First pitch is very thin and unrelenting. Several cruxes throughout, one requiring standing up with one leg and no handholds to assist. And a vicious redpoint crux waiting to kill all your efforts. Take a no hands rest at the belay anchor and go for the top or break up into two pitches. Second half is much easier (5.10) but engaging, and a classic by itself. Difficult to grade, but possibly the hardest slab in the hills?

The Nightman Cometh

Joint Effort

Little Gremlins

Where You Been?!

Skid Marks

Going Down to Harlem with a Turd in My Shorts

Troll Toll

Pointy Little Devil

A couple hard moves get you to the first bolt, then a couple more and it eases off to the ledge.  From the ledge it starts out real steep and goes to slightly overhanging through the crux, which is getting to, and then past the obvious quartz 'eye' above and to the right.  Another 30 feet of sustained climbing (between great clipping stances) will take you to the 2nd big ledge.   

  From here it's classic crystals and knobs for 20 feet up and right to the rap anchors on the left. 

Joint effort starts up a low angle ramp like feature clipping bolts as you progress up. Get a nice break where the formation splits. Move up on the upper headwall arete. Great holds and well protected a great lead for someone breaking into this grade. Or just a great climb to end the day on with good views of Mt. Baldy

The first half of this route is "trad" going up two small finger/hand cracks (layback) stacked on each other (see photo).  Above the top crack there are two bolts -- well placed, but far enough apart to give the route a little bit of a spice feel.  Above the second bolt, one can also clip the anchors to the route on the right (Skid Marks, 5.10) as one more piece of protection before going the last 12 feet to the Gremlin anchors.  I enjoyed the "mixed" feel of the route going from trad layback cracks to face climbing on crystals.

A bouldery hard start leads to nice easier crystal pinching up high.  Well protected and fun, despite the name this is a good route.

This climb doesn't look like much but offers a nice fun moderate 5.8 climb. The holds up top are right where you need them and not where you want them same with the bolts. It is bolted very well you just have to keep an eye out for the holds. It does help to bring 3 long or alpine quickdraws the first 3 bolts zig zag and have a few flakes to go around. Once pass this part move up through a small bulge onto the face. Finish on perfectly spaced bolts on a fun face with good white crystals to pinch and grab. Crux to me was the upper section there is one more that you really have to trust your feet. Other than that enjoy a nice moderate. 60m can get you down just watch your ends as there isn't much "extra."

Long and involved. Starts with 5.9 gear climbing then three stacked cruxes (on bolts) high on an exposed face. Finishes with 5.10 slab to a nice belay ledge.

From the climber's check in, head left down the trail. After going about 40 feet, turn right and then scramble up some boulders. After going up the boulders for about 20 feet the route will be about 15 feet on your right. Protection: 11 quickdraws plus an additional two for the anchors. Thirteen draws total.

 Begin by climbing up the north ramp to a bolt. Fun, delicate climbing on the face and arete with well-placed bolts. Excellent summit!

secluded area with short but steep scramble approach.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Shakers