The original route veered left to an anchor before the new direct bolted finish.

This amazing line climbs up through a interesting crack feature which gains access to the upper slabs; leading eventually to some sweet new anchor.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Iron Mountain Crag