This was the last and best climb we did of the six Upper Wall routes (excluding Little Dickens). We were surprised that it was more taxing than it looked. Seemed like there were consecutive cruxes, all at full 5.7 value.

A.M.C. (Arizona Mouseketeering Club)

Goof-Proof Roof

‘57 Pan Head

Little Dickens

Dust Proof Roof

Fool-Proof Roof

Wired Wizard

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A short and mildly sketchy traverse from the right gets you to the base of right leaning crack system. Micro to small cams and small nuts protect the crux up and over a bulge and into a nice hand crack that widens and narrows back to hands at the top. Stay in the crack or use the yardsale of knobs, jugs, and xenolith for a cruise to the top. 

Cool route up an easy to protect crack from start to finish.  Big holds and a nice crack allows easy access through the roof.

A demanding climb from bottom to top.  A must-do for the McDowells that will definitely scare the Dickens out of you at some point on this route.  Route begins at base of formation on easy and fun crack until thin moves takes you towards the piton.  The next couple of moves are thin and technical until the seam opens up and sinker finger jams and bigger are encountered.  Continue in crack until having to go vertical towards upper and wider crack (maybe a #6 in wide crack).  Some funky moves past some questionable rock and a slippery, bird pooped perch yields more secure jamming and finally the top.

 Do not underestimate the upper portion and save some larger pieces for the final traverse to the summit.

Easy, warm-up route on positive, solid rock.  Cool moves to go over mini-roof.

Nice crack to the roof and exit of your choice.  Easy to protect and fun to climb.

Both ’87 Phx Rock  & '96 Phx Rock II detail this face climb as a runout trad route. I would suspect that the name alludes to this, but for some reason it now has four closely spaced bolts. The first can easily be skipped and the upper two bolts could have been consolidated as a centralized single clip to maintain some of the original flavor. IDK, perhaps the retrobolter asked the first ascentionists to add them. It seems inane for such a moderate climb.

The route has some loose and crumbly rock but never feels difficult.  A neat pinnacle to climb as a warmup or cool down at the end of the day.

Semi low-slung wall up and left of the Main Wall with some good easy-moderate routes on it and one significant challenge (Little Dickens). A couple of the routes here that were originally done with no fixed protection have had multiple bolts added after the fact.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Upper Wall