From the low belay ledge in the Bat Cave (access the Bat Cave and follow a fixed line below the terraces to get to this ledge). Climb up and right to a bolt on the slab. Altetrnatly one could start on Trojan Horse and move up to the "1st" bolt after 3 or 4 clips on Trojan Horse. Diagonal up right to the big flake. Climb this to its top, move slightly right and ascend the clean face above. Do a final cool mantel move to finish and clip the anchors. There is a pitch above the chains moving right which is the climb Jornada Del Muerto.

The Big Flake

[Redacted]

Old Man Direct

Enemy T

99 Problems

The Technician

Old Man and The Sea(ka) (1st Pitch)

99 Problems But a Pinch Ain't One

Funkmaster Afro Groove

Bella Donna (1st Pitch)

Helsinki

Bella Donna

Serenity

Morning Commute

The Dragon Reborn

Old Man and the Sea (ka)

Jornada Del Muerto

Public Enemy

Mudbone

The Funk

Titanaboa

Nate Dog

Hide & Seek(a)

Climb 99 Problems and continue past the first anchor.  Bear down on a hard boulder problem revolving around a small two finger pinch. Finish at the second anchor.

The direct start for Midget Proof offers thin crimping through several boulder problems until it joins Midget Proof at the sixth bolt.  Climb easily past the first three bolts to a thin crimping warmup section to the 4th bolt.  Grab one last good shake and launch into powerful thin section, clip the fixed fifth bolt, grab a quick shake and head into the crux, probably a V6 boulder problem.  Afterwards obtain the choss huecos of Midget Proof, rummage through for the good solid holds and pull the final reachy moves out the roof. 

  An alternate 12b sequence exists if you head hard left at the 5th bolt to join Midget Proof earlier and skip the V6 crux.

Climb the white face straight into Old Man and the Seaka 1st pitch.  The crux is where the two climbs merge.  Climbs better than the original line IMO.

Start on the second bolt line from the back of the cave (left side), climb up to a 2 finger pocket and then straight up to a good rest at the roof. Then move left to a good ledge, and finish with a hard crux to the anchors of "midget proof"

Start on the ledge below the Bat Cave.  Climb to the right of the black streak but to the left of the big flake.  Follow the line of bolts through some fantastic face climbing and a thin crux. Finish at the first anchor.

Start on the a techie slab and work your way up to a massive jug. Then spread eagle the 2 cracks up to more technical face climbing, and end with a few juggy moves from the pod to the big hole up and left.

The route is a left to right traverse across the right side wall of the cave.  There's a crimpy big move crux between the 4th and 5th clip to a good rest at a huge undercling pod, than another big move over the bulge, followed by a few more moves on great holds to a mid anchor smack dab in the middle of the cave.  This route is a great warm up pitch and will eventually serve as an easy start to routes continuing up and out of the cave.

Pull off the ground with some difficulty (may want to stick clip) to easier ledgy low angle climbing that trends steadily leftwards.  After the traverse enter an awesome section with some Tufa holds up to the mid-anchors.

From the finish of Bella Donna, head straight up into a stout 10 move boulder problem. I think it's solid 14b, maybe a touch harder, but I find it to be a style that's difficult to objectively grade. I hope more people try it, let me know what you think.

This approach pitch is the easiest route in the cave proper.  Climb up low angle tufa flow rock for 7 bolts to the mid-anchor.  There are a few techy moves well above the last bolt that may warrant consideration if 5.9 is your limit.  A long sling placed on the last bolt will mitigate this. 

  Watch out for loose holds.

Do the first hard boulder on public enemy, and then at the third bolt  veer left in to a compression dependent crux ending on a flat sloppy ledge. Bust in to the second crux on sloppy crimps to the chest plate. Then climb up and left to the anchors of "midget proof" before finishing "serenity".

