Climb a dihedral with compressed stemming moves, to a small roof move, and then straight to the chains. Miniscule holds; finger strength is not a factor, but flexibility and full-body stem moves required.

Hooch

Canadian Club

Yo Marlo

Homebrew

White Lightning

Drunk on Choss

Hip Flask

Stay on the arete at the start, work into a scoop, step up left, and follow the bolt line up the face to the anchor.  Depending on how you tackle the start and what line you take up high, the crux could be considered to be in either place.

Slightly tricky moves in the open book feature lead to a step right, then much easier jug-hauling to the top.

Crux is getting off the ground, the foot hold you stand on is total choss and might explode. You go up this thin pillar and then get on a nice chossy ledge. There is another crack above that eats gear and then you either go up the chossy roof or traverse right to the anchor of white lightning.

Tricky moves for the grade bring you up an arete and over a bit of a roof in a short distance.

There is a nice crack just right of the 10d, it ends about 12 feet off the ground where you transition into another crack to the left. From the end of the second crack you can wonder up and left getting a few horizontal nut placements then joining the anchor of the 10d climb. Climb is mildly chossy and falling in the second crack could dislodge some rock and murder your belayer.

Fun climbing in another dihedral. Straightforward stem and face moves on wide feet and jugs. Goes around the roof instead of pulling it.

Thin climbing on crimps down low leads to an easier finish

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Moonshine Wall