North Milk Creek Glacier

South Ridge

Jefferson Park Glacier

Center Ridge

From Jefferson Park ascend scree slopes above timberline to the start of the Jefferson Park Glacier. Head more or less up the middle of the glacier as crevasses will dictate the path. About two thirds of the way up the glacier the angle increases. Some parties may belay some short snow/ ice pitches. Weave around some larger crevasses as you head towards the bergschrund. It can be passed on either right or left side. Take warning: passing the bergschrund on the left side greatly increases the exposure to rock fall. Once above the bergschrund ascend a moderately  steep exposed snow slope until gaining the cinder ridge. Follow the rock ridge east towards the summit pinnacle. Two exposed pitches of OK rock (5.0) will get you to the final broad ridge and the summit pinnacle. The pinnacle is a few pitches of 4th class on shattered rock. The view on top is outstanding!   Most wise parties will descend the Whitewater Glacier back to Jefferson Park. Expect the climb to take between 4-6 hrs from timberline and the descent to take just as long via the Whitewater Glacier. Don't underestimate the length of the descent (long slog). Avoid descending the North Ridge.

A long moderate route better done with snow.   The crux is climbing the summit pinnacle from the Red Saddle.   Can be done in a long day but most people will want to take two.

approach from the west side off of the PCT.  follow the ridge that leads directly to the summit pinnacle.  in good conditions this is moderate snow and very good climbing.  The route is in the shade all morning.

Mt. Jefferson is the second highest peak in Oregon.   This beautiful mountain lies on the Cascade Crest, about 40 miles south of Mt. Hood, in the Mt. Jefferson Wilderness Area.   The Summit Pinnacle is 5.3 by the easiest route.

Description

Protection

Routes in Mt. Jefferson