The first half of this route is technical slab for 7 bolts(5.9) ( As of4\12\13 this mid way has its own anchor.). After you clip the first fixed draw the climbing becomes steeper as you start the first of 3 bouldery sections, with good rests between them. This climb has surprisingly good holds for the grade and the difficulty comes from its relatively sustained nature. There is a lot of glue on this one, but in my opinion the quality of the movement makes this worth the effort.

Climb "Midget Proof", then continue up the center of the cave with some out of the box beta into a few really fun dynamic moves to the anchors of "The Technician".

A left leaning line with a crux about halfway up.  This is the first route to be climbed in the cave proper following a line of good horizontal edges in a diagonal line out the left side.  The route traverses from right to left gradually gaining height trending upward to a low anchor before the cave really steepens. A good warm up.

What The Funk? Another great route with no glue on it. We thought this was going to be the hard line into Bens route, but it turns out its easier than The Funk.  Start on a Hueco at Head height, followed by a juggy undercling.  Climb six bolts of powerful climbing to the undercling crux and join The Funk for the last two bolts.

The extension of Mudbone, climb up the slab in to the black tufas and out the roof. Then climb left though the roof into the big hole in the roof to clip the anchors.

5.11d to a no hands knee bar then two boulders problems with a good but hard to match rest in between them. I thought this had harder moves then Bella Dona, but was much less sustained.

Climb the "Big Flake" route to the anchors, here instead of clipping the anchors, clip the bolt a few feet right, and pull a insecure move to a good hold and the next bolt.  Pull the crux moves involving a small crimp and undercling and punch up to a clipping jug.  Rest up here and head up to the anchors with several bolts of 12- climbing to one more technical crux just before the anchors. 

  Named after the Jornado Del Muerto portion of the El Camino Real trail that passes behind the Caballo Mountains.  Loosely translates to "Single Day's Journey of the Dead Man", for the many people who died traversing the barren region.

The crux hits you at the third bolt with a throw from a undercling to a two finger pocket (v10). Rest up to throw yourself at a awesome sideways dyno (v8) followed by another side dyno (v6) to massive jug. Rest up for a finale tecky  boulder problem (v9).

Climb the obvious black streak on the right edge of the cave. Technical moves with a big dyno about mid-way to anchors where the black streak gets thinner. If you're feeling it, keep going to the next set of anchors in the top of the roof to do The Dragon Reborn

A hard move right off the ground leads to several bolts of consistent crimping. After a decent rest move in to the single hardest move on the route, a big move to a small and slopey three finger crimp, and and another, smaller throw to a ok jug. From this rest its all big moves on big holds to the top.

The extension of Nate Dog, this climb works up a big vertical flake up to a hard sprint to the end of powerful face climbing.

Start up Morning Commute till you can reach right to the huge juggy hole, head up, big moves on incut crimpers to a cool rock over sequence that puts you a few moves form the anchor

Dispite the name there is no glue on this route link-up. It makes a great option for 5.11 climbers seeking shade in the afternoon and provides another "easy" warm-up alternative for cave climbers. Start low in the cave on Old Man Direct. Climb the first 9 bolts to that routes crux. Clip the chain draw here or the hanger to the right (or both). Now move right on the foot ledge with some side pull punch holds. Continue on a diagonal line up to the Morning Commute anchors. Lots of fun holds on this one.

The main cave itself. The cave starts about 30 feet above the ground and is maybe 100 feet tall capped by a triangular shaped roof as big as 30 feet in places. This is a very spectacular looking cave with great looking rock. Most of the routes are going to be very difficult if they go to the top of the wall. Timmy F, Marc Beverly and John Kear have done the vast majrity of work preparing the routes in the cave. Only a few of the routes have been climbed to low anchors in the 5.12 range. There are a couple of lines on the left that could be 5.13's and the rest seem as though they will be harder. Please respect the effort that these individuals have put into the cave and give them an opportunity to climb the routes that they have put a lot of effort into.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Bat Cave