This is the bolted face to the right of Rocket In My Pocket on the North face of the Monolith. Although it's pretty short, it's sustained and balancey right up the the crux. Good body positioning and a love of crimping will get you to the business: an off-balance, mean little punch to a good edge. Have fun trying not to pump out while pulling onto the slab above.

Future Shock

Rocket in My Pocket

Lardbutt

Lower North Face

Cataract Corner

The crux is the high step getting to the third bolt. This is probably the best 10d at the monument.

This is a short and powerful sport route up the N face of the Monolith. There is some loose or hollow rock on the route, but over the years, since the late 90's, nothing significant has come off so it is pretty solid. Long moves to start followed by powerful movement on small holds up the butt feature.

Start by stemming up a left facing corner formed by the wall and an adjacent block. Traverse left onto the face with some very long reaches and up to a point just below the butt feature. This first bit is very physical but on pretty good holds. Move in the roof with some underclings then up the short left facing corner/arete feature with hard moves off of much smaller holds. Finish this section with a tough move to a perfect 4 finger square knob at the top of the corner. From this point a few long but easier moves that require good foot work take you to the top and the anchors.

This route ascends the leftmost route on the North Face of The Monolith.  To access this climb, as soon as the trail from the parking lot "gets" to the monolith, instead of taking the trail over a narrow gap (which is actually a bridge, but you can't tell), head up and over a 4th class 6 foot boulder on the right.  Step over a gap to the left to find a belay bolt, and some very closely spaced bolts just above a belay anchor which is bolted in a waist level to the rock you are standing on.

Climb through a very crimpy first six bolts to a final confusing crux.  Pull out to the left after the crux, and you will find a last bolt in the slab above that you really don't need, and will do nothing but cause problems if someone else wants to top rope.

This was an aid ladder, and can still be aided at 5.6 C1.

This is the obvious bolted arete that soars up above and to the right of the North Face routes on the Monolith. It involves intricate and sustained 5.11 sequences  to a rest below a great crux boulder problem on the arete, involving creative heelhooking and some long spans. It might be easier for taller climbers. The runouts above the crux are very manageable. A bit soft for the grade, but very involved. A must do!

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in North Face