Start by gaining the belay ledge, either by rappelling in or climbing up 20' from the forest floor. Walk On Water and Phylynx share the same start. After the “5.10” bulge, wander to the right towards the independent line of bolts, near the Mind Games chimney. Things start out innocently enough with Walk On Water. There’s some nice edges and feet at opportune times. At a small bulge in the route, things start to get difficult. The remaining 20 to 25 feet the climbing is intense with few breaks in the action. Lots of deadpoints to small crimps. Not as classic as Phylynx but fun nonetheless.

Walk on Water

Sky Walker

Wizard

Mind Games

Eye in the Sky

Grub

Phylynx

This is a steep, thin face that finishes with a small finger crack. A very high quality climb by Rocky Butte standards. Shortly after leaving the belay anchor at the base of Mind Games, a 5.10 bulge needs needs to be climbed. At this point you'll be at the base of the headwall. For me the crux was the last 10' of face moves leading up to the crack. A sequence of enduro balance side-pull and crimping that left me out of gas for the easier moves after I reached the crack.

A nice long climb that combines portions of two severely neglected climbs, Walk On Water & Eye In The Sky, into one enjoyable pitch. Begin Sky Walker from the 20 foot anchor at the base of Mind Games. Start as per Walk On Water by climbing over the 5.10 bulge. Keep trending left past Phylynx to get to the arête. Climb straight up the fun headwall/arête until reaching an anchor just below the lip. Sky Walker is a safe lead at a moderate grade, which is something of a rarity at the Quarry. After some investigating, it appears that this hybrid route had not been freed. If you know otherwise, please let me know. 

Wander up Mind Games until you get to a big ledge about halfway up the cliff. There’s a roof just above you at this point. This is where Wizard diverges from Mind Games. Cut right by underclinging the roof until you reach a juggy crack. Follow the angling crack until it peters out. Tricky face climbing and some arête slapping will take you the last twenty feet to the top.

Mind Games is one of the most unique routes at Rocky Butte. A good introduction to the world of off-width climbing. I think more people would climb it if it were widely known how to access the area. Start by gaining the belay ledge, either by rappelling in or climbing up 20' from the forest floor. Ascend an easy, blocky start up to the chimney. Stem and grunt up the large flaring chimney before making a tricky exit move below the anchor.

Starts on a ledge, about 40 feet up from the ground, with a pair of chain anchors. These anchors are shared with the large crack of Grub to the left. You make your way up the ledge, then around the large bulge which is the crux of the route. Then make your way leftward over to the arete. Continue up to the tree or chain anchorsSkywalker utilizes the upper half of this route and offers a more natural feeling route. The only distinctive difference of Eye in the Sky is the bulge crux.

Also known as God Monster in the Rocky Butte Quarry guidebook. This starts at the Eye in the Sky lower anchors and up the left-facing wide crack. Getting through the split rock bulge is the burly crux. After the crux, continue onto a dirty wide ledge with a tree. Then up a short section to the top where the Skywalker tree anchor lives.

This is a tall, clean section of rock inbetween Bill's Buttress and the Far East Wall. It is somewhat neglected due to the less-than-obvious access to the wall. Nice thing about Wizard Wall is that it stays dry when when the rest of the Butte is wet. There are several good routes on this wall that are well worth rappelling in to. Phylynx and Mind Games being the standouts.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in f. Wizard Wall