Inner Space is an excellent and airy way to get to the top of the First Buttress. The corner leading up to the roof can seem a little awkward but nothing like launching into the maw of the roof. After turning the roof through the wide crack, a final fun crack leads to the top of the crag.

Walk off the back side, but be wary of the traverse above the J.P. Tree. So named because John Pearson aka J.P. slipped on the descent once and rode the tree like a bronc bustin' cowboy.

Per

Wesley Neill

: the descent is not a walkoff, it is sketchy 5th Class climbing.

Inner Space

Oh Mama Mama

Cake Walk

The Jackal

Billy Shears

Whiskey Crack

Bourbon Street

Whiskey Dick

Zig Zag

Billy Shears is actually a ground to summit link up of three classic Taylor Canyon standards.

P1. The 1st pitch is the beautiful and very hard 5.10 offwidth swim fest known as "Hurtin' fer Certain". Start as for "Tourist Attraction" but instead of traversing left towards the easy dihedral, go straight up the ominous overhanging wide crack. Get good reliable pro in early as you may not find it easy to stop and get gear higher up. P.1 ends at the leisurely "Sun Deck".

P.2 is the route known as "Jackal" This enjoyable 5.7 pitch is the obvious ski track cracks on the left end of the 1st buttress. Start off of the "Sun Deck" in the crack on the left. The angle progressively steepens until an unusual overhang is encountered. Turn the overhang on the right and continue up the double cracks. At the top of the pitch, rather than head for the regular "Jackal" belay, look for a 15 foot traverse to the left. You are heading to the base of the wide crack that leads through the right side of the clean cut roof high up on the left skyline. Establish a belay at the base of what is known as "Inner Space".

P3. Awkward 5.9 wide crack climbing leads to a spectacular and airy 5.10- roof. Continue up to a nice ledge then up a short but sweet little final crack on the right.

Descend by scrambling up to the top of the 1st buttress then down climbing carefully into the gully on the backside. This gully will lead you left and back down to the parking area. This is really a fun route.

A superb 3 pitch route on the front face of Harmels at the far left side of the big roof. Standard approach is by traversing in from the left off of the Sun Deck past

Whiskey Crack

. This eliminates the 10c direct start through the roof and starts with the stellar 9+ finger crack, but for the full effect go direct. X marks the spot through the roof. Initial climbing is nearly unprotected and a little tricky up to the roof. (Note, this is not the same as Whiskey Straight Up, which is 15' to the left.) Good pro at the base of the roof and a solid but blindly placed, mid-sized stopper 1/2 way through the crux roof will get you safely to a hands free butt jam at the lip. 15 more feet of thoughtful but well-protected climbing puts you at the traditional belay stance below a small clean roof. The next pitch is a don't miss, 5.9+, finger crack classic. It will keep you on your toes all the way to the next belay. Pro is good on this pitch. From here it is possible to finish up the final head wall to the left of the Whiskey finish at about 8+, or traverse off left and scramble down the 'trough'. It is also possible to simply rap the route back to the base.

Starts about 15ft right of

The Jackal

, and heads straight up the face to the first pitch chains used for

The Jackal

.

The first pitch heads up the left-most corner on the sun deck.  At the small roof head right towards a two bolt anchor.  Once there, traverse right and up easy climbing towards the offwidth.  Up the OW and to the anchors.  Walk off or rap down.

Whiskey Crack is an absolute classic and one of the original Taylor Canyon testpieces. In my day, if you could lead Whiskey Crack, you had arrived.

The climbing of crux pitch involves steep technical face climbing and thin crack work over small wired pro. The tendency is to try to snug into the v groove for security, but the key is to stay on the outside. This is a stellar route.

Start up

Zig Zag

until the BD #2 cam is placed, then bust right and follow the seam in the beginning of Bourbon Street. Follow the closed seam through the R-rated territory, which is the easiest part of the route, to a good placement and the beginning of the hard climbing. From here, pull some 5.11 moves that lead to a excellent finger crack.

This is the route that goes out of the right side of the big roof.  Locate a bolt about 20 feet off the ground on the right wall of the amphitheater.  A decent yellow Alien placement can be had about 5 feet up to protect the challenging lower crux right off the ground.  Past this bolt you can get a bomber nut and then fire left, clipping bolts to the top.  You might want a finger sized piece for the top.

This route is very solid at 5.11 but also features classic, thin and technical climbing.

The first 40-50 feet or so require small pro placements, and then the crack widens and takes bigger pro.  Follow this seam/crack to the chains at the top of Jackel.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Parking Lot Wall